Por 15

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Xcountry41

Member
After waiting for 6.5 months for delivery of our 2500 170 4x4, finally getting going on our build. Initial details like moulding clip seal and extra rattletrap done. Looking to insulate the floor before making a trip south in August to pick up Thinsulate, battleborns and the piles of stuff from Amazon that have filled my brothers garage in California. Plan to use 1/2" rigid polystyrene sandwiched between two layers of 1/8" closed cell polyethylene foam under the factory floor, finished with a layer of cal rubber coin mat. Leaning towards not filling the corrugated channels with closed cell, the idea being that the air gaps might be good if moisture were to migrate under the floor. One of my many questions is around Por 15 rust inhibiting paint that I have seen mentioned here. How necessary is something like that on a new floor? Looking to build the nicest conversion I can while keeping an eye on weight and budget. Consequently have to resist doing every awesome idea I read here and see on YouTube!! Details above are provided cuz, a) looking for feedback and ideas, and b) I'm stoked for this project! Any input is much appreciated.
Thanks, Gary
 
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Sumfuncomet

Member
I've used POR15 but only on pitted rusty stuff. I thought it was a rust conversion product, that is it reacts to iron oxide and forms a protective coating. I don't know what it would serve on a fresh painted surface
 
gilee

gilee

2006 Sprinter 2500 Camper
Xcountry41 said:
After waiting for 6.5 months for delivery of our 2500 170 4x4, finally getting going on our build. Initial details like moulding clip seal and extra rattletrap done. Looking to insulate the floor before making a trip south in August to pick up Thinsulate, battleborns and the piles of stuff from Amazon that have filled my brothers garage in California. Plan to use 1/2" rigid polystyrene sandwiched between two layers of 1/8" closed cell polyethylene foam under the factory floor, finished with a layer of cal rubber coin mat. Leaning towards not filling the corrugated channels with closed cell, the idea being that the air gaps might be good if moisture were to migrate under the floor. One of my many questions is around Por 15 rust inhibiting paint that I have seen mentioned here. How necessary is something like that on a new floor? Looking to build the nicest conversion I can while keeping an eye on weight and budget. Consequently have to resist doing every awesome idea I read here and see on YouTube!! Details above are provided cuz, a) looking for feedback and ideas, and b) I'm stoked for this project! Any input is much appreciated.
Thanks, Gary
Click to expand...
I used it on my entire outside and inside.
That is because my Van ia rusty inside and outside.
I will recommend using on holes you drill like Fan, plumbing...etc.
 
Zoomyn

Zoomyn

Member
Umnn - POR-15 on a new van? Maybe on undercarriage stuff after a year so you can spot where rust is blooming up... It needs bare metal and they want it rusty. Maybe you're thinking a DIY Bedliner product like Linerxtreeme spray, Herculiner, U-POL Tintable?

POR-15 catalyzes from moisture in the air, a two-stage cure, the Naptha carrier evaporates that then allows the resins to interlock & harden. It does not convert oxides. What it does do well is prevent undercutting where the paint fails as moisture/corrosion wicks underneath it. It is thin enough to penetrate 99.5% of the surface flaws then lock up glass hard - the second//third coats fill air pin-hole dropouts and glaze over texture that wicked up earlier coats. It is thin enough a little goes a long way but once it gets air mixed in with it catalyzing begins, it produces CO2 as it cures and will bulge cans, a quickee open/close with saran wrap to keep lid from welding on will let it keep a couple of days.
 
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bobloblaw

Member
You dont need POR15 for the factory floor thats already well covered in a layer of paint. Just prime/paint holes drilled on the inside of the van with regular automotive paint.

I did use POR15 for painting bare metal pieces that I added to my van. It has excellent adhesion to new and/or rusted metal and forms a basically impenetrable coating. I used it to paint reinforcing steel plates I added to the bottom of the van for mounting our bench seat. I also used it to paint sheet metal pieces added to the inside of the van to reinforce areas I mounted our battery and water tank.
 
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Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
POR15 has poor adhesion to painted surfaces, it is designed for bare metal surfaces treated with their metal prep product. A quality automotive primer/sealer works fine for newly exposed metal, or scratches/holes from conversion work.
 
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