2010 Sprinter Roadtrek..144"

Mein,

As I said, I don't know about that specific Onan engine configuration. Post the model number (again) for me and I can have a look through some manuals. Typically, the low oil sensor is on the side of the block, with a simple 2 wire plug in. You can defeat it by shorting across the terminals or wires, as it is only as simple switch in essence.

That said, the above noted parts exploded diagram shows a oil PRESURE switch, so I Matt be completly wrong?

Icarus

PS. Say Hi to Fogoi for me. Send me a PM and I can give you some places to camp that are free and easy, although in midsummer it might be different.

T

The oil level switch is located at the bottom of the genset. You cannot see it from the outside because it’s covered by the genset bottom enclosure, although you can access the wire connection coming from the oil switch, it has one wire going to the control board. You can reach out the wire connector towards the bottom of the genset right of the oil fill tube.

Although I doubt it is a faulty oil level switch, if it is faulty- you will not be able start the genset in the first place. The switch becomes grounded when oil is low thus grounding the magneto in the process thus stops your genset. To test, check continuity of switch to ground, should be open-OR just unplug it then run the genset to test.

When it shuts down, can you restart it right away? If not, does it run when start button is held and then immediately shuts off when you release it?

I have seen posts in other forums that say the oil level switch was eliminated in "later models" of this series of generators. But I haven't seen a date for when that change was supposedly made. Also, some posts say the oil level switch has been troublesome, and does cause shutdowns after running for a short time. Perhaps because the oil level drops after the engine starts. But take this 3rd-hand info with however many grains of salt you think appropriate.

icarus said:

Mein,

...
That said, the above noted parts exploded diagram shows a oil PRESURE switch, so I Matt be completly wrong?
...
T

Click to expand...

I think the oil level switch is incorrectly called a pressure switch in some documentation and forum posts for these generators with unpressurized oil systems.

BobLLL said:

I think the oil level switch is incorrectly called a pressure switch in some documentation and forum posts for these generators with unpressurized oil systems.

Click to expand...

I believe that is correct!

Icarus

Yeah, it is sensitive to oil level; if oil is low enough it will shut it down. Easy to test if it’s overly sensitive, just unplug it and run the genset and see if it continues to run. On the other hand, if it is faulty or stuck closed, you will not be able to start the genset.

RT.SS, BobLLL and Icarus...so many thanks for the input. Guess I/we(you) solved it due the a toooooo sensitive oil level switch. Even tested it by firing up the stove then starting the Gen...no flame out at the stove giving an indication that the the LP regulator is A-okay!

Then like you all said to measure the oil level stick without screwing it completely down. Measured it by just letting it sit above the screw down thread then I gave it about another 50 ml of 15/40 Mobil! Lo and behold it ran forever in the Arizona heat and frigid temps at night...wooo...

Ach Du Lieber, I hope it prevails...

Cheers...

Just resolved my generator (start and run for about 15 seconds then shut off) problem. Diagnosed as water in system.
As I don’t use the generator very often I hadn’t bothered to figure out why it would shut off after 15 seconds, everything else worked properly. Then, propane or CO alarm started to alarm when using any one or more of fridge, stove or water heater. I assumed it could be propane regulator.
I chose to go to qualified RV repair shop for their diagnosis and repair.
Diagnosis was that, 1-propane tank was overfilled, 2- faulty regulator, 3- water in system, 4- faulty hose line between tank and regulator.

Overfill- always filled at same propane source- Esso Gas Station -they told me the tank had auto shut off. Last fill was in August, many very hot days since an no relief valve blow off. ?
Faulty regulator -age, over pressured ? Common replacement item.
Faulty hose - again overpressure, age, ?
Water in system - no obvious cause - maybe faulty hose, ? Technician explained water in system is an occasional fault which causes “all kinds of problems”.

Anyway, burned off excess fuel, replaced hose and regulator - all appliances including generator work fine.

Thought I’d share this experience for you to put in your file.
Yes, as my identifier shows, its a 2010 chasis, 2011 Roadtrek SS Ideal (rear push out bed) model.

I also had an apparent overfill situation. I didn't think that was possible, but--

Had it filled up at a service station, drove home after. Day was pretty warm & sunny, did about 9 miles on an interstate, then up the off-ramp to a rather long red light. Sitting there, I heard a loud "WHOOSH!!" noise, which was apparently the overpressure relief valve on the propane tank letting go.

Other cars' occupants looked around in surprise at the loud noise, but it only lasted a second, then all was quiet. Found out when I got home that it blew off the plastic protective cover, never to be found again. (Replaced it with a plastic pipe cap I had.) No issues since, but it sure woke me right up when that valve let go!

My Agile has 16 gallon tank, 80% fill is about 12.8 gallons, if you’re tank is totally empty that is the max you can fill it with. I usually ask the LPG service attendant how many gallons I need based on the current fill of the tank. If it is totally empty, I usually fill it up to 11 gallons tops. The extra empty space in the tank minimizes liquid LPG/contaminants getting into the vapor tube while underway.

The tank can get overfilled if the tank is not level when refilling, OPD float valve is not functioning (float head is detached, bent float arm, or if not properly installed), attendant is inattentive during refilling, etc.