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Old 08-30-2018, 08:18 PM   #11
Cheyenne
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Default Re: Glow Plug Test--Before I Zap Myself or Fry Something

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Originally Posted by RJV View Post
Not sure what bits your talking about. I canít get the glow plug out. Itís unthreaded, but I canít pull it out.
Start the engine then slowly rotate it.

But be ready if it shoots out! Cover it with a cloth or blanket!
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Old 08-30-2018, 08:53 PM   #12
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Default Re: Glow Plug Test--Before I Zap Myself or Fry Something

Yep, I'd cover that sucker and fire it up. It should come flying out pretty hard.
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Old 08-30-2018, 09:33 PM   #13
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Default Re: Glow Plug Test--Before I Zap Myself or Fry Something

Thanks all. Happy to report I finally got it out. In a last ditch effort I took a drive to the auto parts store and bought a different penetrant: Sea Foam Deep Creep. I used a compressor to blow the Kroil (and any small metal shavings that I managed to flake off the top of the glow plug when trying to pull it out) out of the cavity around the plug. Then I sprayed the Deep Creep and used the ratchet to just spin the plug back and forth. Almost instantly I could tell it was loosening up more than it had with the Kroil. I should state here, that I was using straight up Kroil--not the aerosol spray can. In retrospect, this may have been a detriment, though I was able to get the other 4 plugs out without too much hassle. The Deep Creep is a spray can FWIW. Anyway, after a few minutes of letting the Deep Creep work it's way in and twisting the plug around I was able to pull the thing out maybe a cm or so--so at this point I knew it was close to coming out. A bit more Deep Creep, a bit more twisting, and I was back to a stalemate as the thing would not come out any further. This was all before I saw your suggestions to cover the plug, start the engine, and blow it out. I had tried to do that earlier, I even drove about 50 miles with the thing unthreaded but it remained stuck. Now that I had finally gotten it to come out a bit I tried it again(didn't cover it, oops) and the "bits" blew right out! Luckily it just hit the padded firewall and didn't do any damage, take out a neighbors window, or kill anyone. I'm happy it's done and I didn't break one off in the block. I'm seriously considering just replacing the things on both my vans on a yearly basis just so I don't have to deal with this again. All in all, I probably spent 8 hours over the last 2 weeks getting the things out, don't really feel like doing that again.

Last edited by RJV; 08-30-2018 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 09-05-2018, 01:14 PM   #14
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Default Re: Glow Plug Test--Before I Zap Myself or Fry Something

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Yep, gp2 is open and non functional
I'm confused above you said open fuse would not blow glow plug good and later you said fuse did not blow but because it did not spark or tick but fuse did not blow glow plug no good which is it? Could you not just check glow plugs with an ohm meter that is how I check them on my M.B. 300 SD.
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Old 09-05-2018, 01:34 PM   #15
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Default Re: Glow Plug Test--Before I Zap Myself or Fry Something

There are three types of failure. On one type of failure the plug will test okay but fail once it gets hot. The other type of failure is an open plug, which will show up with a meter.
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Old 09-05-2018, 04:27 PM   #16
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Default Re: Glow Plug Test--Before I Zap Myself or Fry Something

A happy glow plug is on the order of a half ohm ... and sick-but-still-conducting can be from one to two ohms.

Such fine discrimination at low ohmages is quite difficult to measure with a home ohmmeter and hand-held probes.

Both the (near zero) ohm "short" and "happy" are hard to tell apart (compare your glow plug reading with just touching the two ohmmeter probes to engine metal ... that would be a "short"), and the "happy" and "1.5 ohms" are hard to tell apart (a 1.5 ohm glow plug would still be getting pretty warm, but only a third as hot).

An open plug shows up quite nicely with an ohmmeter. (infinite ohms)

--dick (who uses a clamp-on ammeter)
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Old 09-05-2018, 09:31 PM   #17
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Default Re: Glow Plug Test--Before I Zap Myself or Fry Something

Not to take away from Dick’s ohmmeter readings, but to put into 20-amp fuse test terms:

- a failed glow plug shorted to ground will blow the fuse almost immediately;
- a failed “open” glow plug will pass no current and produce no spark when disconnected;
- a sick glow plug will heat up but produce only a weak spark when disconnected (5-10 amp current hot);
- a healthy glow plug will heat up and produce a visible spark when disconnected (15-20 amp current hot).

A clamp-on ammeter is the most accurate tool to use to measure the individual currents, but if you can’t acquire one then the 20-amp fuse test will allow you to identify any blown, shorted, and perhaps weak glow plugs.

-dave

Last edited by Nautamaran; 09-06-2018 at 02:50 AM.
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Old 09-05-2018, 10:03 PM   #18
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Default Re: Glow Plug Test--Before I Zap Myself or Fry Something

I wrote my post to give some help on interpreting (inexpensive) ohmmeter readings.

My only qualm about the fuse test is accurately judging the spark.

Many inexpensive voltmeters can directly measure 10 amps, so it might serve as verification of the "weak" current.
(but you might pop the voltmeter's fuse at a "good plug" 12 amps)

--dick
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