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Old 05-03-2009, 04:47 PM   #1
Aqua Puttana
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Default T1N OM647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

OM612 2002-2003 2.7L Water Pump Replacement

]NOTE: This is an edit of Aqua Punta's OM647 instructions for water pump replacement. It is largely fine for OM612, but some parts are not applicable to OM612.
So I have edited accordingly. HKP


5 cylinder water pump leak leaking remove replace change install


Cost

Approx. $200.00 w/ a metric Allen set.

Parts

Water pump w/ gasket. The OEM pump MB 6472000101 has a metal gasket. Other pumps have a composite gasket. Metal gasket = easier cleaning. Added: The metal gasket also provides a set spacing. I prefer the metal type.


Caution: There has been a warning about replacement water pumps having an oversized bore for the idler pulley self threading fastener. Double check that the bore is correct. Some info is here. Thanks goes to Lightguy.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25041

GO5 Type Coolant. About 2 full mixed gallons without a complete system drain/flush. I used Zerex GO5 Formula Phosphate Free from NAPA. Advanced Auto didn't carry any GO5 product. They were insistent to use one size fits all. I don't recommend that.


Tools Necessary

Typical hand tools most anyone has plus:

10mm socket or wrench (turbo heat shield)
CR-VT-20 Torx
CR-VT-25 Torx
CR-VT-30 Torx
CR-VT-45 Torx (for outlet manifold bracket)
8mm Allen (for fan bolt)
CR-VE-10 Socket
CR-VE-12 Socket
CR-VE-14 Socket
Torque wrench
Hose removal tool
17mm 12 pt. (offset box wrench for belt tensioner)
1/4" 12 pt. box wrench (for outlet manifold pump bolts)
T20 Torx screwdriver (for lower grill screws)
Ultra Blue RTV Gasket Sealant (if re-using outlet manifold gasket because none was included)
Wooden block 6 3/4"L (for propping radiator forward)

Attachment 22919
PumpToolsSm.jpg

Remove frame bar to tilt radiator forward


Disconnect the battery negative.
Remove the fasteners holding grill. Loosen the two lower screws with a T20 Torx screwdriver first. The plastic frame holes are slotted.
Remove the heat shield above the turbo.
Remove trim panels below the headlights.
Remove 4 ea. fasteners, remove the headlight pods. Disconnecting the wiring is not necessary. Swing out of the way.
Remove 4 ea. fasteners on frame. Pop 2 ea. clips. Remove the top frame and stand it on end.

Attachment 22920

The manual I have said to remove a hose to tilt the radiator and remove the fan and shroud together. I found no need to remove any hose or the fan shroud ever. I did pop the 4 shroud clips. One on the right rattled down to where I never did find it. MB over-engineered that anyway so I only need 3 clips. At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
HKP: My experience is to remove the air supply hose into the EQR, the 2 bolts attaching the the hose to the frame accessible through the driver's side headlight pod, and the 2 coolant hoses from the head, all to provide additional access to the pump and movement to the radiator; AND that the fan shroud needs to be worked on for the OM612 due to the need to access the fuel lines. My suggestion to to cut the shroud consistent with this thread on a 2-part shroud: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...d.php?p=816297

Drain the coolant

With the headlight pod removed you can more easily access the tank drain. It is hidden pretty well in the lower support structure. I made a hose unit per HKPierce. It helped, but I think anytime I drain the coolant in the future I will remove the grill and headlight pod for access. Turn the valve open to drain. Find it by feel. Added: Don't bother. The drain drains so slowly it isn't worth the effort. Catch the coolant when the pump hose is removed. A bit messy, but less aggravating.
HKP: If your van has a rear heater, disconnect the lower 3/4" heater hose under the van that goes up into the cabin and turn the key on a couple of times to run the electric circulating pump. This will pump out most of the coolant.

Attachment 22921

Remove the fan

Pull the radiator out forward for access to the fan and pump. I wedged a 6 3/4" wood block to hold the radiator out and keep access. It worked very well, but it did slightly bend the aluminum top frame lip. I do mean slightly.

Attachment 22922
RadiatorBlockedSm.jpg

Remove the 8mm Allen bolt to remove the fan and viscous clutch. Righty tighty, lefty loosey works on this one. I was able to wedge a 3/16" x 10" square shaft screwdriver into the bolt heads for the pulley to hold the shaft. The real tool designed for that would be nice. I was able to carefully extract the fan assembly with the shroud in place. HKP:
I use a large channel locks on the 4" or so on the bell part of the belt housing.


Caution: Keep the fan/viscous clutch upright when you store it. Do not lay it flat.

Use a really small screwdriver to pop the plastic cover off both idler pulleys (HKP). Remove the idler bolt using the CR-VT-45 torx. The same size as the frame screws.

HKP: Remove the belt housing - 4 torx screws.

Disconnect the two hoses on the left (one to the radiator, the other to the heater core). Before removing the upper heater hose line, remove the sensor to the left to prevent inadvertent damage to it, as that hose is difficult to get off. Favor disconnecting the heater line side of the hose first and remove the pump side after removing the water pump.

Under the high pressure pump and above the water pump are two bolts (blue arrow). Two clips hold the plastic fuel lines in place. Unclip (the release is on the top of the clip - careful as they are brittle.) For the 3rd hidden bolt (in red circle), remove the high pressure sensor to permit access to a bolt located behind both the sensor and the plastic fuel line.

If the weather is cold and the plastic fuel lines are old, a hair dryer will be useful to warm them up so that the lines can be manipulated.
Remove the bolts from the water pump.


HKP: Coolant from the block will pour out when the pump is removed. To protect the alternator from being drown in coolant, cover it with a plastic bag.



I made a cardboard bolt holder as a guide. It helps keep the bolts organized and makes it easier when re-installing. There are actually 2 different head sizes [5 of 6mmx1.0 and 4 of 8mmx1.25] and, for the larger 8mm bolts, 2 different lengths. The longest 8mm bolt is the upper left [looking at the pump from the front]. Be very careful when removing the top bolts hidden from view. It is very easy (at least it was for me) to remove a wrong bolt that is not for the pump.
Attachment 22923
BoltTemplateSm.jpg


HKP: Remove the water pump by carefully pulling out from the bottom and then pulling down. There are two flanges on the pump that the fuel line clips are attached - and they have to be disengaged without damaging the fuel lines or the clips.


Installing the new pump Remember the longer 8mm bolt goes into the upper left 8mm hole.

Install the pulley on the new pump.

Torque the pump bolts. Being careful again to get the correct bolts on the top. 6mm = 10 ft/lb. 8mm=15 ft/lb.

Install the idler pulley with the slightly triangular thread forming bolt. Torque to 26 ft/lb.
2011/07/03 edit: Do not tap the hole for the triangular bolt. The self thread design is for better holding. ("The term for the 'thread forming' feature is trilobular." Roger - Sailquik post #26)
Snap cover back on.
HKP: Reinstall the belt housing
Install the serpentine belt before the fan is in the way.
Install the fan/viscous drive. I didn't like the way the 3/16" screwdriver wedged against the viscous drive for tightening, it seemed fine for loosening. I used a large rat tail file tang to wedge the pulley bolts. Wear gloves to hold the file because they are brittle. The tang bent a bit, but it worked fine. As I didn't have the torque spec I made the bolt reasonably very tight. The proper holding tool would be nice to have.
Close the radiator drain if not done yet.
Replace the top frame member. I always grease bolts for reassembly. I also greased the bearing areas as my 2004 had rust bubbles there. A more meticulous person may want to grind, prime and paint. (The grease completely halted the rust.)
Install the 2 ea. radiator support clips.
Install turbo heat shield.
Install headlight pods.
Install lower trim panels.
Install the grill last.
Refill coolant per manual. I needed 2 gallons 50% mix. They say it takes about 3 heat/cool cycles for the level to stabilize.
Reconnect battery negative if removed.

I think the job could be done in 4 - 5 hours. It took me two days. AP/vic

Quote:
Originally Posted by abittenbinder View Post
You were wise to PM me with this question and location or I would have missed it.

There are 3 different fastener torque specs to use on the water pump. The 6mm pump housing hardware is torqued to 10 ft lbs. The 8mm pump housing hardware is 15 ft lbs. And the special 10.9 graded, thread forming bolt [TRILOBULAR™ ?] for the idler pulley mounting is 26 ft. lbs. Doktor A
Attached Images
File Type: jpg RadiatorDrainSm.jpg (9.2 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg BraceOnEndSm.jpg (17.4 KB, 12 views)

Last edited by hkpierce; 11-08-2019 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 10-03-2010, 03:45 PM   #2
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

The original water pump on my '02 (216k) was leaking so I replaced it yesterday. Also replaced the original idler pulleys and the tensioner while I was at it. Wasn't easy to work around the plastic fuel lines under the high pressure pump (probably not the same on the 647 pump). I was reluctant to try and flex them a lot worried that they might be brittle and crack. Also, 2 of the 5, 6mm torx screws securing the water pump wouldn't tighten on assembly. Don't know why they wouldn't tighten (thicker gasket than OEM, maybe thicker water pump flange?), but the OEM screws appear to be designed to be self-tapping and are tapered at the end. Anyway, I was lucky enough to have 2, 6mm hex-head cap screws that would tighten in the same holes, even though they were a mm or so shorter. I was afraid I might strip the threads in the aluminum timing case cover, so I didn't tighten the total 9 screws securing the water pump to the specified torque, just to a "feel good" level. Hopefully, it won't leak. I've run across this problem before, so it looks like I'll be investing in a helicoil kit.
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:26 AM   #3
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Hello Guys, I am new here. Actually this is my first post. I work for a company that has tons of these Sprinters and I have done plenty of these water pump jobs. I would like to commend you all for taking on this task and sharing your info for others to use.

In the spirit of sharing, I would like to offer some tricks I have found to make it much easier experience and much faster.

First off, realize that you are going to get in deep with this job. It is no joke. Once you have that mindset, here we go.

Remove the core support front bracket entirely. Once you have it turned upside down, you can remove the cable easily and set the entire assembly to the side. This goes for the turbo heat shield as well. Only three mounting hardware. One bolt and two nuts.

Remove both headlights, this enables much more room to get at hoses and such. I simply unscrew them and let them hang over the side.

Remove the front bumper. This is much easier than you think. Remove the front bumper license plate bracket and the two push pins at the corners. The bumper will pull out. It is only a plastic fasad to look like a bumper. Caution, there is a Air temp sensor located behind the plate. Again, two plate bolts, and two plastic push pins. set the bumper to the side.

Now here is the best part. remove the lower radiator hose and the smaller hose that goes to the pipe coming off the water pump.
From down below, there are two transmission cooler lines. You need a 19mm and 17mm.
with these four points removed, up front, completely remove the cooling fan. Take it aside.
The two nuts the bottom top mounts at the radiator and the electrical connection. Remove both top radiator hoses, and be sure the system completely rocks back and forth.

At this point, you will be able to lift the entire assembly up over the frame section and open the radiator like a door to the left. I would support it some how, but some people will not.
You then have complete frontal access to the fan and front of engine. Now we put them on a rack, so I bring them up to standing height, but I have done them in the steam cleaning rack on the floor, a little harder, but still not that bad.

I highly recommend you changing the belt and tensioner while you are in there. I have had several tensioner failures, and this entire process must be done to replace it as well. May cost you a little more up front, but a lot of headaches down the road. Do yourself a favor and take a picture of the belt before you remove it. This will help in the reassembly process, as for routing.

Attachment 80496

as for the removal and install of the water pump. We only use OEM parts, so I am not familiar with the aftermarket items, and gaskets being thicker. The bolts are all different sizes, but only work one way due to different lengths. I remove the water pump and pipe together. Swap it out on the bench and reuse the metal gasket it has. Never had any leaks. One more thing I may have missed, but realize the OEM water pump comes with no threads on the hole for the idler pulley. I use to thread some in using a tap. Now I simply throw the bolt on the end of a 3/8 impact and ram them in. Saves plenty of time.
As long as I'm editing... NEVER TAP THAT BOLT. It is a thread forming trilobular design fastener. Be cautious with an impact tool.

I use no silicone of any kind anywhere, all gaskets get applied dry. And as for coolant, as long as it is "Fully Formulated" or Orange or Pink, you will be fine.
As long as I'm editing... Use HOAT coolant only. NAPA sourced Prestone G05 is one option.

I do this on a monthly basis, so if you guys have any questions, feel free to PM me. I can supply you with OEM part numbers to take to the dealer if needed and more little tricks here and there.

As for the tensioner, I have found that they strip very easily, so be careful! I also found that if you do strip the tensioner mounting bolt on the driver's side, you can drill all the way thru and install a bolt that is long enough to through bolt it with bolt and nut.


Re assembly is in the reverse order and I can confirm everything the people prior to me have said. This is only to share a little bit of time saving tactics and to make the job easier. https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=58962

Have fun, enjoy! Richard

Quote:
Originally Posted by surlyoldbill View Post
Turns out that I didn't have to drain anything except the coolant; the other hoses are all flexible enough to move quite a ways once the charge air and big coolant hoses are free.
WasherBottleBeltRoute.jpg

WasherBottleBeltRoute01.jpg

Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 11-06-2019 at 04:33 PM. Reason: Added Washer Bottle w/notes
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Old 07-03-2011, 04:56 AM   #4
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

I just did my 2002 Sprinter water pump, and replaced the tensionser and the 2 pulleys that go along with them. The instructions here helped a lot. I ended up tapping the hole on the water pump (why they don't come that way is beyond me - 8mm 1.25 pitch tap in case you need to do this).

The fuel lines are in the way, at the top of the water pump, in fact, there are 2 sets of nylon clips to old the fuel lines that are attached to the water pump unit. You need to pry the forward facing doors off of these 2 clips (don't lose them), and you can then move the fuel lines a little bit to get the bolts in. I show this in the following pictures.

There are 2 places you have to wrestle with the fuel lines - the smaller bolts on either side of the fuel hose clips.

It took me 7 hours to do this (I changed the oil too). Mostly taking things apart and reassembling body parts. Changing the parts took about an hour. I reused the metal Mercedes water pump gasket (with a small amount of silicon sealer added).

My water pump was not leaking, but I have 167,000 miles on my Sprinter (12000 of them from me) and I had no idea how old anything was. I have read a few people mentioning that these last for 200,000 miles, so I figured, I'll just change it, Upper and Lower radiator hoses, the tensioner, pullys and serpentine belt while the Sprinter is in my driveway - its easier to fix it there than on the road

I am glad I did. The bearing in the old water pump makes a bit of noise if I spin it, and one of the pullys makes a clicking sound when I spin it (the old ones both spun freely) The tensioner pully sound like it has some grit in it. Nothing fatal, but definately worn.

Used Zerex G-05 (HOAT) anti-freeze at a 50/50 mix with water.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2002WaterPump1.jpg (60.1 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg 2002FuelLines.jpg (38.7 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg 2002FuelLineBolt.jpg (43.9 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg 2002Belt.jpg (42.1 KB, 11 views)
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Old 07-03-2011, 02:32 PM   #5
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmoller99 View Post
...
I ended up tapping the hole on the water pump (why they don't come that way is beyond me - 8mm 1.25 pitch tap in case you need to do this).
...
The bolt you tapped for is a self threading slightly triangular bolt made to cut edit-form its own new threads. I'm told it is designed that way for better holding power so the hole should not be tapped.

That said, others have tapped the hole as you did. I don't recall anyone getting back to us that they had trouble after tapping the threads so I wouldn't panic. (Maybe add some medium hold Loctite if the bolt is easily accessed?)

Thanks for the pictures and information on the OM612 pump change. I'm certain it will help others. vic
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Old 07-04-2011, 04:16 AM   #6
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

My bolt did not appear to be a self cutting bolt (I ran it thru an 8mm 1.25 threaded nut to make sure of its size, and it was was round, not triangular in any way), which is why I pre- threaded the water pump. Its not in a place that is easy to get to once the radiator is back in place, so I am not planning on doing anything with what is installed. Mine is a 2002 model, and the parts I took off appear to be original, so it is possible that some things changed over time and they use different bolts now. At least I can get new bearings for the old tensioner and pullys and rebuild those if I wanted to (I may need them 10 years from now, and who knows how hard they will be to find then).

There was no way I could have gotten my impact wrench between the slightly opened out radiator assembly and the front of the water pump where this bolt goes, so pre-tapping made a lot of sense to me. You can't put the pullys on until after the water pump is installed - the pullys block access to water pump bolts.

I really wanted to change the thermostat too, but this requires a lot of disconnecting fuel lines that I really was not up to at this time.
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Old 07-28-2011, 02:03 PM   #7
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmoller99 View Post
My bolt did not appear to be a self cutting bolt (I ran it thru an 8mm 1.25 threaded nut to make sure of its size, and it was was round, not triangular in any way), which is why I pre- threaded the water pump.
The factory fastener is not a thread 'cutting' bolt but rather a thread forming bolt used in soft alloy castings.

The bolt will always be marked '10.9' on the head (normal bolts are typically 8.8) in addition to having a hard to identify, slightly triangular cross section.

Do not tap a non threaded bore when you encounter one in a new Sprinter alloy casting. It likely uses a thread forming bolt as a fastener. These are used in numerous locations on the Sprinter engine.

Doktor A
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Old 08-22-2011, 03:54 AM   #8
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by talkinghorse43 View Post
The original water pump on my '02 (216k) was leaking so I replaced it yesterday. Also replaced the original idler pulleys and the tensioner while I was at it. Wasn't easy to work around the plastic fuel lines under the high pressure pump (probably not the same on the 647 pump). I was reluctant to try and flex them a lot worried that they might be brittle and crack. Also, 2 of the 5, 6mm torx screws securing the water pump wouldn't tighten on assembly. Don't know why they wouldn't tighten (thicker gasket than OEM, maybe thicker water pump flange?), but the OEM screws appear to be designed to be self-tapping and are tapered at the end. Anyway, I was lucky enough to have 2, 6mm hex-head cap screws that would tighten in the same holes, even though they were a mm or so shorter. I was afraid I might strip the threads in the aluminum timing case cover, so I didn't tighten the total 9 screws securing the water pump to the specified torque, just to a "feel good" level. Hopefully, it won't leak. I've run across this problem before, so it looks like I'll be investing in a helicoil kit.
Had to do it again because the shaft seal started leaking. OEM lasted 216k, this one 18k. Lot of work, but at least it's within the 1 yr warranty. Hope this one is better. Also noticed some corrosion or cavitation damage on the corners of a coolant passage (near oil filter) in the timing cover.
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Old 02-16-2013, 03:11 PM   #9
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

If you're going to do this to replace your water pump, then I would make sure to install a MB genuine part. I (and others) have had bad luck with the Meyle brand aftermarket one (bought from Europarts). I've had to replace the pump 3 times to date (2 Meyles) and it's not a job I like to do. I thought I had cracks in my harmonic balancer and the good Doktor did too (looked like it), but when he got it out and a new one in there, I cut the old one apart on many planes and could not find a crack - I don't hold out much hope for visual inspection. BTW, the good Doktor did't even swing the radiator out of the way to replace my harmonic balancer, but yours might be different since it's the 2-belt version.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:23 AM   #10
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

I personally don't think that removing the radiator and many other parts is necessary to change the pump, or a good idea because you are disturbing so many unrelated items which can create other problems. The problems can be significant on vehicles which live through northeast winters and road salt. I've kept my opinion to myself about this because getting better access may be worthwhile to some people.

Since the subject is now under discussion...
One Achilles heal which I worried about is the transmission fittings. If you screw those up you may be facing a radiator replacement. Extra $$$$. FWIW. vic
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