Flarespace finish
- Thread starter Sunny&75
- Start date
Montucky
Active member
I used the Flarespace trim rings (which saved a ton of time) and insulated the inside of the flares with minicell foam covered in marathon fabric. Same treatment on the trim rings and wall panels, but with thinner 1/8" landau foam. I've got 78.5" of sleeping length on the widest part of the flare... plenty for this 5'10" guy!
Attachments
We have some Flarespace trim rings for 144” to sell in case you need some.
Sunny&75
Active member
PM'd you
jsimons5811
New member
do you have the the IG handle @Van_By_ME ?
Your installation looks fantastic!
What is the length of the (3) panels from Front to the back of the van?
Thanks,
Josh
Montucky
Active member
Thanks Josh - Yep - That's my IG feed.
I think you're asking about the bed frame panels? In total, I have 60" of bed width (standard queen size) and this includes a 4" extension into the back door recess.
If this isn't what you wanted just let me know..
Thanks again!
-Rich
I think you're asking about the bed frame panels? In total, I have 60" of bed width (standard queen size) and this includes a 4" extension into the back door recess.
If this isn't what you wanted just let me know..
Thanks again!
-Rich
do you have the the IG handle @Van_By_ME ?
Your installation looks fantastic!
What is the length of the (3) panels from Front to the back of the van?
Thanks,
Josh
Montucky
Active member
Thanks! The panels are all tig welded 6061 aluminum square tube (1" x 1/8" wall) with a small gap between each section to prevent rattling. Rails on the wall are 2" x 1" x 1/8" wall rectangular tube with 5 tabs welded below for mounting to the van. I mounted my bed height at 32.5" to the bottom of the welded platform which lines up the top of the plywood with the lower edge of the flare trim. I didn't want a super high bed, and this height still allows me to have the bikes underneath with the dropper posts pushed down. I mounted the rails as high on the flat sheet metal immediately below the tapered recess in the van structure.
One unanticipated issue was how to sandwich the wall panels beneath the side rails when mounting into the van structure. There is a lot of weight on/off the bed and I didn't feel like the 1/4" plywood would support this for very long before breaking down. I ended up boring 3/4" holes through the plywood and using solid aluminum spacers to essentially float the wall panels between the rails and the van structure. This way I have a super solid connection between the rails and the van that won't flex or break down over time. So far it's worked out great, and I did the same thing with the wall cabinets to the ceiling so that the red cedar wood didn't get crushed.
I used pop rivet attached bumpers on each of the panels to cushion the contact to the rails and used 1/4-20 threaded knobs to lock each panel down to the rail and to make removal simple and easy without tools. Since the knobs are located in the center of the panel edges, and the bumpers are on the outside, the edge of the frame rail flexes slightly when tightened down which helps to keep the lock knobs tight. So far none have loosened up - even on miles of rough fire roads.
Let me know if you want more info!
-Rich
One unanticipated issue was how to sandwich the wall panels beneath the side rails when mounting into the van structure. There is a lot of weight on/off the bed and I didn't feel like the 1/4" plywood would support this for very long before breaking down. I ended up boring 3/4" holes through the plywood and using solid aluminum spacers to essentially float the wall panels between the rails and the van structure. This way I have a super solid connection between the rails and the van that won't flex or break down over time. So far it's worked out great, and I did the same thing with the wall cabinets to the ceiling so that the red cedar wood didn't get crushed.
I used pop rivet attached bumpers on each of the panels to cushion the contact to the rails and used 1/4-20 threaded knobs to lock each panel down to the rail and to make removal simple and easy without tools. Since the knobs are located in the center of the panel edges, and the bumpers are on the outside, the edge of the frame rail flexes slightly when tightened down which helps to keep the lock knobs tight. So far none have loosened up - even on miles of rough fire roads.
Let me know if you want more info!
-Rich
Attachments
grantwilson
FreedomVanGo
we trim it using the Flarespace Trim rings and Diamond Stitch on the flares themselves
EV-2 Ribault by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
EV-2 Ribault by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
EV-2 Ribault by Grant Wilson, on FlickrEV-2 Ribault by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Montucky
Active member
I can't remember exactly. I had 1/4" and 3/8" on hand, and I went with the thickness that fit nicely behind the trim rings for the CRL slider windows. We've camped when it was down into the single digits and never noticed that the flares were bleeding heat excessively. The insulation seems good.
Montucky
Active member
I always loved the way this looks Grant.. the diamond stitch looks badass!we trim it using the Flarespace Trim rings and Diamond Stitch on the flares themselves
Love your Diamond Stitch. can you send a link for where to buy that fabric? Thanks - Natewe trim it using the Flarespace Trim rings and Diamond Stitch on the flares themselves
grantwilson
FreedomVanGo
its done by a local interior guy.
Sprintertiny
New member
I'm on board with the foam and flarespace trim. My question is how you are attaching the flarespace trim to the van wall itself? Thanks! Chris
_Flarespace_
New member
a lot of people attach the trim ring to birch board. We are here to answer your ?s!
dakotaunchained
Member
Montucky
Active member
Hey Thanks! I followed you back. Congrats on your new van in the spring!
My wife can attest to the hours spent in my van tweaking the stereo system, but I'm very pleased with how it sounds. The rear speakers are JL Audio C2-650X. I pulled speaker wire to the back door locations before I put my wall panels up. Pretty easy to get access by popping off the rubber boot by the back doors on the van side and using a fish tape to pull the wires through. If you're interested in more details about the system, here's what I have:
Head Unit: Kenwood DNX 694 S
Front Speakers: I started with the JL Audio C1-650 but wasn't happy with the tweeters... they were super harsh. I recently swapped to JL Audio C2-650's and they are much cleaner.
Amp: Front and back run through an Alpine MRV-F300 amp under the passenger seat.
Subwoofer: JL Audio 8" 250W Microsub+ mounted behind the bench seat
I was tempted to get a signal processer to really dial in the gain and cutoffs, but my tweaks to the factory EQ / crossovers seem to be working fine. The system sounds fantastic and really enjoyable to listen to while driving or just hanging out when camped.
_Flarespace_
New member
we trim it using the Flarespace Trim rings and Diamond Stitch on the flares themselves
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Looks so good!