Koni Shock Install

sikwan

06 Tin Can
No Change, meaning it still works for me.

Although I only have ~40k miles on the shocks themselves.
 

bstory

New member
Re: Koni Shock Install - Update?

We installed Koni shocks on our 2006 140" SHC as soon as we bought it in 2009, based on this thread. We noticed a modest improvement but since we live down a gravel/dirt road that gets big potholes over the course of the seasons, we figured that was just the way the van was going to be.

The garage mechanic who installed them said he adjusted the shocks to full firm and then backed them off a turn or two, as I said we wanted them firm.

Now 50,000 miles later, it seems to me the van is rolling/swaying more than it did when the shocks first were installed. Stuff seems to fly around in the back more than it used to.

Would adjusting them now help with this? If so, what do people recommend, based on their own years of experience with the shocks and how they wear? Softer or firmer?

The van is built out for a camping conversion, but not carrying heavy loads except when we first set off on a long trip with a big load of beer, dog food, people food, etc... The swaying/rolling is not a problem on the highway, only bad at driveway-road intersections and bumps, potholes.

We had the van serviced recently by SprintGuy at the Mercedes dealership in Burlington MA and he replaced the "rear sway bar links and bushings," and noted that we had Konis, so I am sure he would have said if they were leaking. (BTW, I didn't know we had a sway bar - the rear suspension is stock OEM to the best of my knowledge, but perhaps this is just one name for what is there?)

What do the knowledgable suspension folks recommend we consider doing, if anything?

We realize one suggestion might be to just live with it because being 69 and 70 we are probably just feeling the motion more than when we were younger, tougher and more upright? Do you think it would help if we sit up straighter? Ha ha.
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
Re: Koni Shock Install - Update?

he replaced the "rear sway bar links and bushings,"
Depending on what he replaced it with, this could definitely affect the "side-to-side" over potholes ride (stiffer?).

If you're traveling down a gravel road, it would mean softening your suspension. One thing you didn't mention is your tire pressure. Maybe soften (50psi) that a bit since it's the easiest. Otherwise, softening the rear shocks are a lot easier than doing the fronts.

Another thing I notice on gravel roads, there's a certain "speed" sweet spot. I find increasing the speed a bit smooths out the ride. This speed is normally faster than what I want to do, but it takes care of the "unruliness" of the ride.

So if I had to pick...

1. Go faster (a bit). :smirk:
2. Adjust tire pressure (depending on load).
3. Adjust rear shocks (softer). This would affect the street.
 

bstory

New member
Thanks for your thoughts, Sikwan. Really appreciate it.

The links and bushings replacements were Mercedes OEM - the links were loose and he said they had to be replaced. The increase in roll/sway on bumps, potholes, driveway edges pre-dated this replacement. I didn't really notice much, if any change after the replacement.

What would be the effect of softening the rear shocks on highway driving? (Since there seem to be so many long-term rough patches and potholes on highways these days, at least in the Northeast, perhaps there isn't so much difference? I live in MA, which has awful highways, but take the van to Brooklyn NY sometimes to visit family. Driving the Brooklyn Queens Expressway is like driving a road rally and really gets the adrenalin pumping. Most drivers seem to take the approach that faster is better no matter what the road condition, plus they enjoy weaving back and forth between lanes to avoid the worst holes.)

If I wanted to take the trouble to do the fronts, would that be more likely to help with the roll/sway or would the rear shocks be the place to address that or is doing both sets the ideal approach?

I'll air down the tires a bit and see if that helps.

How can I see if the springs might be a problem? Again, I trust SprintGuy and I think he would have mentioned springs being a problem, but I didn't ask about that. I only asked that he take a good look at the van and let me know about anything dangerous or needing replacement to avoid bigger failures. I hadn't had it to a mechanic I really trusted for a long time.

On speeding up on gravel roads, I do use this approach for speed bumps - which scares my passengers a bit at first but seems to be less unpleasant overall. However, we share the gravel road with other people and in most places there is no room for vehicles coming from the opposite direction other than at turnouts, plus we maintain the road ourselves, mostly with a wheelbarrow and shovel and many trips to the crushed stone pile we keep at a turnout. Speed increases the size of the pothole pretty fast so we try to get everyone to slow down to 15 mph. Can't get the UPS and FedEx trucks to do that, but we try.
 
Last edited:

sikwan

06 Tin Can
What would be the effect of softening the rear shocks on highway driving?
For lack of a better word, it will "soften" the ride or stretch out the oscillation (compression/rebound) effect of the rear suspension.

If I wanted to take the trouble to do the fronts, would that be more likely to help with the roll/sway or would the rear shocks be the place to address that or is doing both sets the ideal approach?
It will definitely help, however, the shocks are a small component affecting sway/roll.

I want to say that the reason "why I have Koni's" is because I wanted to dampen the "rocking" side-to-side effect that I experienced going slow over speed bumps (sideways) and drive ramps. It did not affect the sway/roll, which is done by the front/rear sway bars. It does ride stiffer (relatively), but I can live with it. My wife can't tell. :smirk: She complained more about the rocking, which was dampened (rocks less) with the Koni's.

I didn't recommend doing the fronts mainly because it's a pita to do. If you're talking specifically "sway/roll," then changing the damping (shocks) will probably not help.

There are so many variables (independent front, solid rear, weight front vs rear), it'll be hard to say what will work best for you.

How can I see if the springs might be a problem?
Inspect your bumpstops. If it's covered with dirt, then your suspension is fine. Otherwise, you're bottoming out.

Can't get the UPS and FedEx trucks to do that, but we try.
Those vans are so stiff, they probably speed to avoid shattering teeth!
 

calbiker

Well-known member
The job of shocks is to dampen vehicle oscillations. If the vehicle is oscillating then the shocks are not doing their job. The Koni's are good, but there's a better shock on the market that will further dampen oscillations and rocking. Agile Offroad sells a modified Fox shock that fits the Sprinter. They're a significant improvement over the Sachs and better (and less expensive) than Koni.

I want to say that the reason "why I have Koni's" is because I wanted to dampen the "rocking" side-to-side effect that I experienced going slow over speed bumps (sideways) and drive ramps. It did not affect the sway/roll, which is done by the front/rear sway bars. It does ride stiffer (relatively), but I can live with it. My wife can't tell. :smirk: She complained more about the rocking, which was dampened (rocks less) with the Koni's.
 

guagy

New member
This is a great thread! I followed it two years ago and replaced my stock dampers with a set from Koni. Things were great, until they weren't. I had a failure in one rear shock, of the top mount band (that holds the bushing), which makes for a wild sphincter-clenching ride at freeway speeds. It looks to me like the failure follows the margin of the heat affected zone of the weld, all things considered that would be the weak spot. It happens.
My opinion of Koni, though, has changed radically as they have refused to warranty this shock. I mentioned the fact that the stock Boge dampers did nearly 100k, compared to 35k for this shock. At more than twice the price I was surprised that Koni would not honor the "lifetime" warranty they advertise. Has anyone had a failure like this? How about a successful warranty experience? I'd be interested to hear if this is an outlier or business as usual.
Best,
G
 

guagy

New member
The representative I spoke to said that "damage" wasn't covered. In this case the shock failed as I was turning into my driveway, which I've done nearly everyday in the 10 years I've owned my Sprinter. That was apparently not a convincing case. It's a transition to be sure, but the stock shocks didn't break in the 8 years I had them. Needless to say I'm disinclined to buy another set of Koni dampers. Also, this thing being a one-ton and all, I can't really tell the difference between Koni and the $59 Monroe I put on while I sort this out. I think stock may be the better choice. Keep your powder dry, folks.
 

calbiker

Well-known member
I blew a Koni shock while in Baja. Koni replaced the shock after I sent the blown-seal-shock back to them. Konies don't like topes.

There is a significant difference between a Koni set to max damping and a Monroe shock. IMO the Monroe shock is very wimpy, as is the Sachs.

As mentioned, the Fox shock, modified for Sprinter use and sold by Agile is still better than Koni. Better price too.
 

marshroger@hotmail.com

2006,2500,118, Passenger
I only have 18,000 km (11,000 miles) on my (new to me) 2006, 118 standard roof sprinter. However, I am a big guy in a power wheelchair and I sit in the middle of the van, behind the drivers and passenger seats.

On the highway this vehicle drives much smoother than my previous Ford F150 Econoline. However, I am finding that I get a really rough ride around town (speed bumps, potholes etc.).

Will the shocks help to alleviate this? What will also adding sway bars do?

I am reluctant to spend money on such a low mileage vehicle, but the rough ride in town is already getting to me.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
I only have 18,000 km (11,000 miles) on my (new to me) 2006, 118 standard roof sprinter. However, I am a big guy in a power wheelchair and I sit in the middle of the van, behind the drivers and passenger seats.

On the highway this vehicle drives much smoother than my previous Ford F150 Econoline. However, I am finding that I get a really rough ride around town (speed bumps, potholes etc.).

Will the shocks help to alleviate this? What will also adding sway bars do?

I am reluctant to spend money on such a low mileage vehicle, but the rough ride in town is already getting to me.
Check your tire pressures first. With a light load you can run less than the placarded pressures and it will make a difference.
 

Tukala

Repair / Service
I only have 18,000 km (11,000 miles) on my (new to me) 2006, 118 standard roof sprinter. However, I am a big guy in a power wheelchair and I sit in the middle of the van, behind the drivers and passenger seats.

On the highway this vehicle drives much smoother than my previous Ford F150 Econoline. However, I am finding that I get a really rough ride around town (speed bumps, potholes etc.).

Will the shocks help to alleviate this? What will also adding sway bars do?

I am reluctant to spend money on such a low mileage vehicle, but the rough ride in town is already getting to me.


Hi,

Wow, what a mileage / age, nice.

These T1N & NCV3's are originally equipped with a bit of too "lame" Rear shocks.
Especially if doin' cargo / loaded / etc.,you May easily "kill" a pair per Year, unfortunately.

Bilstein oem is quite ok, Not expensive and changing rear shocks is fairly easy Job...should be done by almost anyone who with little experience of working with cars.

I've tried quite many manuf.versions. from KYB to Koni,etc..

Ended the conclusion that there's only two shoks that are worth to invest if you really want iproved handling, loaded or not.
And won't "die" within a Year


Koni Heavy Track, Red
SV-Shocks. <- Custom design and manufactured for Sprinters.
Luckily available as stock parts.


Koni's are good choice but after driving Sprinter with SV-Shocks, you'll be amazed.

There's like a light-year diffetrnce in between these two brands, while Koni's still are greatone's and well worth, too.


Here's link http://www.sv-shocks.fi/web/index.php/catalogue
Sorry typo's, send from phone.

And please feel free to contact me if something comes up in mind.
 
Last edited:

Tukala

Repair / Service
Forgot, sway bars won't do nothing if shocks are bad.
I highly suggest to invest in shocks, improvement is huge and ofc it affect spositively on driving experience, better handling, less "wobbling" in corners..ans so on.
 

israndy

2007 LTV Serenity
I've tried quite many manuf.versions. from KYB to Koni,etc..

Ended the conclusion that there's only two shoks that are worth to invest if you really want iproved handling, loaded or not.
And won't "die" within a Year


Koni Heavy Track, Red
SV-Shocks. <- Custom design and manufactured for Sprinters.
Luckily available as stock parts.


Koni's are good choice but after driving Sprinter with SV-Shocks, you'll be amazed.
I have been looking for shocks for my 10 year old RV for some time. Kept hoping Bilstein would come out with HD shocks for the 2005. I had a bad experience with the Koni's. SV sounds like a good manufacturer as they know how to stabilize a truck or a train, surely they can do the same for a van.

Has anyone else purchased these? Who sells them? Anyone for a group buy?

-Randy
 

calbiker

Well-known member
You must of missed my evaluation of the Fox shock. Agile Offroad has modified a Fox shock so it can be used for heavy Sprinter motor homes. This shock has custom valving that addresses the deficiencies of the Sprinter suspension.

I have been looking for shocks for my 10 year old RV for some time.
-Randy
 

zaskarkid

Member
hey everyone, going to diy
any recommendations on where to get a set of these koni's?
$214 and $160 on amazon - $750 total
 
Last edited:

israndy

2007 LTV Serenity
A set of what?

Oh, and I am also keeping the Fox in mind. I had difficulty with them too finding a 2005 3500 cut-away chassis on the web.

Geez, it's almost 2017, gonna have to replace those last two tires this year too. Still have lots of tread. Perhaps I'll wait until they start to crack. They were the inner two tires until 2012. And a 10 year old RV isn't gonna be as easy to get into RV parks with.

-Randy
 

Tukala

Repair / Service
Hi alm you guys, and sorry for delayed answer.

In SV-Shocks, they really know what they're dealing with.
Doing suspension-system from trucks to Vans.
And shocks for Sprinters can be found in stock.

If any of you are interested, I'll be glad to help you out & ask / Check availability of shocks.

(sorry my English, hope you got my point Here)
:thinking:
 

Top Bottom