SHOWER INSTALL
The addition of a fixed interior shower has been one of the true luxuries of my van build. It gets used on a regular basis following either a cold morning surf or a dusty and hot mountain bike ride. Following a bike ride both my indoor and outdoor showers can be in use simultaneously providing showers for everyone.
My original build layout did not include a fixed shower. Based on the factory dimensions I did not think it would fit in my 170. Once I had the actual van and began the layout it became evident that a fixed shower would fit. I had not accounted for the added room in the rear due to the curvature of the doors and the rear door window recesses. These items added almost 8” of bed length allowing me to place my Isotherm 195 fridge/freezer on the passenger side adjacent to my range top and still maintain a 78” long bed space.
Having the entire kitchen galley on the passenger side left sufficient room for a small fixed shower and some storage compartments on the driver’s side. I looked at using a shower pan between 24” and 30” long and 24” wide.
The dimensions of the Isotherm fridge, 22” deep, allowed it to fit tightly against the curved outer passenger side wall. It used almost 23” of floor space. I had 70” in van width to work with. I found a 24” wide shower pan that I mounted as close as possible to the driver’s side wall. The finished shower uses 25” of the van width leaving a generous 22” wide aisle.
I settled on a 24” wide by 27” long shower pan with a corner drain location. The corner drain was critical so as to avoid any conflicts with the frame rails. The corner drain exited just inside the frame rail.
ICON 00461 Shower Pan-Polar White, 27" x 24" x 4"
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NZVM34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ZxZSDbRAM5PVB
To support the walls of the shower I installed 1.5” aluminum angle between the factory roof crossmembers. The angle was notched at each crossmember and bolted using 5/16 rivnuts. This angle provided support for additional aluminum angle that would bolt directly to the 3/4 thick walls that would extend above the ceiling.
A similar process was followed on the wall using 1.5” aluminum angle to provide needed structural backing to the shower walls. Thin foam was inserted at most of the metal to metal contact points to minimize any possible squeaks. I installed a total of three 3/4” wall panels, two for the shower and one for the storage compartments. Once assembled the combination of 3/4” wall panels and aluminum angle provided a very rigid system.
1.5” aluminum angle was also used to attach the wall panels to the floor. The profile of the shower pan would conceal the aluminum angle. I notched the wall panels to allow the shower pan lip to recess into the wall. The rear wall panel was notched to allow it to overlap the rear wheel well slightly. The Isotherm fridge also overlaps the wheel well by about 1”.
The drain hole through the floor is 3” in diameter to accommodate the small RV style drain trap. This smaller drain only required a 2” hole in the shower pan. The pan was glued to the floor and walls using construction adhesive. The lip of the shower pan was temporarily held in place either with screws or wood braces until the glue dried.
JR Products 95195 Exterior Evacuation Drain Trap
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0095TEE86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XXZSDb7G79EPF
The aluminum braces added to the outer van wall and ceiling provided backing for a 1/8” thick wood sheathing. Holes were drilled in the wood panel to align with any bolt heads so that the panel was totally flush. Shims were also added as needed to the walls to provide a solid backing. At the top I glued in tapered shims that would provide about 1” of space for the factory wiring to pass. Construction adhesive was used to attach the curved 1/8” wall panel. Multiple cross braces held the panel in place while the glue set.
The outside wall cavities were filled with Thinsulate up to 3+ inches thick prior to installing the wood panels.
The final steps involved the installation of the fiberglass reinforced plastic, FRP, panels from Home Depot. To make the panels fit neatly required that they be installed in the correct order, ceiling first, followed by the back wall, and finally the side walls. At each step the appropriate edge trim was installed to fit snugly against adjacent panels. Four LED lights were incorporated into the ceiling panel.
FRP glue was used to attach the FRP panels. Wood bracing held each successive panel in place while the glue set. The wall panels all overlapped the top of the shower pan. This gap was also caulked with silicone.
The door panel surround consisted of glued up 3/4 maple that was notched to fit snugly over the wall ply edges and the shower pan lip. The backside of the door surround was also covered with FRP. The FRP edge trim of the previously installed FRP wall panel fit tightly against the door surround once installed. The door surround is help in place with stainless square drive deck screws so the heads are barely noticeable. The door surround can also be easily removed to assist in the removal of the Isotherm fridge if needed.
I also routed the edge so the final FRP edge trim fit flush with the maple door surround.
I initially planned a shower door but realized the door would be a nuisance potentially blocking the aisle way. Instead I installed a simple compression shower rod from Home Depot and a high quality shower curtain.
Eforcurtain Bath Stall Size 36 by 72-inch Heavy Duty Fabric Shower Curtain, Waterproof Bathroom Curtain Hotel, Pure White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OMRKVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_DB0SDbB1F8W11
The shower valve is an Ambassador Marine valve that has both temperature and volume control. Many shower fixtures now days do not have volume control due to low flow shower heads. The valve is mounted in a Penn-Elcom 3x5” recessed plate. The quick disconnects are from US Plastics. I used the same components for my rear door shower.
I mounted the shower valve up high enough to avoid hitting it with my elbow or arm. I use a Camco flexible shower head with shutoff valve on both showers. This allows me to set the volume and temperature once and use the shower head to turn on/off the water to minimize waste.
Hot water is provided by my Isotemp 15 liter Spa marine water heater. The heater can reach over 200F but uses a mixing valve to provide up to 30 liters of hot water. The water is heated by one of three methods, the engine coolant, an Espar D5, or 120 volt AC.
Ambassador Marine Aidack Hot/Cold Shut Off Valve/Mixer, Chrome
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TIAJ0YA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_7G0SDb2DSV0AZ
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=27849&catid=926
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=27863&catid=926
Camco 43714 Shower Head Kit with On/Off Switch and 60" Flexible Shower Hose (White)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OAG63G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_fU0SDb907KGAN
This shower build may be more involved than what many will want to take on. I wanted to maximize the shower space while occupying as little floor space as possible. This required making the most of the curved outer walls. Wider at the bottom and narrower at the top. Very roomy in my opinion for a shower and just enough room lengthwise to fit/use our Thetford Curve toilet for night duty.
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