Strut bolt specs needed ASAp help!

apakenham

New member
Hello all, I'm in a real bind here. I'm in Northern Canada heading for Whitehorse, and a friend of mine is 500km (middle of nowhere) ahead of me with a stranded sprinter 2500 t1n. His bolts that attach the strut to the hub ( four of them!) came loose, and the vehicle lost control. It didn't go in the ditch, and it seems that everything is still attached. I'm in a city that I could probably find bolts and bring them to him, but I need to know what size they are. Does anyone know what they are? I'm guessing M12 x 50, but that is just a total guess, and not sure the thread pitch. Save my day, and my friends trip kind strangers. Thanks in advance.
 

NORTON

Member
Going by the WIS documents for my 2001 T1n 903 they are M14 x 1.5 but it doesn't give the length
Good luck
 

Patrick of M

2005 T1N 2500 (NA spec)
Unless you have the exact bolt measurements it will be hard to pick up a matching item due to the threaded section being usually quite short relative to the bolt length. My 2 cents, if you are confident of the size pitch but don’t have exact lengths(total and threaded) pick up longer bolts and a matching die so you can cut the threads on site. (I do this often as it is faster and less expensive than ordering exact bolt. Buy best bolt stock you can, and if you use a cheap die, lots of cutting oil and backing up.

I was imagining a longer bolt with an unthreaded section for some reason, if it is just a shorty threaded all the way, have your friend make some measurements, then pick up a bunch of close sizes if you are in a rush.
 
Last edited:

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Here is a photo with the right bolt Looks like 25mm maybe 30?

I would grab a bottom (blind) tap. as the knuckle threads may need cleaned up.

From memory those bolts are 80 ft-lb.
 

Attachments

220629

Well-known member
Stuck??? Steal two each from the other side and take it easy as you drive to proper repair.

:cheers: vic
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
I think the brake caliper bracket bolts are pretty much the same? You could remove one brake caliper, and put a block of wood/metal between the pads. Hang it away from the wheel with some wire (make sure the wheel can't turn into it). Drive very slowly to your nest safe stopping place.
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Perhaps having the correct MB part number could get local replacements? (or MB ones shipped in?)
(i've been impressed by the ability of Canadian parts suppliers being able to get parts to remote garages in remarkably short order)

At worst, calling an MB Sprinter parts desk might get them to tell you the length.
((hmmm ... T1N ... are there any Dodge dealers still servicing them?))

--dick
p.s. are they normal strength bolts, or a higher "grade"?
 
Last edited:

autostaretx

Erratic Member
If it's item (1) in this drawing, my 2006 catalog says: Dodge: 05133819AA ; MB: A 901 990 03 12
(it's the only bolt they call for four (4) of)

FrontSuspensionParts.png

--dick
 

220629

Well-known member
Info is probably too late, but maybe for future.

FWIW.

19 mm head
M14 x 1.5 x 30mm?

MWD was right. Comparing pictures of the various offerings, the caliper bolts appear identical. (I'd rather steal 2 ea. bolts from the opposite side vs running without a brake caliper, but that's just me.)

My bet is that strut bolts are graded. The caliper bolts are.

Grab some washers in case they are a bit too long, maybe lock washers. Washer use = temporary fix only.

(4) M14-1.5 X 30MM hex flange head Bolts Mercedes caliper N901105014012
https://www.ebay.com/i/292998361924?chn=ps

https://www.idparts.com/front-strut...P1eCDVLZ6gH-TUgAJtr9Ez1YLEdVod3BoCNAoQAvD_BwE

https://www.carparts.com/details/Do...5_Cyl_2-dot-7L/MOK80758.html?showfitment=true

:cheers: vic
 
Last edited:

apakenham

New member
Thanks to everyone who responded, I was out of cell range for a while there. I managed to find some M14. 1.5 x 25 , and they were the exact same length. Couldn't get them to thread though, but our lucky day, we found someone with a tap the right size, and all he wanted was a deposit so we'd come back. Sure enough, that did it. Amazingly, despite the hub being supported only by the ball joint and tie rod, it feels perfect. Hopefully we can get some bolts with a higher hardness in Whitehorse. I am going to loctite those bolts now, despite MB manual not calling for it. Thanks!
 

220629

Well-known member
Use a torque wrench!
More good advice. :thumbup:

...

I would grab a bottom (blind) tap. as the knuckle threads may need cleaned up.

From memory those bolts are 80 ft-lb.
You called it.

I don't think that a bottom tap is necessary though. The entry threads likely got chewed up as the bolts twisted out. The deeper threads are probably unaffected. A starting or intermediate tap will probably work better.

:2cents: vic
 

Top Bottom