Stuck crankshaft sensor removal the easy way

Woodythesprinter

New member
Hello guys, I thought this might help as I see more and more people reporting having a bad time changing a stuck crankshaft sensor. I personally had one and thought this might be useful so you don't waste your time as I did.

Here's how I got it done ; --> thanks to my dad for his numerous old school tricks !


So the thing is to access it by the cabin instead of trying to pull it out from underneath the van.

All you need to do in order to achieve this is to remove the floor carpet and the console
. IMG_4718.jpg

When this is done, you will notice that the sheet metal under the console location is already cut in an oval shape, spot welded and glued. Remove it and you'll have access to the upper part of the transmission and so CKP. Now you can start to work with ease without having to crawl in an awkward position under the van. :thumbup:
IMG_4717.jpg

If the sensor is well stuck like mine was, you will end up with a ripped off sensor and will have nothing to grab on. this is where the tricky part begins:
IMG_4720.jpg

Drill a hole into the sensor , and put a screw into it, then pry it off with a pry bar. Be careful, as you will need some sort of lever to keep the pry bar in a good position, everytime the sensor is getting out! ( If not, the pry bar will pry in a crooked position and the screw will just keep poping out of the sensor..:shifty: )

Go slowly and you will eventually get it out.
IMG_5133.jpg

*You will need this tool to drill in the sensor
IMG_5132.jpg

Have fun !
 
Last edited by a moderator:

220629

Well-known member
Hello guys, I tought this might help as I see more and more people reporting having a bad time changing a stuck crankshaft sensor. ...
Have fun !
Great information for the panel removal!! :thumbup::thumbup:

Do you have a brand name or link for that drill/hex extension unit? I may buy one just to have it on hand.

Thanks.
:cheers: vic

Added:
Some are impact rated.

Dewalt Impact-Rated Right Angle Flex Shaft Extension
https://toolguyd.com/dewalt-impact-driver-right-angle-flex-shaft-adapter/

Irwin Impact Right Angle Drill / Drive 1/4" Adapter Quick Change Hex Shank
https://picclick.com/New-Irwin-Impact-Right-Angle-Drill-Drive-382451494571.html

Right Angle Attachment
DEWALT| Zoro #: G1805310| Mfr #: DWARAFS
https://www.zoro.com/dewalt-right-a...MIgPi9u6mM3gIVDIhpCh217gZaEAQYBCABEgK8p_D_BwE

There were others shown for the Google search.

:cheers: vic
 
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220629

Well-known member
Looking closely, that's a hex-drive extension (not a drill chuck or collet at the "business end").

--dick
I noticed that too. I'm thinking that depending upon how robust it is it might work nicely with a hex Torx tip in some other close places around the Sprinter.

vic
 

220629

Well-known member
I noticed that too. I'm thinking that depending upon how robust it is it might work nicely with a hex Torx tip in some other close places around the Sprinter.

vic
Some are impact rated.

Dewalt Impact-Rated Right Angle Flex Shaft Extension
https://toolguyd.com/dewalt-impact-driver-right-angle-flex-shaft-adapter/

Irwin Impact Right Angle Drill / Drive 1/4" Adapter Quick Change Hex Shank
https://picclick.com/New-Irwin-Impact-Right-Angle-Drill-Drive-382451494571.html

Right Angle Attachment
DEWALT| Zoro #: G1805310| Mfr #: DWARAFS
https://www.zoro.com/dewalt-right-a...MIgPi9u6mM3gIVDIhpCh217gZaEAQYBCABEgK8p_D_BwE

There were others shown for the Google search.

:cheers: vic
 

Woodythesprinter

New member
Looking closely, that's a hex-drive extension (not a drill chuck or collet at the "business end").

--dick
Exactly, I bought the hex drill bit seperatly

Great information for the panel removal!! :thumbup::thumbup:

Do you have a brand name or link for that drill/hex extension unit? I may buy one just to have it on hand.

Thanks.
:cheers: vic

Added:
Yes, It is a flexible dewalt right angle

Thanks, nice writeup and hope Woody is now hapily rolling again before another winter sets in! :thumbup:

Thanks also MWD, purchased.
Unfortunately no, I'm having engine issue at the moment -.-
 

outbound

06/2500/140
Unfortunately no, I'm having engine issue at the moment -.-

might want to check the wiring harness, immed below the fuel filter, where it's tie-wrapped to
the steel mounting pad

cut the tiewrap, lift up the harness and look beneath it, at the point of contact...

i'd been having all sorts of electrical/turbo related problems, esp in wet conditions.

after noting several specific codes for months, nearly every time i cranked it, like:
P0107, P0100, various glowplug related codes etc etc - replaced the wiring harness
and NO MORE CODES, runs better than she ever has
:2cents:
 

Woodythesprinter

New member
might want to check the wiring harness, immed below the fuel filter, where it's tie-wrapped to
the steel mounting pad

cut the tiewrap, lift up the harness and look beneath it, at the point of contact...

i'd been having all sorts of electrical/turbo related problems, esp in wet conditions.

after noting several specific codes for months, nearly every time i cranked it, like:
P0107, P0100, various glowplug related codes etc etc - replaced the wiring harness
and NO MORE CODES, runs better than she ever has
:2cents:
I'm rebuilding the engine and replacing many parts at the same time, I'll take a look as It'll be easier now than later, thanks !
 

Pinwiz

New member
So I wonder it this Ryobi right angle drill would work if push came to shove. This is the first generation drill, the
battery at the bottom can be swiveled 90 left or right or 180 degrees, the newer type doesn't have that feature ...
 

Attachments

PhilipE

Active member
You don't need to drill a hole to put the screw into the broken off sensor. Use a wood screw. Heat the tip up with a torch. It does not need to be red hot. Most plastic used in auto's have a melt rating under 550 degrees. Then push the hot tip into the plastic of the sensor. Let the plastic come back to room temp. Then remove like Woody said.

I worked 15 years in a injection molding plant. That is how we removed broken parts from a injection mold. If its a small part. Use a paper clip instead of a screw.
 

Kbonk

Active member
Hello guys, I thought this might help as I see more and more people reporting having a bad time changing a stuck crankshaft sensor. I personally had one and thought this might be useful so you don't waste your time as I did.

Here's how I got it done ; --> thanks to my dad for his numerous old school tricks !


So the thing is to access it by the cabin instead of trying to pull it out from underneath the van.

All you need to do in order to achieve this is to remove the floor carpet and the console
. View attachment 102283

When this is done, you will notice that the sheet metal under the console location is already cut in an oval shape, spot welded and glued. Remove it and you'll have access to the upper part of the transmission and so CKP. Now you can start to work with ease without having to crawl in an awkward position under the van. :thumbup:
View attachment 102281

If the sensor is well stuck like mine was, you will end up with a ripped off sensor and will have nothing to grab on. this is where the tricky part begins:
View attachment 102282

Drill a hole into the sensor , and put a screw into it, then pry it off with a pry bar. Be careful, as you will need some sort of lever to keep the pry bar in a good position, everytime the sensor is getting out! ( If not, the pry bar will pry in a crooked position and the screw will just keep poping out of the sensor..:shifty: )

Go slowly and you will eventually get it out.
View attachment 102285

*You will need this tool to drill in the sensor
View attachment 102284

Have fun !
where did find this?
 

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