FWIW
2017 144 Crew high 4x4 pebble gray - insulation experiment - thanks to everyone who has posted on this topic. It was quite a read.
My considerations:
1. I run a Sprinter (2nd one) because I have big dogs that are always with me and I also work with breed rescue, on occasion, so I need a large, flexible, quickly reconfigurable space.
2. I’m more concerned with heat than cold. The colder it is, the happier the dogs are but the heat really gets to them. When driving east-ish/west-ish across the country (most common trips) or when parked during training, direct sun to the roof, front and rear of the van is the main concern. That being said, we are in the PNW and the dogs also get regular trips to the mountain. Snow covered dogs take a long time to melt and they introduce a lot of moisture as they do. Defrost will help with moisture control but outside humidity, condensation and, therefore, good air circulation are a concern.
3. We will camp in the van in the summer but winter camping would be rare.
4. I won’t keep the van forever and the closer to stock the van is, at time of sale, the easier the van will be to sell. Any updates must be minimally invasive and cost effective. (Working under the assumption that upgrades are worth, at best, 50% of their value at time of sale). For this reason I also don’t want to cut into the skin of the van.
5. I’m an ex mechanic. Permanent changes like things glued to walls and other changes that make repair work difficult drive mechanics crazy and raise repair costs.
6. The van has the cab insulation option and it is much quieter than my 2011 without the option, so no plans to touch the cab until I understand exactly what that package included (does anyone know?)
After reading through all the insulation posts I came to the conclusion that I own a metal garden shed with wheels. So I decided to approach insulation from that perspective and focus first on radiant heat barriers in the roof and glass. I’m also in the apparel industry so I am familiar with apparel insulation. My Columbia OmniTech insulated vest was also an inspiration as it has a radiant barrier and reflects substantially more heat than a vest without the OmniTech lining.
Overall I’m not trying to crest a climate controlled environment. Just trying to improve conditions a bit.
Plan
1. Sound dampening - because I already had torn the interior apart. I used Second Skin from Arizona, 1mm B grade because there is a lot to cover. U.S. made and glue tested in the Arizona heat. This is the second time I have used this product and I like it. I did 50-60% coverage and the complete wheel wells. REALLY BIG difference. The interior volume has dropped enough that people hear the difference when I’m on the MB phone mic. Downside? I can now hear squeak and rattles in my gear that I never heard before. Road noise, speed bump noise, tire whine all substantially reduced.
2. Roof insulation - Second Skin Heat Wave Pro attached to the HEADLINER with 3M 90 (not to the roof) so there is a reflective air gap between the headliner and the roof. HWP is 3/8 denim insulation with reflective material on both sides. This insulation is generally light and quiet. I made individual batts and sealed them before attaching them to the headliner so moisture should not be an issue.
Unfortunately - I really won’t know how well all this works for another few months but the last few days in the PNW have been sunny and it seems like less heat is coming through the roof.
Floor insulation - 3/8 in Stall mats cut to fit. For my application, the durability, sound and heat reducing properties along with easy removal for cleaning can’t be beat for the price.
3. Windows - in the next months I will replace at least one and probably both crew windows. with window-in-a-window slider windows to improve airflow and then I’ll have 3M non-tinted Crystalline series UV blocking film placed on the front windshield band and all other glass.
3. Walls - Crew inserts removed and replaced with the plastics from a cargo van, simply because they a durable and, most importantly, easy to clean. Wall insulation plan is undecided at this time but my thought is to cover the interior plastic panels with radiant Mylar (glued on) using the dead air space that exists between the panels and the outer sheetmetal.
If winter camping becomes a consideration. I will sew Thinsulate inserts that can be attached to the interior walls.
I’ll add some pictures. Hopefully they help someone for some project they have in mind.
2017 144 Crew high 4x4 pebble gray - insulation experiment - thanks to everyone who has posted on this topic. It was quite a read.
My considerations:
1. I run a Sprinter (2nd one) because I have big dogs that are always with me and I also work with breed rescue, on occasion, so I need a large, flexible, quickly reconfigurable space.
2. I’m more concerned with heat than cold. The colder it is, the happier the dogs are but the heat really gets to them. When driving east-ish/west-ish across the country (most common trips) or when parked during training, direct sun to the roof, front and rear of the van is the main concern. That being said, we are in the PNW and the dogs also get regular trips to the mountain. Snow covered dogs take a long time to melt and they introduce a lot of moisture as they do. Defrost will help with moisture control but outside humidity, condensation and, therefore, good air circulation are a concern.
3. We will camp in the van in the summer but winter camping would be rare.
4. I won’t keep the van forever and the closer to stock the van is, at time of sale, the easier the van will be to sell. Any updates must be minimally invasive and cost effective. (Working under the assumption that upgrades are worth, at best, 50% of their value at time of sale). For this reason I also don’t want to cut into the skin of the van.
5. I’m an ex mechanic. Permanent changes like things glued to walls and other changes that make repair work difficult drive mechanics crazy and raise repair costs.
6. The van has the cab insulation option and it is much quieter than my 2011 without the option, so no plans to touch the cab until I understand exactly what that package included (does anyone know?)
After reading through all the insulation posts I came to the conclusion that I own a metal garden shed with wheels. So I decided to approach insulation from that perspective and focus first on radiant heat barriers in the roof and glass. I’m also in the apparel industry so I am familiar with apparel insulation. My Columbia OmniTech insulated vest was also an inspiration as it has a radiant barrier and reflects substantially more heat than a vest without the OmniTech lining.
Overall I’m not trying to crest a climate controlled environment. Just trying to improve conditions a bit.
Plan
1. Sound dampening - because I already had torn the interior apart. I used Second Skin from Arizona, 1mm B grade because there is a lot to cover. U.S. made and glue tested in the Arizona heat. This is the second time I have used this product and I like it. I did 50-60% coverage and the complete wheel wells. REALLY BIG difference. The interior volume has dropped enough that people hear the difference when I’m on the MB phone mic. Downside? I can now hear squeak and rattles in my gear that I never heard before. Road noise, speed bump noise, tire whine all substantially reduced.
2. Roof insulation - Second Skin Heat Wave Pro attached to the HEADLINER with 3M 90 (not to the roof) so there is a reflective air gap between the headliner and the roof. HWP is 3/8 denim insulation with reflective material on both sides. This insulation is generally light and quiet. I made individual batts and sealed them before attaching them to the headliner so moisture should not be an issue.
Unfortunately - I really won’t know how well all this works for another few months but the last few days in the PNW have been sunny and it seems like less heat is coming through the roof.
Floor insulation - 3/8 in Stall mats cut to fit. For my application, the durability, sound and heat reducing properties along with easy removal for cleaning can’t be beat for the price.
3. Windows - in the next months I will replace at least one and probably both crew windows. with window-in-a-window slider windows to improve airflow and then I’ll have 3M non-tinted Crystalline series UV blocking film placed on the front windshield band and all other glass.
3. Walls - Crew inserts removed and replaced with the plastics from a cargo van, simply because they a durable and, most importantly, easy to clean. Wall insulation plan is undecided at this time but my thought is to cover the interior plastic panels with radiant Mylar (glued on) using the dead air space that exists between the panels and the outer sheetmetal.
If winter camping becomes a consideration. I will sew Thinsulate inserts that can be attached to the interior walls.
I’ll add some pictures. Hopefully they help someone for some project they have in mind.