Nag1 TECH ALERT

rlent

New member
One thing I did observe about the wiring traces was that in certain places there did appear to the some possible evidence of temperatures high enough to cause the wiring traces to be discolored - whether this is abnormal or not I don't know. It is possible that this discoloration might not be temperature related at all - the Febi-Bilstein fluid I'm using (part no. 20007, meeting MB 236.12) is somewhat acidic - a virgin sample having a Total Acid Number of 2.3 IIRC, a fact noted by Blackstone when I had it analyzed.

The attached image shows one place where this was evident (called out with red arrows) - there were other places as well, however photographing them proved to be exceedingly difficult - due the reflectivity of the traces themselves (the fact they had transmission fluid them probably didn't help), when illuminated with enough light to take a decent picture with the somewhat crappy camera in my iPhone.
 

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rlent

New member
My new connector plate/speed sensor assembly and TCM came in yesterday and I installed the former today and reassembled everything. (Keeping the TCM as the next thing to try, if I have further problems) I lost about 1/3 quart of fluid, which I replaced with some Mopar 236.14 I had here. I took the vehicle out for a test drive - 15 mies of stop-n-go driving and no issues - although, at this point, that is no guarantee of anything - the vehicle ran fine for the 200 mile trip home after Bobilya cleared the codes that had put it in limp-home mode. Only time will tell I guess.
 

talkinghorse43

Well-known member
With vehicles, there's always something out there in the future that will rise up and bite you, but, hopefully, you've put this one to rest.
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
My new connector plate/speed sensor assembly and TCM came in yesterday and I installed the former today and reassembled everything. (Keeping the TCM as the next thing to try, if I have further problems) .
You and I haven't discussed this yet, but in case any one else is tempted to try this, the new replacement TCM is not quite a plug and play device.

The new in the box TCM needs to be coded with certain vehicle parameters so that DTCs will not be set by mismatched parameters between it and the ABS, IC,and ECM modules. The coding is accomplished using the DRBIII.

If your vehicle has high miles it may be advantageous to relearn adaptations and store them to the new module, as well, for smooth shift performance. Doktor A
 

rlent

New member
Just as an update to my replacement of the connector plate/sensor assembly, I've logged roughly 5K miles since the unit was replaced and have really experienced no bad behavior, other than one instance where the transmission dropped down one gear further than I was expecting .... and I think that was largely due to me not getting my hand off the stick fast enough :smirk: And it was not a violent event at all.
 

Ciprian

Spark Plugs not allowed!
Just as an update to my replacement of the connector plate/sensor assembly, I've logged roughly 5K miles since the unit was replaced and have really experienced no bad behavior, other than one instance where the transmission dropped down one gear further than I was expecting .... and I think that was largely due to me not getting my hand off the stick fast enough :smirk: And it was not a violent event at all.
That is very good news, Randall. Now you need some good loads to make up for the lost time. :hmmm:
 

rlent

New member
I got another long one - 1210 miles - after I wrote you - so I wound up with 2500+ for the week ..... :D:

Now if I could just get three of those a week for the next month, well then, life would be good ...... :smilewink:
 

cholman_1

New member
Wow! I did exactly what you have posted and my car feels like it has a brand new Transmission:

Symptoms were: Driving one day and I felt something and then the check engine light came on, I took it straight to autozone and got a P0700 code. but that wasnt enough because that just stats that its something with the transmission syster (can cost a lot or can cost little). So I then drove it for about 2days and it would start up and ride smooth for about 10mins or more and then it would go limp and shifting becomes rough, so I would pull over turn off and back on and it would be ok and sometimes it would not. sometimes i would get a hard thump when pulling off. So I then took it to a dodge dealer and they tested it and the came back and said it was a P0700 & P2676 code which means input speed sensor. So i then bought the the electro-hydraulic unit circuit board which had the mounted speed sensors (239.99) with the trans elec. connector's socket with O-rings, went to Autozone and bought 8 qts of ATF+4 fluid and filter. From there it was exactly what you have posted and my car was good to go.

Thanks so much for this, it saved me a lot of money and I know it was done right!
 

220629

Well-known member
...
went to Autozone and bought 8 qts of ATF+4 fluid and filter.
...
I'm glad to hear things went well for you. If you want to stay with MB spec fluids you may want to double check that the ATF+4 you purchased is proper for your NAG1 transmission. Have fun. vic

ADDED:
ATF+4 is NOT good for the Sprinter NAG! transmission.
 
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kkanuck

LUV my T1N
"Carefully lift the assembled valve body back into the transmission sump and make sure you engage the plastic sliding lever of the selector valve into the detent plate post. "


Is there any photographs of this procedure on the site anywhere by chance? I just finished draining converter, pan, dropped valve body, removed electrical socket to replace with new one, cleaned magnets/sensors on valve body, performed the DARF upgrade. I will not put it back together in the morning, and fill fluid, I was just wondering if anyone could clarify this above procedure. I know the part it refers to on the valve body, its the sliding plastic piece on the drivers side, but what is the detent plate post this thing hooks onto?

Thanks for any tips,


Tibor
 

kkanuck

LUV my T1N
I found these 2 pictures, (one from Seek), and I guess I will just try to make sense of them when I go to place the valve body unit back in the housing. Hard to make sense of it from the pictures, but everything else has been smooth...

I opened up the inspection window on the TC first time, and the drain bolt was staring me in the face, no need to turn anything. :cheers:
 

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Curmudgeon

New member
Finally got around to doing the Tech Alert and the DARF while I was in there.

All went well due to the great descriptions and pictures in this thread, thanks you to all contributers.

My transmission ( a 2005 with 60K miles ) has had two LHM episodes in the very short time I have owned it.

There was more black fuzz than shown in rlent's picture set, but no flakes on the magnet or inside the filter.

Both of the plastic solenoid covers shown in abittenbinder's original photo were not there. Not sure if they are no longer used, or if I am not the first one in there.

Any speculation on running without them ?
 

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abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
Both of the plastic solenoid covers shown in abittenbinder's original photo were not there. Not sure if they are no longer used, or if I am not the first one in there.

Any speculation on running without them ?
Those plastic solenoid covers are only present in earlier production Sprinters. Doktor A
 

artman

New member
OK, i posted this question in another thread but this is a better place.


The bolts that hold the retaining clips for the solinoids. its says to torque to 71in/lb but ive been tightening and its going to 15-20 and just keeps turning and turning but no increase in torque so im very worried that somethings wrong but all seems good. So my question is if nay one can say if that is ok? can anyone who has done this can pitch in on how it was for them when they tightened theirs down?
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
OK, i posted this question in another thread but this is a better place.


The bolts that hold the retaining clips for the solinoids. its says to torque to 71in/lb but ive been tightening and its going to 15-20 and just keeps turning and turning but no increase in torque so im very worried that somethings wrong but all seems good. So my question is if nay one can say if that is ok? can anyone who has done this can pitch in on how it was for them when they tightened theirs down?
Your bolt retaining threads in the alloy valve body have likely stripped. This will require a thread repair.

Doktor A
 

mawsea

sprinter guru
It's back!!!!!!! so about A month ago I did the Fluid change to the shell ATF, the speed sensor clean and valve body clean, new connector and even did the DARF mod. The results were amazing.....for about a month. Now the shudder is back worse then ever. To be frank I've been reading these forums for the past seven years since the yahoo days. I really don't feel like re-reading every post on the RSN subject. So does anybody have an Idea why the shudder was gone and then reappeared?
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
It's back!!!!!!! so about A month ago I did the Fluid change to the shell ATF, the speed sensor clean and valve body clean, new connector and even did the DARF mod. The results were amazing.....for about a month. Now the shudder is back worse then ever. To be frank I've been reading these forums for the past seven years since the yahoo days. I really don't feel like re-reading every post on the RSN subject. So does anybody have an Idea why the shudder was gone and then reappeared?
Just contact Andy Bittenbinder (the provider of Doktor A's RSN Fix (DARF). I'm sure he'll have the best info.

-Jon
 

josephpampliega

New member
Any information would help as issue seems related.

Van has approximately 180000 miles. Problem occured while backing up the driveway and van seemed to have gone to neutral, no forward or reverse. At first I was able to go through the gear selector and see PRND4321 and then after repeated attempts PRND of course without engagement.

Stuck at the bottom of the driveway I had no choice but to get my Mercedes XENTRY DAS to pull the code and reset but the only code that appeared was "P2108 Shift Pressure Solenoid Faulty".

Instead of going direct to replacing the Shift Pressure Solenoid I decided to just replace the conductor plate first and drain and replace all the fluid including the torque converter's. While in there the transmission and valve body seemed clean with minimal particles so I assume that nothing mechanical can be the issue.

After assembly and refilling with the initial quantity I cleared the stored error on the TCM.

After starting I was hoping to be successful but no go, still the same issue so I decided to check the fluid level while idling which then worried me because it did not drop as it usually does after starting the vehicle. So I checked for trouble codes again and none appear.

Finally I did the solenoid actuation test with no error and reset the adaptation with still no success.

Would the Shift Pressure Solenoid cause this issue and not allow fluid flow. BTW, I loosened the line to the transmission cooler while idling and no fluid flowing there. I also removed the pan again verified that filter was fully pressed in with O-ring intact.

Any help would be appreciated before I bring to the stealership for them to just tell me that transmission needs to be replaced or rebuilt in which I feel bad because I really take care of our Sprinters and pride on the longevity with no rebuild.
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
Van has approximately 180000 miles. Problem occured while backing up the driveway and van seemed to have gone to neutral, no forward or reverse. At first I was able to go through the gear selector and see PRND4321 and then after repeated attempts PRND of course without engagement.
Technically your transmission did not 'go to neutral', it lost all drive.

Only a few transmission fault codes can result in intentional loss of drive and your 2108 shift P solenoid circuit code is not one of them. If the 2108 code did not reappear after the solenoid actuation test then it is likely an unrelated, older, stored fault code.

Did you replace the filter? I suspect fluid pressure is low. You should be able to check pressures with your DAS.

Doktor A
 

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