OM612 Engine Harness Remove and Replace

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
This is my write up for the OM612 engine harness replacement: Part No. A9015402107.
Capture.JPG

This project is not for the faint of heart. Master mechanics time it at (supposedly) 4 hours. But they have experience of having done it before, the tools and the space that facilitates the removal and replacement. Other DIYyers claim that they can do it in 6 or 7 hours. It took me closer to 24 hours.
Scream.JPG
Many of the cable ties and electrical connectors are in locations that are hard to get to, several are obscured and several have to be removed and reconnected blind and with little working room. In short, if you can find a shop to do this job at a labor time of 4 hours – run, do not walk – to deliver your van to them and pay them to do the work. If done correctly, you will not regret it. Unfortunately for me, Dr. A pushed me off to Freightliner. When I called and talked to my local Annapolis Freightliner, they said that they would get back with me. They never did. That speaks volumes.

Even though I asked Sprinter-Source members for years to provide guidance from their experiences on replacing an OM612 harness, no one did. The closest help I found was from a posting by JP Cables of Freightliner’s instructions to remove the OM612 manifold – which requires the complete removal of the engine harness but preserving it for re-installation. While it was great guidance, I could not tell what steps where necessary just for the harness removal and replacement v. the manifold replacement.

I have now performed this job. Below I have extensively edited the Freightliner instructions to remove what I think are the steps related only to the manifold removal and replacement, additions for steps that seem to be missed, additional pictures and other guidance. Some steps seem needlessly out of order, but I did not do much to re-order Freightliner’s steps. Reader beware – I may be wrong and I do not represent this as correct.
View attachment OM612 Harness Replacement Guidance HKP.pdf

[HKP> added note] the S-hose from under the manifold to the auxiliary circulating pump located on the firewall is A9018325123. That part does not appear to be readily available in the US except for Europarts SD. The aftermarket part is found for 5124867AA. But that part is for the OM647. The part will kink closed if used as delivered. It will work after a fashion is you cut about 2.5 inches off the pump side of the hose, and wiggle to let the hose settle in the least-kinked position.

[HKP> added note 2] The OM612 harness is no longer available - at least in the US. It is still listed on some UK and RU sites. If anyone orders and receives a harness from those sources - PLEASE REPORT this info to Sprinter-Source.
 
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hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
When I unpacked my OM612 engine harness, if I am reading it correctly, I noticed there was a discrepancy in the manufacture dates. The packaging said January 30, 2018.
HPA120044 (2).jpg

However, the tag on the harness itself says September 9, 2004
HNumber date.jpg
 

outbound

06/2500/140
dont feel bad hk - replacing the harness on my 2006/OM647 MIGHT'VE taken me not much longer than the 3.5hrs linden quotes it at,
but for the fact that i couldnt for the life of me figure out how to get the ECU connector thru the firewall - until --dick found/posted instructions that
still werent quite correct on how to dissassemble the connector (they mustave started using a different mfr or model of connector since the manual was written)
but i did finally getter done, would call it about 10hours in my case, BUT BOY OH BOY WAS IT WORTH DOING!

dang thang now runs better than it ever has, no turbo dropping out, no stalling when cold, more BST, less LOD, more get up and GO
 
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220629

Well-known member
...

However, the tag on the harness itself says September 9, 2004
View attachment 102462
Maybe. Interpreting numbers on replacement parts can have pitfalls. Sometimes the Euro dates begin with the year.

Another common code which is used for electronics is the number of the week of the year it was manufactured. The code could also have something to do with the last revision on the part.

Thanks for the information and Write-up. :thumbup:

:cheers: vic
 

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
I went looking for where my non-reproducable/random electrical problems that would shut the engine down might be in my old harness. I couldn't find it. The worse wear was all the way through the protective cover where (OEM) it was tied to the AC line next to where the harness goes through the fire wall (picture below). But there was no sign of any wire worn through.
harness wear AC.jpg
At the harness attach point behind the fuel filter, the protective cover was worn but not worn through. Nor any sign of worn wires. :idunno:

Thus far I have not had a recurrence. But it will be a while before I am confident that the problem has been solved.


Here is what the main part of the harness looks like on the inside - many twisted pairs and many straight runs.
harness wear wires.jpg

I have trashed it.
 

220629

Well-known member
Still available.
Black death can ruin connectors. Sometime they get damaged.

If it were me I would chop off all of the connectors leaving decent tails, and store them in a small box or plastic bag. I'd keep them until either I needed one, or someone was looking for one that I had on hand. But... I'm a hoarder.

:cheers: vic
 
B

billintomahawk

Guest
HK,
I am still a little unclear about the rub point on my '02. Could you supply a location picture?
I'd like to pad mine like you did in the pdf.I'm assuming it could be done without removing the harness.

bill in tomahawk
 
D

Deleted member 50714

Guest
Excellent write-up! I am curious if a heat wrap Would be beneficial?
 
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D

Deleted member 50714

Guest
HK,
I am still a little unclear about the rub point on my '02. Could you supply a location picture?
I'd like to pad mine like you did in the pdf.I'm assuming it could be done without removing the harness.

bill in tomahawk
Me too. Just curious.
 

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hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
HK,
I am still a little unclear about the rub point on my '02. Could you supply a location picture?
I'd like to pad mine like you did in the pdf.I'm assuming it could be done without removing the harness.

bill in tomahawk
I put some gorilla tape around the loom where the AC wear point happened.

PB050045s.jpg
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
I put some gorilla tape around the loom where the AC wear point happened.
You really should not cable tie (zip tie) the wiring loom to the air con pipe as the cable tie will fret the alloy pipe and ultimately cause an air con leak. I suggest you find some other way of keeping the look off the air con pipe.

Been there, done that, got the T shirt!

Keith.
 
Reviving for a quick question:

I'm pulling the engine and transmission and will replace engine wiring harness while I have it out to have cylinder head repaired/replaced.

It looks like there are only three connectors on the "ECU" side of the harness. Are they easily found under the dash/instrument panel and pulled through the firewall?


I'd like to pull the engine with the harness attached so I can route the new one in like manner.

Thanks.

One more question for HKP or someone else in the know:

The end of the .pdf instructions possibly imply that the manifold was replaced under warranty (recall?). If this is the case, did you get a dealership to give you the manifold for replacement under the 02-03 intake manifold recall?

I'm planning on requesting the manifold from local dealership, and it would be helpful if there was precedent.
 
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Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Others can confirm, but the plugs are on the ECU itself. You may need to disassemble the plastic back shell in order to separate them, and fit them through the firewall. The 02-03 service manual should have a diagram somewhere.
 

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
It looks like there are only three connectors on the "ECU" side of the harness. Are they easily found under the dash/instrument panel and pulled through the firewall?
Once you pull the ECU down and out of its mounting bracket and disengage the connectors, there is no problem feeding the connectors through the firewall.

I'd like to pull the engine with the harness attached so I can route the new one in like manner.
That should not be a problem.


The end of the .pdf instructions possibly imply that the manifold was replaced under warranty (recall?). If this is the case, did you get a dealership to give you the manifold for replacement under the 02-03 intake manifold recall?
Actually, the status of the recall is discussed in the front of the PDF. What is at the end of the PDF is from the original Freightliner/Dodge documentation on the recall. The recall is no longer applicable. You are on your own.
 
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HKP, I should have said it right away: Thanks for a great write-up. I couldn't find the info regarding the end of the recall. That is a bummer though. Back in 2013 I was told it wouldn't expire. Oh well, things change.
 

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
Back in 2013 I was told it wouldn't expire. Oh well, things change.
My lifetime warranty on the my Sprinter Bosch alternator from Europarts SD turned out to be valid only for what Bosch defined as "lifetime" by Bosch - and 10 years was beyond life. It was even less for my Garmin GPS with lifetime map updates. For Sprinters, lifetime is defined as 15 years.
 

220629

Well-known member
...
Actually, the status of the recall is discussed in the front of the PDF. What is at the end of the PDF is from the original Freightliner/Dodge documentation on the recall. The recall is no longer applicable. You are on your own.
If an owner is concerned with the safety aspect of the recall there is an easy DIY solution.

If I recall correctly the replacement manifold doesn't have a threaded plug which the OEM manifolds had. The danger the recall addressed was that some OEM manifolds had burned through in the area of the plug and directed hot gases on the firewall insulation. The firewall insulation would subsequently cook and could possibly catch fire.

A simple aluminum sheet or other metal can be positioned on the firewall to prevent burning the insulation. That addresses the fire concern. The metal will need periodic inspection for signs of heating. If the manifold does burn through fumes can be a problem with or without the metal guard.

To my knowledge it is IF the manifold fails, not WHEN. Do with this information what you will.

AND, back to the replacement harness Write-up topic.

:2cents: vic
 
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lindenengineering

Well-known member
In short there are none, totally obsolete.
Occasionally you might get a good used take off on places like Fleabay , but these days we just make our own "in house" using parts and pieces from our own defunct take off's. with new American wiring
Even the sockets are un-obtianium.
Dennis
 
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