Norcold refrigerator

dlgolder2

New member
Norcold model N3150 refrigerator fails on DC power while traveling. The unit will go to DC power when the motorhome starts but in a short time the display panel flickers and the unit is not functioning. I have to hold the power button down for a few seconds to stop the display from flickering and then turn the unit back on. The process repeats itself each time while on DC. I have not had any problems while using 120 vac or propane.
So in order to keep food cold while traveling I have to lock the unit on propane. I don't like to travel with propane turned on.
Thoughts?
:thinking:
 

Philip53

2021 2500 Sprinter 170, 4 cyl gas
There are numerous threads here regarding the problems encountered when using 12V to power the fridge absorption unit, mainly that the board is overheating due to the high amp load required to operate the fridge. If you search, I think you'll find some repairs that have helped alleviate this problem. I have had several RV's and would never use the 12V option, way too many amps needed on 12 volts. I know many others would not consider using propane, but I don't see it. Have never had a problem, and while anything can happen, odds are extremely slim. Heck, my wife would not let me install a gas stove in any of our homes--seems when she was young, a house blew up nearby due to a gas leak. And for her, gas in a house is a deal breaker, but does not object at all to the propane in the RV, I guess because there is not really a viable option (for our use). To each is own--good luck on fixing it.
 

john61ct

Active member
If the alt is putting out enough amps, and your wiring is solid, maybe a 12V-12V converter (voltage stabiliser) will help.

Only for while driving of course.

When time comes, forget propane completely, get one of those new-fangled compressor type fridges, Engel ARB etc
 

Wine Country

Active member
The problem is not the wire, but the PC board. I have had a DC fuse and a AC fuse blow. The replacing of fuses fix it. My 15 VG had a bad therm switch, my exhaust fan never worked. I replaced the switch, it is up top on right hand side connected to the frame . Now I hear the very quiet fan when it's warm outside.
I once picked up my View and ran the fridge on DC until I got to my campground. It worked but I think a 12 hour pre cool is better on AC or Propaine.
I think changing the inverter circuit to allow the fridge to run on AC would be a consideration. The AC amp draw is low, the AC circuit on the PC board is better, my 1000 watt inverter would do the job well, when you camp you need to change it to Propaine unless you are plugged in.
 

WinnieView1

Well-known member
Norcold model N3150 refrigerator fails on DC power while traveling. The unit will go to DC power when the motorhome starts but in a short time the display panel flickers and the unit is not functioning. I have to hold the power button down for a few seconds to stop the display from flickering and then turn the unit back on. The process repeats itself each time while on DC. I have not had any problems while using 120 vac or propane.
So in order to keep food cold while traveling I have to lock the unit on propane. I don't like to travel with propane turned on.
Thoughts?
:thinking:
Another interesting 'quirk' of ours is that almost every time we turn it on prior to a trip running on propane to pre-cool it doesn't. Everything seemingly operates normally however it doesn't cool even after 24-48 hours. When we turn it off and back on again it immediately starts to cool and gets down to set point temperature within just a few hours.

We have owned a hand full of Norcold units and this seems to be one of the most troublesome. Except for maybe the two 1200's which had to have three different recall modifications added. But we still get an annual $21/year reimbursement check for inconveniences caused by those. ;)
 

Alphacarina

2006 Itasca Navion 23H
We needed AC power for several things while not plugged in and/or not running the genset, so I installed a little 600 watt pure sine wave inverter. Our fridge doesn't even have a 12 volt option, just propane and AC power, so I added an AC pigtail and a 4 pole double pole switch and now I can choose where the fridge gets it's AC power - From shore power or the genset as usual, or flip the switch and run it off the inverter while traveling. Replacing a faulty inverter is probably cheaper than replacing the 12 volt board in some of the newer refrigerators?? - Maybe easier too??

Don
 

showkey

Well-known member
Some of us have figured out........propane operation at all times is the best solution.

12v operation had some design flaws from day one. There’s a really good reason many the Units did not offer 12v. Option.
 

john61ct

Active member
I completely disagree, DC Compressor fridges are best for 99% of use cases, even a built-in shore power option is unnecessary.

Propane-only may be better for some, but I can't think of any.

I completely understand those with a comfort level with what they're used to, and everyone's allowed their quirky preferences! maybe propane can be cheaper long-term?

But certainly not in general a better option.
 

Wine Country

Active member
Our three way frig are smaller, can have issues with fuses, need to be level, and need a cool down time of 24 hours before you put in groceries. They can have issues in very cold below freezing or very hot days but adding fans in the upper vent is a fix over the single fan installed in my View, oh I have had very good luck with my frig in hot weather once I fixed my therm switch that allows the fan to work.
The new Norcolds are a battery hog. WGO fixes this with the battery options, more solar, and it looks like more diesel gens are showing up at my Seattle area dealer. Level is not a problem, larger box. For many it will work well. If you go to RV parks, you will love it. If you boondock you may not be happy.
My question is noise? The View D bed is in back of the fridge. My G has no noise, except if I put my ear to the frigid and get a small whine of the exhaust fan. I hate sounds, my sailboat had a Norcold cold plate, I had two sets of GC batteries and could hear the unit cycle every other 5 min or so.
 

Alphacarina

2006 Itasca Navion 23H
Some of us have figured out........propane operation at all times is the best solution.

12v operation had some design flaws from day one. There’s a really good reason many the Units did not offer 12v. Option.
I agree some 3 way units had/have problems . . . . but for any activity done in as many diverse ways as RVing, having options is better than not having them

2 way units have been around . . . . forever and seem pretty well sorted out - Propane or a small 120 volt heater. My 'suggestion' was just that adding a DC option to a 2 way fridge using an inverter to power the existing 120 volt heater is a fairly bullet-proof way to gain the 3rd option. I like closing my propane valve and using DC while traveling . . . . when DC is plentiful, so adding that didn't cost much more than an inexpensive inverter, which I needed for other things anyway, so . . . . why not??

I used DC compressor fridges on my sailboats for 20 years and they made all the sense in the world. Very efficient since the evaporator is sea water cooled, which is something we can't do in an RV, but as much as I liked them, for RVing, I want . . . . options!

Don
 

chefrufus

New member
Norcold model N3150 refrigerator fails on DC power while traveling. The unit will go to DC power when the motorhome starts but in a short time the display panel flickers and the unit is not functioning. I have to hold the power button down for a few seconds to stop the display from flickering and then turn the unit back on. The process repeats itself each time while on DC. I have not had any problems while using 120 vac or propane.
So in order to keep food cold while traveling I have to lock the unit on propane. I don't like to travel with propane turned on.
Thoughts?
:thinking:
We had a similar problem on our Navion 2016. it worked perfectly on propane or 120v, not working on 12v. We hate driving around with an open flame, so had to fix or buy a new fridge ($$$$$).
We checked the 12v ohms, it tested ok. The other suggestion for 12v malfunction was replacing the board. We installed a new board but it had a communication issue so we put the old board back in after replacing the 20a fuse on it, even though the 20a fuse had tested ok. —There are 2 fuses on the board, we only replaced the 20a, but both should be checked.- Surprisingly it started working on 12v again when engine runs. Serendipity or a fix? It may be worth a try after cheching proper output on 12v heating element. A couple of hours and a $2 part.
 

Wine Country

Active member
My 3150 has needed the 12 vac fuse twice, the 120 AC twice, ok three times. In April I replaced the 120 only to have it blow when we were having wind/power issues. I replaced that fuse with a slow blow fuse. No issues.
Most large Coaches have 2 way and have no issues on propane when driving.
 

Shipsmate

New member
For my N3150 whereas the 12v circuit did not work, I purchased a new board which comes WITH display panel (it’s a revised 25 amp!! fused board purchased through Rvfridgeguys) fixed my problems. Just leave on auto and all 3 modes switch over properly. The fridge is in a 2015 Navion which is near impossible to remove so I disassembled the wood air diverter and notched the backboard to R&R the circuit board (remove sealant and 4 screws and a couple staples which will pull out when you remove bottom board. Reinstalled the notched out backboard with duct tape and put lower board back in place. NO NEED TO REMOVE FRIDGE!7831CA44-79A6-420D-85B7-E13FF45ADE4D.jpeg
 

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