Changing the oil and filter on a T1N 2.7L 5 cylinder diesel engine is relatively straight-forward, but proper oil filter seating on the drain sealing stem is critical. It has been reported that an improperly seated oil filter element can lead to a lack of oil supply to the engine. I am reminded of proper filter element seating every time I change my oil. I think that I have set the filter on all the way, then I push a bit more and sure enough there is a snap as it seats further down. On my filters it takes a bit of pressure to properly seat.
Changing the oil is fairly simple. You need a 13mm hex socket or hex wrench for the pan plug. An oil filter cap wrench (74.5 mm size). A large oil catch container (at least 12 quart... even bigger for NCV3, but this is the T1N section). Some cardboard if you're sloppy like I can be. An oil filter and 9 quarts of MB approved engine oil (it calls for 9.5, but don't overfill it because there is a high oil level warning which will trigger if you put too much in). I start the oil draining underneath and then immediately go up and remove the oil filter cap assembly until it sits loosely on the housing. I'm told that helps to drain more oil out. One gotcha is that the oil really shoots out of the drain plug so have the catch container wall positioned so it is far enough away that it doesn't overshoot. (The catch pan should probably not be centered to the drain.)
Righty tighty, lefty loosey works to remove and re-install the black plastic oil filter cap. For those who need a torque value "The closing torque of 25 n-m is in raised lettering on the cap." per TH43. (19 foot pounds = 25.8 N-m)
A more formal description without the colloquialism.
I use two hands to squeeze the filter down into position. I needed one for the camera, so you need to use your imagination.
Look for the ridge to be in this position.
The large O-ring goes in the top groove. (At least that's where mine has always been.) Verify that the O-ring is uniformly seated in the groove. Always lube the O-ring with a bit of engine oil or Vaseline before installation.
Edit:
My 2006 oil filter cap has only one groove which the O-ring fits. It appears the design is changed since 2004.
Another thing to double check is that the cap is fully seated. Even if you use a torque wrench visually verify that it is seated. There should be no gap between the aluminum housing and the filter cap.
It seems like basic stuff, but there have been comments that if the oil filter is not properly seated it can reduce oil flow and have serious consequences with the engine not getting enough oil pressure. FWIW. vic
Some oil filter brands discussion is here.
Oil Filter Comparison Hengst (german), STP & Mobile 1 brands
Info Thread
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22896
******************
The Hengst E11H D57 oil filters don't "snap".
CAUTION
If the filter drain sealing stem breaks off do not install the filter without addressing the problem. Having no drain sealing stem may lead to low oil pressure and engine damage.
Changing the oil is fairly simple. You need a 13mm hex socket or hex wrench for the pan plug. An oil filter cap wrench (74.5 mm size). A large oil catch container (at least 12 quart... even bigger for NCV3, but this is the T1N section). Some cardboard if you're sloppy like I can be. An oil filter and 9 quarts of MB approved engine oil (it calls for 9.5, but don't overfill it because there is a high oil level warning which will trigger if you put too much in). I start the oil draining underneath and then immediately go up and remove the oil filter cap assembly until it sits loosely on the housing. I'm told that helps to drain more oil out. One gotcha is that the oil really shoots out of the drain plug so have the catch container wall positioned so it is far enough away that it doesn't overshoot. (The catch pan should probably not be centered to the drain.)
Righty tighty, lefty loosey works to remove and re-install the black plastic oil filter cap. For those who need a torque value "The closing torque of 25 n-m is in raised lettering on the cap." per TH43. (19 foot pounds = 25.8 N-m)
A more formal description without the colloquialism.
Here's some pictures of what I find works to assure the filter is pressed all the way onto the drain sealing stem. Sorry for the poor picture quality. I didn't look at the pictures until the oil change was complete. I wasn't going to change my filter again to get better pictures.The cover is a right-hand thread, so clockwise tightens it, anti-clockwise loosens it.
--dick
I use two hands to squeeze the filter down into position. I needed one for the camera, so you need to use your imagination.
Look for the ridge to be in this position.
The large O-ring goes in the top groove. (At least that's where mine has always been.) Verify that the O-ring is uniformly seated in the groove. Always lube the O-ring with a bit of engine oil or Vaseline before installation.
Edit:
My 2006 oil filter cap has only one groove which the O-ring fits. It appears the design is changed since 2004.
Another thing to double check is that the cap is fully seated. Even if you use a torque wrench visually verify that it is seated. There should be no gap between the aluminum housing and the filter cap.
It seems like basic stuff, but there have been comments that if the oil filter is not properly seated it can reduce oil flow and have serious consequences with the engine not getting enough oil pressure. FWIW. vic
Some oil filter brands discussion is here.
Oil Filter Comparison Hengst (german), STP & Mobile 1 brands
Info Thread
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22896
******************
The Hengst E11H D57 oil filters don't "snap".
******************Today I used my first Hengst filter. The Hengst filter slips right on with no "snap". In fact, the lower end of the Hengst filter is quite loose and sloppy. It appears that the felt like washer is used to hold the Hengst filter into place once the oil filter cap/spike is fully seated.
...
To be clear, I see no real problem with the the Hengst filter. The main reason I mention all this is for Hengst users to know that they will not have as much problem with the Hengst filter seating home. There is no distinct "snap" needed. (Maybe that is an advantage?)
View attachment 81521
Some pictures of the various oil filters can be found in this thread.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22896
CAUTION
If the filter drain sealing stem breaks off do not install the filter without addressing the problem. Having no drain sealing stem may lead to low oil pressure and engine damage.
I have not found any data....
In my unit, that tip [drain sealing stem with O-ring] was broken off and apparently discarded, and then the oil filter reinstalled. Without that tip and O-ring, there is catastrophically low oil pressure. But why? What the heck is going on down there?
McMalakai
After pondering the system design a bit I believe that I have the answer.
The bottom oil seal is a simple drain plug. The German engineers didn't want anyone to need to wait for oil to drain out of the oil canister when changing the filter.
When the drain sealing stem is removed it opens a passage down to the sump to allow the filter canister to drain freely.
Without that drain sealing stem/plug in place some (too much) of your oil pressure was returning to the sump rather than going out to where it is needed.
Assuming that my theory is correct (I believe that it is) you would think that Mother Mercedes would publish some cautions about the need for that filter drain sealing stem to be intact. A small bleed orifice might be a better solution.
vic
Added:
I posted from the original question. Afterward I came upon Dick's post. We were both thinking along the same line. I'm convinced the lower O-ring just plugs a drain. IT DOES!!
Added 2:
A somewhat related thread.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=160116
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