Installing Thule/Yakima type rack roof mount rail

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nomadsoup

New member
Epicday said:
Could you post a pic of the Alurack when you get it and your thoughts on it. Thanks
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I get the rack installed tomorrow. I will take some photos and post them and let you know what I think of it.
I choose the Alurack because it seemed to be the lightest (40 lbs lighter) of the racks that I was looking at for carrying gear (Gas cans, surf boards, ...) on top of the van and its ability to handle more than 400lbs. It also looks pretty clean. I hope this is all true. The only draw back is that it is more expensive than most racks - $1400 installed which includes the C Rails that attach to the top of the van.
You can find info on the rack at:
http://primedesign.net/alurack.htm
 
Cole

Cole

OUTLAW SPRINTER!!!
Saw this image in a craigslist add the other day. Thought you guys might find it interesting.

 
R

Rensho

Member
Has anyone thought of using L track instead of the thule yakima track? The L track allows insertion of many types of attachments, and its cheaper and comes in longer lengths.
 
Cole

Cole

OUTLAW SPRINTER!!!
Rensho said:
Has anyone thought of using L track instead of the thule yakima track? The L track allows insertion of many types of attachments, and its cheaper and comes in longer lengths.
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Yep! :thumbup:


I think its a great idea! I thought about it myself but then found the deal on the track I got!
 
R

Rensho

Member
Cole said:
Yep! :thumbup:


I think its a great idea! I thought about it myself but then found the deal on the track I got!
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Cole, I sold my EV 3 weeks ago and just got a '14 sprinter 144. Let the modding beginning (i'm in for a load of work).
 
Cole

Cole

OUTLAW SPRINTER!!!
Karl2014 said:
Here's my DIY 8020 solution
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Having just priced out some 80/20 I don't see that it would much/any cheaper really than the Yakima racks.(once you account for all the included hardware with the Yakoma racks.). Maybe?

Edit:

I just looked up the 80/20 price sheet for 1575 black anodized. Which basically looks the closest to the Yakima/Thule roof rails. It.s $0.53 per INCH. So about $156 plus shipping and hardware (plan on about $45 at least).to do the 12' of van I did with Yakima stuff. Not too bad on price.
 
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Cole

Cole

OUTLAW SPRINTER!!!
Yeah. I knew what you were talking about. I was just replying to the idea of 80/20
 
C

chrismac

Member
Rensho said:
Has anyone thought of using L track instead of the thule yakima track? The L track allows insertion of many types of attachments, and its cheaper and comes in longer lengths.
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I am thinking of L Track right now.. I like the look of the yakima products, but I'm wondering if the L Track would provide a more industrial option with additional uses past the light weight mounting of the solar.. exactly what I'm not sure, but imagine I could find something down the road. Seems like it is a bit cheaper, just as low profile, aluminum, and longer.

The only thing I'm not seeing is how to mount a solar bracket side to side. Most fittings I'm finding are tie downs and the like. Are threaded 'studs' readily available to just bolt stuff to the track? I found a threaded stud fitting, is this the sort of thing to use you reckon? (picture too)

http://www.rbcomponents.com/components/hardware-1/l-track-fitting-double-threaded-stud-5000.html

And is the "L Track" universal between brands for compatibility? thank you
 

Attachments

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Rensho

Member
I bought L track from Amazonia. 100" long. I'll likely cut it in 2 and use it for the 111" of factory install.
Know that the Ltrack comes drilled every 4". The drilled holes in my 144 seems like it was done in random intervals, 8 holes each side.

Now I need to decide if drill roof or drill Ltrack and countersink.
 
B

Bikeflights

New member
I just got a 2014 170 Crew without rails installed at the factory but got a set from the dealer. I am getting ready to install them and was looking for how to pull headliner without damaging. Anyone have some steps to follow so not to damage? I really like the idea of the yakima plus nuts so not to remove. Alan how did your install go? Did you go nuts or remove the headliner and use factory bolts?
 
PATECO

PATECO

Member
What size load bars are you all using? I already have the correct fit kit, and can install the rails easy since mine is a cargo with no headliner. However, my previous van was a lot narrower, and I wan to get the most width I can without overhanging the truck sides.
 
M

Mtbiker

New member
zipperje said:
Roadthunder,
I installed aftermarket roof rails on my '13 high roof. There are factory-installed holes (sealed with plastic plugs) in the 2013 Sprinter roof at the locations of each mounting bolt in the rail. The plastic plugs have to be drilled out and the area around the hole scraped to remove bits, to get a good seal for caulk. My gut feel is if headliner is not removed you will have bits of plastic rolling around on your headliner after drilling these out.

The segments of headliner that have to be removed are pretty easy to remove without damage starting from rear door. I have not attempted to re-install mine (I am adding wall and ceiling panels and gave them away).
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Are the factory-installed holes treaded and are you saying that it goes straight through the roof, outside to inside.
 
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