Espar is Apart... missing screen? Help Vic!

M

Missouri Blue

Member
So I've read all the espar threads and decided to take my Espar out to repair it (it has not worked since I've owned the van: 2+ years). A 1"x1" "sharkbite" brass elbow from Home Depot worked perfectly to complete the coolant loop while the espar is out of the Sprinter... no kinks in the hoses and perfect fit in the coolant lines.

1) The espar is in piece and I need some help. I've read about the screen deteriorating in the "D" shaped glow-pin hole. It seems that my screen is gone and the hole is open. Is there only one hole within the "D" shaped chamber or two? The pictures try to show the exposed hole, where only mesh remains stuck to the metal around the hole. Vic do you have any more nickel mesh?

2) I tested the fan/blower with a 9-volt battery and it worked. I tried to test the glow-pin as well... I hooked the positive to the black wired terminal and the negative to the white. The glow-pin got hot after 10 seconds, but not too hot to touch. Does this indicate that the glow-pin is functioning but just not enough power from the 9v battery or time to bring the glow-pin up to operating temperature? Or is the glow-pin not working as it is supposed to?

I can source the gaskets and the glow-pin (if I need one) locally from thermo-king, but need to take care of the deteriorated screen problem first.

These pictures will probably be meaningless unless you have looked intently at this part of the espar before. Without some frame of reference they are pretty abstract.

Thanks.
 

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teamprovan

New member
Ours looks like yours except the lower part of the screen is a little cleaner. Try spraying carb cleaner in there, it cleaned ours up.

Our glow plug reacted the same as yours when attached to a 9V battery.
 

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2

220629

Well-known member
Missouri Blue said:
So I've read all the espar threads and decided to take my Espar out to repair it (it has not worked since I've owned the van: 2+ years). A 1"x1" "sharkbite" brass elbow from Home Depot worked perfectly to complete the coolant loop while the espar is out of the Sprinter... no kinks in the hoses and perfect fit in the coolant lines.
Click to expand...
Nice to know. :thumbup:

Missouri Blue said:
1) The espar is in piece and I need some help. I've read about the screen deteriorating in the "D" shaped glow-pin hole. It seems that my screen is gone and the hole is open. Is there only one hole within the "D" shaped chamber or two? The pictures try to show the exposed hole, where only mesh remains stuck to the metal around the hole. Vic do you have any more nickel mesh?
Click to expand...
I have more mesh and you are welcome to have some. That said, some of the burners come with the screen wick only surrounding the hole in the D chamber. One Espar expert which I spoke with indicated that he often punches a hole in the screen if one isn't there. Apparently when the screen covers the hole it can soot up sooner. I believe he said that making the hole buys a bit more time between cleanings.

Missouri Blue said:
2) I tested the fan/blower with a 9-volt battery and it worked. I tried to test the glow-pin as well... I hooked the positive to the black wired terminal and the negative to the white. The glow-pin got hot after 10 seconds, but not too hot to touch. Does this indicate that the glow-pin is functioning but just not enough power from the 9v battery or time to bring the glow-pin up to operating temperature? Or is the glow-pin not working as it is supposed to?
...
Click to expand...
The 9 volt battery test just checks basic function. It doesn't have enough power to make the glow pin come up to operating temperature. If it gets warm then the resistance heating element is intact and it should be fine.

Missouri Blue said:
These pictures will probably be meaningless unless you have looked intently at this part of the espar before. Without some frame of reference they are pretty abstract.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Once you see the heater apart in person it does make more sense.

Not that you asked...

I would re-assemble the heater and give it a test. The screen only needs to break the fuel up into small segments to allow the heat of the glow pin to light it off. Further fiddling with the screen may create more issues than it resolves.

vic
 
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Oilburner

Oilburner

2004 2500 140"cargo l/r x 2
Your plug contact pins are dirty, clean it with something, like contact cleaner, it will help.
Screen looked same when I opened mine. So I think it is normal.
 

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M

Missouri Blue

Member
I bought the gaskets, carb cleaner, and electrical cleaner. I also got an o-ring to go between the "flame chamber" and the "coolant chamber". How do I separate these two pieces so I can clean any corrosion caused by coolant, etc?

Thanks
 
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220629

Well-known member
Missouri Blue said:
I bought the gaskets, carb cleaner, and electrical cleaner. I also got an o-ring to go between the "flame chamber" and the "coolant chamber". How do I separate these two pieces so I can clean any corrosion caused by coolant, etc?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Any surface corrosion seals them together a bit. They just pop apart. Tapping the steel surface lightly with a hammer will probably cause them to pop.

Before disturbing that seal I would inspect inside the hose connections. I suppose if things are still in question you could pull the control sensor to look in that hole.

The hose fittings looked so good inside on mine that I preferred not to disturb the combustion chamber water seals. YMMV.

vic
 
Oilburner

Oilburner

2004 2500 140"cargo l/r x 2
Please look at my pictures- it is really easy solution. Use quality steel eye bolt with nut and washer, piece of heavy gauge steel with hole to put it trough. Clamp vise grips at the end of fins. There were pictures by another forum member with complete set up, but can't find it. My attempt failed-you might have luck with it. It is stuck due to extreme heat caused by non working auxiliary electric pump.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30721&page=2

Edit: found pictures of this :
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13458&highlight=espar+leaks&page=2
 
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M

Missouri Blue

Member
I have a bunch of copper-colored build up that I can see through the hose holes and the sensor holes... but I cannot get the two pieces to "pop" apart. Thanks for the link to the pics oilburner... might go that route if necessary.

Since I haven't had a coolant leak I should probably leave it alone and put it back together and see if the heater even works.

Any suggestions for cleaning out the coolant crud without separating the two pieces?
 
Oilburner

Oilburner

2004 2500 140"cargo l/r x 2
If is not leaking- I would not disturb it.
I had mine dipped for 36 hours in..vinegar. Vinegar will eat all water deposits, calcium and other crap. Then rinse with water.
That's all!
 
N

nekit

Member
Missouri Blue and others where did you get your gaskets? I'm need to get some for my heater cleaning.
Thanks,
Rob
 
M

Missouri Blue

Member
I went to ThermoKing... there is one in Kansas City. The gasket was $4 more than esparparts.com but at least I could see it and knew I was getting the correct ones.

I paid $19 for the gasket set and $4 for the o-ring that I won't be needing.
 
N

nekit

Member
Missouri Blue said:
I went to ThermoKing... there is one in Kansas City. The gasket was $4 more than esparparts.com but at least I could see it and knew I was getting the correct ones.

I paid $19 for the gasket set and $4 for the o-ring that I won't be needing.
Click to expand...
Does Thermoking use Espar part #'s. Espar parts wants $13 shipping on $15 gaskets. Think I'll visit my local ThermoKing.
Thanks,
Rob
 
M

Missouri Blue

Member
Here are Thermo King's part numbers:

gaskets: 83-360 (@ $19) (espar: 201820990001)
o-ring: 83-319 (@$4) (espar: 221000700002)
glow pin:84-1059 (@$130) (espar: 252106011000)

I did not need a glow pin/plug but had them look up the part # anyway. Also, I will not be using the o-ring either.
 
M

Mortarsprayer

Member
The parts are less expensive than the time moving the heater in and out. replace it all, the screen, the gasket and the glow plug. On our case it was the thermocouple that went bad.

It is pure luxury now that the booster is working.

Good luck.1
Nolan


Missouri Blue said:
So I've read all the espar threads and decided to take my Espar out to repair it (it has not worked since I've owned the van: 2+ years). A 1"x1" "sharkbite" brass elbow from Home Depot worked perfectly to complete the coolant loop while the espar is out of the Sprinter... no kinks in the hoses and perfect fit in the coolant lines.

1) The espar is in piece and I need some help. I've read about the screen deteriorating in the "D" shaped glow-pin hole. It seems that my screen is gone and the hole is open. Is there only one hole within the "D" shaped chamber or two? The pictures try to show the exposed hole, where only mesh remains stuck to the metal around the hole. Vic do you have any more nickel mesh?

2) I tested the fan/blower with a 9-volt battery and it worked. I tried to test the glow-pin as well... I hooked the positive to the black wired terminal and the negative to the white. The glow-pin got hot after 10 seconds, but not too hot to touch. Does this indicate that the glow-pin is functioning but just not enough power from the 9v battery or time to bring the glow-pin up to operating temperature? Or is the glow-pin not working as it is supposed to?

I can source the gaskets and the glow-pin (if I need one) locally from thermo-king, but need to take care of the deteriorated screen problem first.

These pictures will probably be meaningless unless you have looked intently at this part of the espar before. Without some frame of reference they are pretty abstract.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
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