No turning back now
- Thread starter Adolphus
- Start date
Bathroom complete and feels roomier. Shower pressure is just a drizzle, but adequate. I’m looking for a less yellow light and also plan on treating the sink bowl chemically to bring back the original white. I’m pleased with the increased toilet seat height with the added 1.5” base.
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Thank you so much for taking to time to share this. I'd argue one of the most consistent problems westy owners deal with are the A/C and Between the Eat,drink,men,woman blog (unbelievable information as well) and your post, it seems like the solution is becoming more streamline.
FYI, here is a picture of my Generator relocation method. I used a standard driver side spare tire carrier, upside down, cut the door side mounting bracket and welded a new one on to clear the door handle. The box is just a reinforced aluminum box, with boat hull covers to allow for ventilation intake and a 500CFM 110v fan for cooling. You would be blown away at how quiet this setup is. Hard wired into the input from the previous Onan genset.
If you use an easy start module a honda eu 2200i (new version of eu200) should easily be able to power a 13.5k or 15k btu AC. (https://www.microair.net/collection...3bGAvpEAQYASABEgJ71_D_BwE&variant=30176048267)
FYI, here is a picture of my Generator relocation method. I used a standard driver side spare tire carrier, upside down, cut the door side mounting bracket and welded a new one on to clear the door handle. The box is just a reinforced aluminum box, with boat hull covers to allow for ventilation intake and a 500CFM 110v fan for cooling. You would be blown away at how quiet this setup is. Hard wired into the input from the previous Onan genset.
If you use an easy start module a honda eu 2200i (new version of eu200) should easily be able to power a 13.5k or 15k btu AC. (https://www.microair.net/collection...3bGAvpEAQYASABEgJ71_D_BwE&variant=30176048267)
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I fitted a more powerful water pump that made a huge difference in pressure. the GPM might be higher, but we find we use the same amount of water as it doesn't take as long to "de-soap".
The video doesn't do it justice, but the generator is essentially inaudible at about 100 feet. Especially if you are in the woods.Thank you so much for taking to time to share this. I'd argue one of the most consistent problems westy owners deal with are the A/C and Between the Eat,drink,men,woman blog (unbelievable information as well) and your post, it seems like the solution is becoming more streamline.
FYI, here is a picture of my Generator relocation method. I used a standard driver side spare tire carrier, upside down, cut the door side mounting bracket and welded a new one on to clear the door handle. The box is just a reinforced aluminum box, with boat hull covers to allow for ventilation intake and a 500CFM 110v fan for cooling. You would be blown away at how quiet this setup is. Hard wired into the input from the previous Onan genset.
If you use an easy start module a honda eu 2200i (new version of eu200) should easily be able to power a 13.5k or 15k btu AC. (https://www.microair.net/collection...3bGAvpEAQYASABEgJ71_D_BwE&variant=30176048267)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mckv7kRrqbayqp1ZaefP-gfxXskvRr1y/view?usp=sharing
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Should work now.
Here is the pump I used: http://a.co/d/26fJ2zF
The inlet hose from the van water system actually fits inside the pump output, miraculously, rather that over the outlet like the original pump.
My pull out shower hose stuck again! This time it won’t happen again. I had already moved the hose clamp to give the largest curling radius, but still stuck when trying to push it back in. This time I adjusted the hoses and cut a small access hole that allows future hose jam corrections without taking off the sink (again). Also fixed a kink in the cold water supply while I was at it by using the heat gun to soften it and then made round again and wrapped it with heavy duty tape. Then chamfered the cabinet to round the inside edge so it wouldn’t compress the hose again.
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Generator/rack completed. The challenge had been to adjust generator height so the adjacent fiamma rack functions properly for two bikes and still have adequate room for the license plate bracket to be welded to the base of the generator rack. All’s well and enough room for all. Next task is to secure a 120V flexible cable from the transfer switch through one of the now unused original license plate light holes and weatherproof it. Trying to decide on whether to build a box around the generator for traveling or just a Sunbrella fabric cover.
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Riptide
Active member
I was going to suggest an Aluminess box, which are sized for the Honda generators, but I don't think the rack will clear the box when the rack has bikes on it...
They call it a Galley Box: https://www.aluminess.com/accessories/boxes/ But you could probably get something similar made locally, cheaper, that would hug the generator closer...
They call it a Galley Box: https://www.aluminess.com/accessories/boxes/ But you could probably get something similar made locally, cheaper, that would hug the generator closer...
I’m leaning toward fabricating it out of lightweight plywood since I don’t need extra security beyond the lowpro lockdown plate, but if I go the box route then I’ve got to think through whether I use a fan or just keep open to airflow with doors. I seem to remember someone recommend 500 cfm however most high velocity bathroom fans only reach 150. The other option is possibly two granger 100 cfm fans that would be 36W total if that would be the ticket. Any thoughts?
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Did you read my post in the 5th page? Regardless of what you do, if it's running in a box even with a fan you need to worry about the heat created from the exhaust. I'd recommend insulating and routing it separately as an exit from the box. I used waterproof boat access holes to gain entry to the top and both sides.
This thread has a nice generator box. Looks like it has plenty of ventilation with grate floor and wall vents. Looks like controls are easily accessible.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57457
Some other links to boxes:
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60897&highlight=Generator+box
Autocamp's box:
http://eat-drink-men-women.blogspot.com/2016/03/in-good-shape-brunnhilde-part-21.html?m=1
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57457
Some other links to boxes:
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60897&highlight=Generator+box
Autocamp's box:
http://eat-drink-men-women.blogspot.com/2016/03/in-good-shape-brunnhilde-part-21.html?m=1
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This week I focused on the brake controller project and completed threading a missing "blue wire" under the car from the rear bumper Apex Delphi 2.8 connector (new pin) to under the dash. Also completed prepping B+ power wire with a 30A auto resetting circuit breaker at the driver's seat a la autocamp's location. Of note, the circuit breaker could have been placed at the back of the seat instead of by on the side by the other seat fuses since I did not remove the front seat, but slid it all the way forward and removed the fiberboard cover to access the "B+" 12V power (after I disconnected the battery). I have been wistfully gawking at the Redarc towpro Elite brake controller since it integrates into a dash with one small push/rotate control button...but will likely use the Tekonsha P3 I already own. Once the brake controller connector arrives I'll find out if using the tap fuse for the brake signal (fuse 5 under the steering wheel) was a good idea.
Also added a green LED to my DSI water heater switch panel (with an in-line current limiting resister under the shrink tubing) since I forget to turn it off occasionally.
Also added a green LED to my DSI water heater switch panel (with an in-line current limiting resister under the shrink tubing) since I forget to turn it off occasionally.
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The brake light tap fuse approach was a bust. It just outputs battery voltage, not brake signal when pedal pressed. I had to tap into the wire directly off the brake signal wire after all. All’s good finally after I got the pesky harness connector reattached to the brake switch.
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