2nd what Mwd mentioned about having the lug in direct contact with the fuse - that way stud metal isnt a concern.Thanks again, outbound. Your above advice makes even more sense now reading it a second time. Mainly because it happened again.....
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I think a big part of the problem is the fuse holder. It's not keeping the fuse tight on the lugs and I'm heating up the lug and wire.
edit: By the way, this is the wire size chart from my inverter manual. Mine is model 2007-2
but that first fuse holder isnt - by any stretch - suitable for something that can pull 200amps, more like 50 max.
(it looks like something sold with/for high-output car stereo amplifiers)
the give-away clue being the allen screw fasteners - vs a 5/16 or better yet, a 3/8 stud with hexnuts and lock washers.
simply because it's unlikely one could get an allen screw tight enough - as harry points out - to withstand the thermal cycling
and - noting the suggested wire chart, see where they show that with an add'l foot beyond 4, they saying to up size to 1/0 (or 0 as they put it)?
thats TWO sizes larger, for just one lil ole measly foot of add'l length...
so please 'trust me' when i tell you that #2 is way too under sized for something that can pull 200amps, even IF the run is only 2+2=4feet,
but from the other comments, sounds like it's quite a bit longer than that - to the battery?
would also 2nd harry on his suggestion of a class-T type fuse, it's whats typically spec'd for large inverters on boats,
due to the suggested/REQUIRED number of amphours of the bank it's pulling from..
with the class-T suggested because of their VERY HIGH (ampacity) INTERRUPT RATING.
what this means is the ability of the fuse (the fusible/burnable link within its housing) to burn completely away
without it's housing melting and creating an inadvertent secondary/after-the-burn path which
would allow current to continue flowing,
AFTER the fusible link burns,
but the housing gets so hot it melts into a blob, thus NOT INTERRUPTING current flow...
implication being, that once you go above a couple100 amphours of battery (which would be abs minimum for your inverter)
you result in multiples of the batteries amphours in TOTAL CRANKING AMPS.
and (right off the top, IIRC) class-T's are 20,000 amp rated interrupt capacity - something one quickly reaches
when connecting HUNDREDS of amphours of batts, which = THOUSANDS of cranking amps.
(and i get paid, or used-to anyway - upwards of $80/hour to tell people this stuff... but just sayin.)
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