Differential Rear End and other Fluid History

220629

Well-known member
A bit of T1N Differential fluid history from another thread.

Gotta love oil threads.

beatdeadhorse.gif

My 2004 Operator Manual specifies this:

2004ManualOilSpec01.jpg

It didn't change for 2006. Still MB235.0

2006ManualOilSpec01.jpg


I have read official MB literature where MB specifically states that the Operator Manual which came with the vehicle is always in effect.
(That said, at one time the manuals advocated a one time and done automatic transmission fluid change. Does anyone follow that anymore?)

Added Reference:


https://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/service_and_parts/owners_manuals
Unfortunately Sprinters don't seem to be included on the drop down selections.


So by the above 2004/2006 manual, MB235.0 will always be good [for my 2004/2006].

The Shell Spirax MB 90 product mentioned in the 2004 manual doesn't claim to be synthetic.
https://www.smithandallan.com/documents/Spirax_MB_90_(en)_TDS.pdf


MB235.0 Spec
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/235.0_en.html
Not all of the MB235.0 differential fluids listed are synthetic. There are various viscosities.

MB235.8 was mentioned previously as approved for Sprinters.
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/235.8_en.html
Not all of the MB235.8 differential fluids listed are synthetic. There is one viscosity. 75W-90.

Another thread had me looking back into BeVo. The synthetic gear oil sheet caught my eye.

In BeVo synthetic gear oil has a category.
(Synthetic gear oils (SAE 75W-85W, Specification 235.4)
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/235.4_en.html

First.
I am not saying to not use a synthetic gear oil in your transmission oops... differential.

But.
For a T1N, I see nothing in BeVo that would support that only synthetic lube needs be used in a Sprinter differential.

My point?
If you have refilled your differential with a good quality GL5 hypoid gear oil which is not synthetic, there is no reason to worry or panic. A conventional gear oil should probably be changed on a more conservative OCI vs a synthetic, but using a quality conventional gear oil instead of synthetic won't grenade your differential. My guess is that there are many, many Sprinters owned by people who don't frequent Sprinter forums or use dealership service which are filled with Mobil 1 85w-90 or other non-MB approved fluid and doing fine.

75W-140 viscosity was listed for the early T1N differentials. It does say synthetic.

2002ManualOilSpec.jpg

It could be argued that the reduction in newer models to 75W-90 was directly related to meeting mpg/emissions regulations. If that is true, it would follow that synthetic 75W-140 is ok for other year T1N's. (Some owners do already report using 75W-140.)

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=681977#post681977

View attachment 104947

Brake Fluid

An aside.
Note that in the 2002 manual DOT 4 brake fluid is listed as correct, not DOT 4+.
Because the original MB Operator Manual ALWAYS applies, DOT 4 brake fluid is appropriate to use in the earlier model NAS aka NAFTA T1N's. (I have read where some of the DOT 4+ formulations are more susceptible to picking up water vs DOT 4 so 4+ needs more frequent maintenance changes. The 4+ dry boiling point starts higher, but tumbles more quickly. I use DOT 4.)

:2cents: vic
Still can't decide what is best for your rear???
Then purchase differential fluid from a Mercede$ Dealer$hip, or follow what Dennis posted below for Mobil 1 synthetic.

Simply go into an autoparts store/Wallyworld and purchase 3 qrt bottles 75/90 Mobil 1 SYNTHETIC [#104361] gear oil and then it will be like a Tacoma.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/MOBIL-10...93696&wl11=online&wl12=40905568&wl13=&veh=sem
Dun Dun and Done
Dennis
 
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220629

Well-known member
T1N Engine Coolant

The 2004 Owner Manual specifically mentions Zerex G05 coolant. (Refer above to Post #1.)

The 2006 specifies some other choices.

2006ManualOilSpec01.jpg

Euro Peak Coolant Antifreeze, OLD WORLD INDUSTRIES
Zerex G05
Zerex G48
Glysantin G05, BASF AG
Mopar 05066386AA or equiv.

Old World Industries (Peak) is not a small time operation. They manufacture/blend/package products for many different brand labels. From my research the Peak products are considered a quality choice which is still reasonably priced.

For those recommending dealership products only because Zerex G05 doesn't have a Mercedes label... there it is above in writing from my 2006 manual. Zerex G05 and the other listings are fine per Mother Mercedes.

:cheers: vic

Added:

Why Do We Need HOAT G05 Coolant?
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72398

A reply to an older post.

G48 is very similar to G-05.
...
My understanding is that the G48 formulation was required to meet Euro standards. I believe it relates to their regs... phosphate free. (Maybe gleaned from previous BeVo information?)

There is no reason to stray from the G05 HOAT formulation if you are in N. America.
It appears that Zerex G05 has fallen off the list for MB325.0 coolant. Not because it isn't approved at all, but because it is no longer approved for Euro markets. It has been listed in Owner/Operator Manuals so it remains approved. MB states that the Operator Manual always applies (evergreen).

Added:
"The G-30 is basically the same as DexCool.

The G-05 has more reserve alkalinity than the G-48 and has replaced G-48 as factory fill for Mercedes. [I believe G48 has replaced G05. - vic] They both originate with BASF in Germany in the Glysantin line:

http://www.basf.de/en/produkte/chemikalien/spezial/glysantin/productrange/?id=G0qgQ5i2wbsf1i6

The G-48 is nitrite-free, which means unlike G-05 it can�t be used with wet sleeves. G-05 has a smidgeon more silicate than G-48.

And its [G48] availability in North America is thin, indeed. Valvoline suggests using G-05 to replace it."
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=613531

Zerex G05 has properties which G48 does not.
Nitrites = protect against cavitation.
More reserve alkalinity = longer coolant service life.
Also. (Not G05 specific.)
Carboxylates = cavitation protection.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/841/coolant-fundamentals

Use G-05 in your T1N. Your head gasket will thank you. Replace every 5 years or 100k. Which ever comes first. Nothing lasts forever.

Also, running your van diluted by DI/distilled water isn't the best idea. Running it for 3 seconds won't do anything. Run it for 5 minutes and you may find that your water pump has started to weep a bit and then full on leak. Water is a decent lubricant but coolant DOES add proper lubrication for the water pump. I used to do the distilled water flush ~10 years ago in Saabs cuz I thought it was brilliant. It's not.
:thumbup:

My mode is to change the coolant on the proper schedule. Coolant changed on proper schedule is perfectly serviceable product. It is toxic waste to the EPA, but not to your engine. I won't use any flush chemicals or procedures unless visual inspection or symptoms show the need.

:2cents: vic
I found the article which I linked above very informative.
(I'm partial to most of the stuff that Chevron publishes. It generally includes practical application information, not just warnings and scare tactics.) :2cents:

Engine Coolant Basics
Paul Fritz, Chevron

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/841/coolant-fundamentals
 
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