Yet another jacking question

220629

Well-known member
Vic, following manufacturer's safety recommendations should not be construed as "Fearmongering."
Suggesting that the factory tire change jack points are the only "safe" place to bear a jack...

I have, as well you and others, have lifted many vehicle's from the pumpkin without damage. However, in my case, the vehicle's were much older and more stoutly constructed in contrast to today's vehicle constructed and scaled to reduced weight.
Supporting data? (Pun intended.)
Documented examples of damaged Sprinter axle tubes?

Many pumpkins now have plastic covers.
...
Sprinters don't.


There's at least one post documenting a pumpkin leaking as a result of a tire shop lifting at the pumpkin.
Again.

Yes Sprinters are damaged by people using incorrect jacking methods.

Shock mounts are damaged, body metal gets damaged, front structures get bent/metal tearing by not using blocking, differential covers get bent to the point of leaking because proper pads aren't used, etc., etc. All that stuff happens because the correct locations are not selected and proper methods aren't applied.
...
Video was certainly informative but too fast paced for my low bandwidth visual cortex. So, I took screen shots of the alternative lifting points.
NCV3FrameJackPoint.jpg

The takeaway from your second screen grab should be that if using a floor jack with padded cup, the frame rails are perfectly fine to jack against to lift a Sprinter... not to imply that there aren't many other industry standard safe choices too.

To repeat.
Mercedes has a very specific list for where NOT TO jack a Sprinter when using a floor jack. Of course that list isn't all inclusive. They specify not jacking against axle tubes. If the differential case is a problem wouldn't it make sense for them to include that along with the axle tube comment? It is all the same assembly.

Jack as you wish. Carry on.

:cheers: vic
 
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flylikeabanana

New member
I remembered I had a grinding bit for the dremel. I was incredulous that the little guy would do it and it took a pretty decent amount of time but I managed to shave down enough to fit after about 20 minutes or so and shaved me a trip to the shop. Going to echo pfflyer's success here, thanks Bob!
 

white whale

Active member
and one more.... is there a front jack point in the middle to use the OE bottle jack to get both front wheels off the ground and then bring back onto proper stands to support.
 
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220629

Well-known member
and one more.... is there a front jack point in the middle to use the OE bottle jack to get both front wheels off the ground and then bring back onto proper stands to support.
Absolutely not.

I use a 3" x 4" hardwood block to bridge the front cross beam flanges when I lift using a floor jack. Even with a hardwood block a bottle jack is not safe in that position.

:2cents: vic
 

marklg

Well-known member
Here is what I have found to be the best for me:

For the rear, I put a floor jack under the three sides of the metal frame member supporting the spring shackle and a tall jackstand under the curved piece it fits.

Rear_Jack_Points.jpg

In the front, a floor jack under the frame behind the wheels:

Front_Floor_Jack.jpg

And a tall jackstand under the curved piece it fits in front of the wheels:

Front_Jackstand.jpg

I also add RV jacks to other places on the frame just for belts and suspenders.

https://www.campingworld.com/ultra-stacker-jacks-set-of-4-85164.html

I have a total of 5 things holding it up, two jackstands, two RV jacks and the floor jack whenever I am under the vehicle.

Regards,

Mark
 
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autostaretx

Erratic Member
For those that don't recognize them ...

Mark's "jackstand" points are where MB says to position the bottle jack.

His "floor jack" points are where MB says to position a four-point lift:

LiftPoints.jpg

--dick (who prefers cardboard under his back instead of just a tarp.. the gravel doesn't poke through)
 

marklg

Well-known member
For those that don't recognize them ...

Mark's "jackstand" points are where MB says to position the bottle jack.

His "floor jack" points are where MB says to position a four-point lift:

View attachment 115603

--dick (who prefers cardboard under his back instead of just a tarp.. the gravel doesn't poke through)
Absolutely right, but I found Mercedes explanation very hard to understand. They said you can use a floor jack but don't put it these places. They didn't say where you can put it. After a lot of head scratching, I put them in those places but it was very difficult to determine if it was consistent with their recommendations.

Regards,

Mark
 

220629

Well-known member
Absolutely right, but I found Mercedes explanation very hard to understand. They said you can use a floor jack but don't put it these places. They didn't say where you can put it. After a lot of head scratching, I put them in those places but it was very difficult to determine if it was consistent with their recommendations.

Regards,

Mark
I suspect that it relates mostly to legal implications.

In my experience there are many, many suitable places to jack up a vehicle, but what is appropriate and safe can change with conditions/situations. Experience and common sense can go a long way.

In over 8 years of ownership I have yet to use the OEM tire change jack points or the OEM tire change jack for lifting my Sprinters. The OEM tire change jack fixtures are tool specific and don't necessarily lend themselves for use with a roll around floor jack or the jack stands which I use.

:2cents: vic
 

Rock Doc

Active member
Having just read this thread (and a useful one it is), I recently purchased a Sprinter jack on eBay for my Jeep. The Sprinter jack has a 24” lift (great for my heavily modified and lifted Jeep), and in many situations is safer than using a HiLift jack. The Sprinter jack I received was complete with the entire tool kit (including the threaded recovery eyelet, screwdriver, wrenches and tire tool in the cloth bag), and even included the mounting bracket—which was useful for securing in my Jeep. It looked as if it had never been used. It was about $128 including delivery charge, compared with $238 to order it from Mother Benz. Actually, not a bad price for a unique premium jack. (It’s definitely above Harbor Freight quality!)

Seeing this thread mentioning that many work trucks have missing tire changing tools, I wonder how many of the eBay Sprinter jacks may have been pilfered to supply the eBay market... ��

Rock Doc
2014 Pleasureway Plateau TS in 2013 Sprinter 3500
 

marklg

Well-known member
Having just read this thread (and a useful one it is), I recently purchased a Sprinter jack on eBay for my Jeep. The Sprinter jack has a 24” lift (great for my heavily modified and lifted Jeep), and in many situations is safer than using a HiLift jack. The Sprinter jack I received was complete with the entire tool kit (including the threaded recovery eyelet, screwdriver, wrenches and tire tool in the cloth bag), and even included the mounting bracket—which was useful for securing in my Jeep. It looked as if it had never been used. It was about $128 including delivery charge, compared with $238 to order it from Mother Benz. Actually, not a bad price for a unique premium jack. (It’s definitely above Harbor Freight quality!)

Seeing this thread mentioning that many work trucks have missing tire changing tools, I wonder how many of the eBay Sprinter jacks may have been pilfered to supply the eBay market... ��

Rock Doc
2014 Pleasureway Plateau TS in 2013 Sprinter 3500
Check it out before you need it. Mine looks never used, but it didn't compress back down without help.

Regards,

Mark
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
Check it out before you need it. Mine looks never used, but it didn't compress back down without help.

Regards,

Mark
My van’s jack doesn’t self retract either, which I’ve always written down to its design... Are they meant to self retract?
 

Rock Doc

Active member
Check it out before you need it. Mine looks never used, but it didn't compress back down without help.

Regards,

Mark
Already used it a couple of times. It works fine! However, a friend who also has one for his Jeep has to keep a strap around his to keep it from auto-extending when it’s stowed.

Rock Doc
2014 Pleasureway Plateau TS in 2013 Sprinter 3500
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
Not completely, but they retract less easily if they are at all air bound. If there isn't any trapped air they stay compressed well.

:cheers: vic
Already used it a couple of times. It works fine! However, a friend who also has one for his Jeep has to keep a strap around his to keep it from auto-extending when it’s stowed.
Sounds like your friend needs to top up his fluid?
Mine stays down once it's compressed, but it does take a solid push to put the piston down...

-dave
 
Is there a problem with using a floor jack under the Curt receiver hitch to lift the back of the van to change or rotate the tires? Our van (LTV Free Spirit) has the extra skirting around the bottom that makes accessing the factory jack points impossible with a floor jack. The factory jack will work for roadside repairs.
 

BrennWagon

He’s just this guy, you know?
Is there a problem with using a floor jack under the Curt receiver hitch to lift the back of the van to change or rotate the tires? Our van (LTV Free Spirit) has the extra skirting around the bottom that makes accessing the factory jack points impossible with a floor jack. The factory jack will work for roadside repairs.
That sounds like a bad idea to me. I’d check with the manufacturer of the RV to find out what they recommend or if the side skirting can be popped off for maintenance
 

220629

Well-known member
Is there a problem with using a floor jack under the Curt receiver hitch to lift the back of the van to change or rotate the tires? Our van (LTV Free Spirit) has the extra skirting around the bottom that makes accessing the factory jack points impossible with a floor jack. The factory jack will work for roadside repairs.
I personally would never jack against the trailer hitch. Just as a basic reference, the typical hitch tongue weight rating is 500#. The cross bar alone isn't up to the task of lifting the Sprinter. Not to mention any of the frame attachments.

If you're not willing to jack against the differential, with a padded floor jack you should be able to jack one side at a time using strong points and place jack stands under each side of the rear axle tubes.

MB advises against jacking/lifting against the axle tubes, but a jack stand placed under the axle tube in a static situation is fine. I would never jack against the axle tubes while in close to the differential using a floor jack. I will use a padded floor jack cup with the jack positioned out near the shock mount. (To lift one tire only.)

:2cents: vic
 

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
May have missed it in this thread, but in other threads, some poster suggested painting the various jack points.

Could do two colors in neon paint, one for the bottle jacks (jackstands too) and another color for the hoist (floorjacks too).
 

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