Thinsulate

Boathik

Tinkerer extraordinaire
I know Hein (Impact Products) has been the main supplier of Thinsulate for van conversions. What he sells has black scrim on one side. I noticed Adventure Wagon sells Thinsulate (same thickness, 44mm) with scrim on both sides. Any thoughts on which is better?

Also, Hein recommends 60sq ft for a 170 and Adventure Wagon says 75sq ft. Which is the right number for a 170 Crew and I'm planning on flares with windows both sides, XPS foam u der the floor.

Thanks,
Josh

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sgrichar

New member
Hi Josh, I work for Adventure Wagon. The choices are very similar. We use the dual scrim primarily for the ability to double stack the thinsulate for lower compartments in the van. This was based on the recommendation from the 3M guys. The dual scrim simply gives us a cleaner surface area for bonding. We also use 3M double stick tape and simply put a couple of small pieces between the two layers then again a few pieces to adhere it to the wall of the van.

This also may be why we advocate using more thinsulate in your 170. For our interior kits we trace out every compartment onto the 3M like a jigsaw puzzle and double stack the lower areas and include the cockpit headliner. Our number reflects what we are using in our kits.

Scott
 

hein

Van Guru
The Adventure wagon kits are for those folks who can't use scissors. The double scrim is much harder to cut and doesn't connect as well to the sheetmetal for resonance control. There is no need to double up as the air space is the walls provides additional R-value and provides some room for air to circulate and allow moisture to escape.

We have been supplying 3M Thinsulate(TM) for many years and are the preferred supplier for 3M. Our prices are lower and our service is better than anyone else.We do stock double scrim and thinner versions of Thinsulate(TM) and have the expertise to help you decide which product and insulation strategy best suits your needs. We also stock Low-E which can help improve the R-value in the roof where the depth is less and heat load higher.

Josh, please call today and we can go over your questions. We recommend 60 linear feet (300 sq ft) for a typical 170 Sprinter.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan.com
541 490 5098
Kim
541 490 4292
 
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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
The Adventure wagon kits are for those folks who can't use scissors. The double scrim is much harder to cut and doesn't connect as well to the sheetmetal for resonance control. There is no need to double up as the air space is the walls provides additional R-value and provides some room for air to circulate and allow moisture to escape.

We have been supplying 3M Thinsulate(TM) for many years and are the preferred supplier for 3M. Our prices are lower and our service is better than anyone else.We do stock double scrim and thinner versions of Thinsulate(TM) and have the expertise to help you decide which product and insulation strategy best suits your needs. We also stock Low-E which can help improve the R-value in the roof where the depth is less and heat load higher.

Josh, please call today and we can go over your questions. We recommend 60 linear feet (300 sq ft) for a typical 170 Sprinter.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan.com
541 490 5098
Kim
541 490 4292


Yes, 60 linear feet sounds more accurate. 60 ft2 would not cover the ceiling on my 170. I just took delivery of my last roll of Thinsulate for a total of 65 linear ft and filled every accessible void in my van. Thinsulate is worth the expense based on all the factors associated with installing insulation. I have multiple sheets of poly iso that I will give away. The poly iso although inexpensive is a pain and a mess to install. I also learned that if the poly iso rubs against anything you will have annoying squeaks. Spray foam insulation can lead to problems documented on this forum but the bigger issue is running electrical and plumbing through a van with foam. Very happy with the Thinsulate.


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DirtDogg

Member
The Adventure wagon kits are for those folks who can't use scissors. The double scrim is much harder to cut and doesn't connect as well to the sheetmetal for resonance control. There is no need to double up as the air space is the walls provides additional R-value and provides some room for air to circulate and allow moisture to escape.

We have been supplying 3M Thinsulate(TM) for many years and are the preferred supplier for 3M. Our prices are lower and our service is better than anyone else.We do stock double scrim and thinner versions of Thinsulate(TM) and have the expertise to help you decide which product and insulation strategy best suits your needs. We also stock Low-E which can help improve the R-value in the roof where the depth is less and heat load higher.

Josh, please call today and we can go over your questions. We recommend 60 linear feet (300 sq ft) for a typical 170 Sprinter.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan.com
541 490 5098
Kim
541 490 4292
I've seen people install insulate with the scrim side on the sheet metal which I was told allows the white stuff to loft. What is your take on this?


Thanks,

Jim
 

hein

Van Guru
We install Thinsulate(TM) with the fiber side to the sheetmetal to help wick condensation away from the surface should it occur there. We are taking advantage of the characteristic that makes Thinsulate great in garments. Thinsulate fibers expand and conform to the surfaces. The improved contact will allow the Thinsulate to control panel resonance and eliminate the need for mass loading products like dynamat, fatmat, etc. Installing with the scrim on the outside isn't wrong but there is no need for scrim on both sides. Thinsulate has been used in the marine industry for a long time. It's always installed with scrim out. The scrim is designed as protective layer. No reason to put that in a place where protection is not needed.

We don't see any reduction of loft over time and the weight of the scrim has actually increased it inside the roof of our Transit. We haven't installed a headliner so have been rolling with the Thinsulate(TM) scrim as our headliner for ~7000 miles. The roof beams of the Transit are 1.75" deep and the Thinsulate has lofted to in excess of 2" between where the scrim is attached to the roof beams. The fiber side is still firmly attached to the sheetmetal.

 
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Bob Laps

Active member
I don't remember the pros and cons to be honest but in my opinion it's just as good and less expensive

Bob
 

hein

Van Guru
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thinsulate

Link above states 200g (basis weight) Thinsulate(TM) has R-value of 2.9. SM600L is 600g basis weight. 3M publishes R5.2 but we've always thought that was low based on the feedback from customers. Thinsulate(TM) is a bit thicker than the ThermaWrap and also likely has better acoustical properties. The fibers are engineered to absorb noise. The material passes FMVSS-302 which is requirement for use in vehicles. Thinsulate(TM) does cost about 25% more but the 60" width allows for better usage and less cutting.

Bob, I followed links to your build. You did a great job. I didn't see any photos of how you installed Thermawrap and the Reflectix in your walls. Did we have an opportunity to send you a Thinsulate(TM) sample for comparison?
 
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Technomadness

New member
The thinsulate I bought from you is %83 more expensive per square foot than the DuPont wrap at his link.


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hein

Van Guru
Sorry; late night reply. I based my comparison on our per foot price of $8.88 and forgot to include our shipping and ebay fees and then did the math wrong too. Looks like our SM400L ($6.88/LF) is more competitive. Appears the R-value of the Thermawrap lies between the SM400L and the SM600L. I'll ask 3M to do a performance comparison between the two.

One thing to realize is that 160 sq ft (4x40) isn't enough for a whole van so 2 rolls would be required.
 
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sprinterdiscovery

Active member
FWIW....I used DuPont TTherma wrap..it's rated at R5... I was more than happy with it

Bob
I've used the same material. Thermawrap R5.0. White tyvek on the one side, and fluffy white stuff on the other. Glued to the walls and ceiling with 3M Super 90, covered with hard board. Both from HomeDepot in Vancouver on clearance. Works very well over the past year.
 

Bob Laps

Active member
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thinsulate

Link above states 200g (basis weight) Thinsulate(TM) has R-value of 2.9. SM600L is 600g basis weight. 3M publishes R5.2 but we've always thought that was low based on the feedback from customers. Thinsulate(TM) is a bit thicker than the ThermaWrap and also likely has better acoustical properties. The fibers are engineered to absorb noise. The material passes FMVSS-302 which is requirement for use in vehicles. Thinsulate(TM) does cost about 25% more but the 60" width allows for better usage and less cutting.

Bob, I followed links to your build. You did a great job. I didn't see any photos of how you installed Thermawrap and the Reflectix in your walls. Did we have an opportunity to send you a Thinsulate(TM) sample for comparison?
Thanks Hein...I never took any pics of the insulation install...I wasn't aware that a sample of thinsulate was available....to be honest I was going to use thinsulate but happened to see the thermawrap at the lumberyard and took a shot on it

Bob
 

Technomadness

New member
Doing a bit more pricing, polyisocyanurate and XPS are $0.60 a square foot. Thermawrap is about $1.37 and Thinsulate 600 was $2.50. (As I got it from eBay.)

I will say thinsulate (and presumably thermawrap) are a whole lot better to work with, much easier and a lot more fun.

Rigid foam is a PITA and no fun at all. I’m not buying anymore. Gonna buy some thermawrap and see how it does.


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JIB

Well-known member
Technomadness, I was thinking the same thing, although I like 1/2 inch XPS strips, capped by 1 inch of XPS under a wood floor. Definitely a run down to Hein for Thinsulate for the walls and ceiling and likely some other stuff too. He's only three hours from me.

I've been considering strips of sheet cork on the inner surface of the ribs as a thermal break, although plywood furring strips will do a decent job too.

Jack
 

Technomadness

New member
Technomadness, I was thinking the same thing, although I like 1/2 inch XPS strips, capped by 1 inch of XPS under a wood floor. Definitely a run down to Hein for Thinsulate for the walls and ceiling and likely some other stuff too. He's only three hours from me.



I've been considering strips of sheet cork on the inner surface of the ribs as a thermal break, although plywood furring strips will do a decent job too.



Jack


For thermal break I’m using neoprene washers. The walls are HDPE and PE and fit in 80/20 slots. The 80/20 is attached using aluminum brackets I made. There are two thermal breaks using washers- between the 8020 and the bracket and between the bracket and the van wall. The only place where metal can touch metal is if the bolts touch the sidewalk of their holes— which they generally don’t do because the holes are a bit oversized.

Will have to wait until it’s all done and I can check with IR to see if this is working. Can’t seem to find my laser guided thermometer.


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