Had a problem opening the sliding door from the outside handle on our 313 Tin, tried the inside latch, really hard pull still could not move the door, did the search on door locks and came across some interesting fixes, including the item below with the crunch line
(To truly assure that your interior handle lasts, only use the hinged part of the handle to unlatch the door, and then pull open the door with the rigid part of the handle) Of course we only used the hinged part of the handle to open the door...... But not any more.
Anyway I thought I was up for a major fix. Turned out a bit of CRC thru the outside door lock allowed me to open the door and also CRC the latch, but the inside latch/lock was still not operational. This was caused by the round cylinder/rod (1/4 inch round and 3 inches long)that joins the handle onto the trim was half out, probably due to us using the handle to open the door on not the rigid part of the trim. Re adjusting the rod and all was OK.
REASON for this thread:
On the side of the door that is pushed against the front pillar, just above the door light switch there is a round rubber cover, that has some cracks in it. Can I cover the cracks with black silicon, or can these covers be purchased without the need to purchase another door lock?
Inside the lock behind this cover is a black cylinder, is it part of the child proof function?
Thanks
Peter
From a search on Door Locks from Surlyoldbill
(I'm now on my third interior handle.
I think I've diagnosed the problem (other than the handle being made of cheap plastic) to metal tab position AND ergonomics. When people open the slider from inside, they intuitively want to unlatch with the handle and pull the door open with the same handle. If the tab is not within a few mmm of it's intended position, it may still be applying force against the plastic tab of the handle as the door is pulled open. That's the whole weight of the door being held by the thin plastic of the handle parts, with force multiplied by the lever of the hinge. I have adjusted the tab location and added a 1/4" thick felt bumber (like those that go on the bottom of chair legs) where the tail of the handle would make contact with the sheet metal of the door if it were yanked open all the way. This provides an additional contact point, and divides the force being applied to the plastic if the tab is out of place.
To truly assure that your interior handle lasts, only use the hinged part of the handle to unlatch the door, and then pull open the door with the rigid part of the handle. )
(To truly assure that your interior handle lasts, only use the hinged part of the handle to unlatch the door, and then pull open the door with the rigid part of the handle) Of course we only used the hinged part of the handle to open the door...... But not any more.
Anyway I thought I was up for a major fix. Turned out a bit of CRC thru the outside door lock allowed me to open the door and also CRC the latch, but the inside latch/lock was still not operational. This was caused by the round cylinder/rod (1/4 inch round and 3 inches long)that joins the handle onto the trim was half out, probably due to us using the handle to open the door on not the rigid part of the trim. Re adjusting the rod and all was OK.
REASON for this thread:
On the side of the door that is pushed against the front pillar, just above the door light switch there is a round rubber cover, that has some cracks in it. Can I cover the cracks with black silicon, or can these covers be purchased without the need to purchase another door lock?
Inside the lock behind this cover is a black cylinder, is it part of the child proof function?
Thanks
Peter
From a search on Door Locks from Surlyoldbill
(I'm now on my third interior handle.
I think I've diagnosed the problem (other than the handle being made of cheap plastic) to metal tab position AND ergonomics. When people open the slider from inside, they intuitively want to unlatch with the handle and pull the door open with the same handle. If the tab is not within a few mmm of it's intended position, it may still be applying force against the plastic tab of the handle as the door is pulled open. That's the whole weight of the door being held by the thin plastic of the handle parts, with force multiplied by the lever of the hinge. I have adjusted the tab location and added a 1/4" thick felt bumber (like those that go on the bottom of chair legs) where the tail of the handle would make contact with the sheet metal of the door if it were yanked open all the way. This provides an additional contact point, and divides the force being applied to the plastic if the tab is out of place.
To truly assure that your interior handle lasts, only use the hinged part of the handle to unlatch the door, and then pull open the door with the rigid part of the handle. )