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Old 10-19-2017, 12:16 AM   #1
Kiltym
 
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Default Fresh water drain valve

Our flip up style drain valve that is mounted underneath the water heater is slowly dripping out the drain hose.

It was sealed fine, and then we drained all the water because of freezing temps. Probably the first time the valve has ever been used. Then refilled everything once we left the area.

Now when in the closed position, it drips steadily out the hose by the rear wheel. I have tried opening and closing many time, but it does not close 100% anymore.

Does anyone have a name for that type of valve? Not even sure what to search.

Many ways to fix the issue, but if possible to find a similar valve thatís would be nice.
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Old 10-19-2017, 12:19 AM   #2
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Default Re: Fresh water drain valve

Talking pressure relief valve???

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=...a-276514397697
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Last edited by Old Crows; 10-19-2017 at 12:23 AM.
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Old 10-19-2017, 12:23 AM   #3
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Default Re: Fresh water drain valve

No.

The valve on the floor under the hot water tank used to drain the water from all plumbing lines.

Pressure release valve is mounted directly to the front of the water heater.

Although now my leaking drain valve is certainly behaving like a pressure release valve :).
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Old 10-19-2017, 01:17 AM   #4
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Default Re: Fresh water drain valve

Don't know name.of valve but might search winterizing as folks have written about bypassing heater, etc., for freezing weather.

The Suburban hot water heater has an anode rod which is sacrificial.and should be replaced at least once per year.

Instructions are posted elsewhere in this subforum. Make sure to release the water pressure BEFORE removing the anode rod--otherwise, the rod will fly like a rocket--VERY DANGEROUS.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ight=Anode+rod

Different versions of the anode rod.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...rban+anode+rod

Note: Early Westies had a 3 gallon tank and later Westies may have had a 4 gallon tank heater.

There is a hot water heater cleaning wand which you can buy. It is a narrow plastic wand which you attach to a hose and can insert in the anode rod opening and flush out the sediment. Lots and lots of sediment. Camco 11691 Water Heater Tank Rinser. Or make your own.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ds=Camco+11691

This thread suggests changing the pressure relief valve and a how-to-make-own wand.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...t+water+heater

The flip-up valve probably has sediment in it from opening the valve.

Once you remove anode rod, flush out heater, flush out flip up drain valve, replace anode rod (with teflon wrap), etc., the leak may go away.

Last edited by OldWest; 10-19-2017 at 01:41 AM. Reason: Add links.
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Old 10-19-2017, 01:31 PM   #5
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Default Re: Fresh water drain valve

Not on the OP topic, but you don't want to use teflon tape on the anode rod, it needs to be in an electrical circuit with the rest of the metal of the tank in order to protect it by sacrificing itself.

Probably have to pull the hot water heater to get any access to the drain valve the OP was referring to.
Rob
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Old 10-19-2017, 03:28 PM   #6
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Default Re: Fresh water drain valve

I think I can get the valve out without removing the tank. Will post an update once I try. Will need some short screwdrivers, and it’s not clear how the drain hose is attached until I can lift it up.

Regarding tape on the rod, I suspect the tape will rip enough at the high points of the threads to still allow contact. Google has lots of in about this.
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Old 10-21-2017, 07:00 PM   #7
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Default Re: Fresh water drain valve

I've never used that stupid valve. I just pull the anode rod, flush out the tank with a wand, and let it air out a bit. I just replaced my water OE water heater with a new one a few months ago. FWIW, the black Gerstner box on the floor of the compartment is velcro'd to the floor. Gentle prying should get it up and slid over enough for you to probably access that valve...
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Old 10-21-2017, 11:38 PM   #8
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Default Re: Fresh water drain valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by Riptide View Post
I've never used that stupid valve.
Since mine is leaking, I would recommend avoiding it :).

I wanted to drain all the plumbing inside, and was not sure the anode removal would do this. So I followed the guidance in the manual to use this flip up drain valve. It worked fine to drain everything, which was nice.

I found a replacement, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Flair-Degree-.../dp/B00FFAZDRU

I still have not removed the valve as we are travelling right now. Once I do I will take some photos. I will try to save the existing valve first and see if I can get it functioning again before replacing with something new.
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Old 10-22-2017, 12:54 AM   #9
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Default Re: Fresh water drain valve

Since annual maintenance requires removal and replacement of the anode rod anyways, might try maintenance and flushing out heater, then flushing out and working the valve--as long as there is sediment in the tank, if you open the valve (old one or new replacement one), sediment may cause valve not to shut completely.

After removing old valve, can try swishing the valve in a bucket of water while opening and closing the valve to wash out any sediment.

Other possibility is that any rubber washer, if any, has taken a particular shape. Maybe can be replaced.

Last edited by OldWest; 10-22-2017 at 12:57 AM. Reason: Add remark re any washer.
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Old 11-03-2017, 08:11 PM   #10
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Default Re: Fresh water drain valve

Still have not had time to remove the valve or flush it, will get to it next week I hope (or maybe not based on below).

In looking for a valve, I found this:

https://www.leisureshopdirect.com/el...-truma-boilers

Truma part #: 70141-02

The interesting thing about it is that it is a "safety" valve (3.5 bar). Presumably this valve was from the pre-Airstream modifications for the Truma that the European version has installed. So it is not actually just a drain valve, but also a pressure release valve for use with the Truma water heater.

I did first notice the leak after using the water heater, so perhaps it leaks before the pressure release valve built into the Suburban heater we have installed.

So, perhaps no leak at all, and normal operation. I will have to check the psi ratings on the relief valve and see which one should leak first.....
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