Rear Door Sensor Disable?
- Thread starter bbartels
- Start date
Nautamaran
2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
Assuming a cargo van, connecting the top Pad #1 to Pad #3 should mimic “not ajar; locked”.
(You may need to also put a resistance between pins 1 & 2 to mimic the lock motor)
-dave
(You may need to also put a resistance between pins 1 & 2 to mimic the lock motor)
-dave
Attachments
I was able to get the rear door sensor working again! Thanks so much for your help
edit. I attempted to bridge the connector but found it to be a risky solution (no motor resistance). So I took apart the rear door and found the broken cables and reattached them with heat shrink. Seemed sturdy enough we'll see how many miles it lasts
edit. I attempted to bridge the connector but found it to be a risky solution (no motor resistance). So I took apart the rear door and found the broken cables and reattached them with heat shrink. Seemed sturdy enough we'll see how many miles it lasts
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autostaretx
Erratic Member
I was looking for info which comes close to this thread. For the two years that I've been using my 2002 T1N the locking system has been doing the lock/unlock dance which bbartels has experienced. A few days ago I removed the lock which had a fair bit of red bull dust through the mechanism, but even after a 'Judy Clean' the 'ajar' switch was not working.
I cut the two leads and removed the switch, which appears to be well sealed. However, a bit of contact cleaner got into it and it works fine now. But the door still had a locking problem. The locked/unlocked switches in the solenoid assembly itself are not switching. I'm assuming they simply follow the plunger position. I've tried to take the side off the switch but it appears to be welded on. Makes sense as everything but the heavy mechanism is fairly well dust protected.
Has anyone successfully or otherwise disassembled one of these solenoid units? It's what is referred to as the 'door lock motor' but from it's size and weight I'm guessing it is simply a solenoid. All suggestions or ideas appreciated before I resort to a bigger hammer.
Bob M, 2002 MWB 4x4 in Murrumba Downs Qld
I cut the two leads and removed the switch, which appears to be well sealed. However, a bit of contact cleaner got into it and it works fine now. But the door still had a locking problem. The locked/unlocked switches in the solenoid assembly itself are not switching. I'm assuming they simply follow the plunger position. I've tried to take the side off the switch but it appears to be welded on. Makes sense as everything but the heavy mechanism is fairly well dust protected.
Has anyone successfully or otherwise disassembled one of these solenoid units? It's what is referred to as the 'door lock motor' but from it's size and weight I'm guessing it is simply a solenoid. All suggestions or ideas appreciated before I resort to a bigger hammer.
Bob M, 2002 MWB 4x4 in Murrumba Downs Qld
Follow up: I sawed the plate off the actuator and it is indeed a motorized operator. I took a few photos if anyone wishes to see internals. The system is very simple with a single gear reduction to run a shaft which engages the plunger. The plunger follows the door locking mechanism which could be locked/unlocked by key or by inside handle.
There is a very small SPST microswitch which provides the locked/unlocked sensing. The switch on mine was 'dead' with no feel of internal resistance. It was permanently in an 'unlocked' state. I cut the unlocked lead and shunted the black motor lead to the 'locked' line coming out.
The 'lock/unlock/lock/unlock/lock' dance is gone now and the only downside is that if the door was NOT closed when a lock was initiated the door probably would not lock when it was closed. (Not tested yet) I don't know if I can find a replacement microswitch. That would be the easiest repair. Unfortunately it has no markings.
If someone wishes to mail me instructions for attaching jpg/pdf files I can do so.
Bob M, 2002 MWB 4x4 ex-ambo in Brisbane Queensland
There is a very small SPST microswitch which provides the locked/unlocked sensing. The switch on mine was 'dead' with no feel of internal resistance. It was permanently in an 'unlocked' state. I cut the unlocked lead and shunted the black motor lead to the 'locked' line coming out.
The 'lock/unlock/lock/unlock/lock' dance is gone now and the only downside is that if the door was NOT closed when a lock was initiated the door probably would not lock when it was closed. (Not tested yet) I don't know if I can find a replacement microswitch. That would be the easiest repair. Unfortunately it has no markings.
If someone wishes to mail me instructions for attaching jpg/pdf files I can do so.
Bob M, 2002 MWB 4x4 ex-ambo in Brisbane Queensland
autostaretx
Erratic Member
Two "illustrated" takes on posting photos:
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=467
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64377
The first step is to make the image 900 pixels wide (or narrower) and less than 500 Kbytes big (as a file).
...and, not to steal your thunder, here's an image someone else posted long ago (which i grabbed):
--dick
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=467
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64377
The first step is to make the image 900 pixels wide (or narrower) and less than 500 Kbytes big (as a file).
...and, not to steal your thunder, here's an image someone else posted long ago (which i grabbed):
--dick
Thanks for that Dick. The 'clue' is not to use the quick reply. 'Advanced' has the customary paper clip attachment facility.
For all of those who like Irfanview, there are a couple more shortcuts that are handy. Left and right arrows open following and preceding files. Cntl-Y will crop a selection and 'R' and 'L' by themselves rotate right and left.
The photo above is as good as, or better than, mine. I'm going to attach photos of the problem microswitch in the hope someone may be able to identify it or its manufacturer. The latter would help narrow down the thousands available on Digikey.
Thanks for any and all info,
Bob M 2002 LWB 4x4 in Brisbane Queensland
For all of those who like Irfanview, there are a couple more shortcuts that are handy. Left and right arrows open following and preceding files. Cntl-Y will crop a selection and 'R' and 'L' by themselves rotate right and left.
The photo above is as good as, or better than, mine. I'm going to attach photos of the problem microswitch in the hope someone may be able to identify it or its manufacturer. The latter would help narrow down the thousands available on Digikey.
Thanks for any and all info,
Bob M 2002 LWB 4x4 in Brisbane Queensland
Attachments
autostaretx
Erratic Member
I'm amused that none of your posted photos show the other face of the switch.
Are there any markings on it?
Is the "logo" we can see a kind'a rounded "W" in a circle?
(although in the last photo, it looks like the circle has an intentionally "pushed in" straight segment)
At the risk of "little pieces flying everywhere", the microswitch body/casing has very visible "snap-tabs" ... where you could push in a bit (on 4 sides at once?) to release and remove the bottom piece (with the wires attached) from the shell.
It's a guess as to whether the plastic button assembly came with the switch, or if it's an added mechanism around the actual switch.
--dick (digging out his old on-paper Digikey and Allied catalogs... nope, not in there)
Are there any markings on it?
Is the "logo" we can see a kind'a rounded "W" in a circle?
(although in the last photo, it looks like the circle has an intentionally "pushed in" straight segment)
At the risk of "little pieces flying everywhere", the microswitch body/casing has very visible "snap-tabs" ... where you could push in a bit (on 4 sides at once?) to release and remove the bottom piece (with the wires attached) from the shell.
It's a guess as to whether the plastic button assembly came with the switch, or if it's an added mechanism around the actual switch.
--dick (digging out his old on-paper Digikey and Allied catalogs... nope, not in there)
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Good spotting Dick. A better detail of the logo follows, along with the 'actuator'. The actuator is actually part of the switch itself, rather than an 'add on'. I'd call it a button head plastic actuator.
There is nothing molded on the other side of the switch.
You can easily rotate the 'W' with 'R' or 'L' in Irfanview, but neither way really looks like a '3' or an 'E'. Nor as an 'M' if it is turned over. 'W' is my choice also. Digikey list Wurst as a manufacturer, but there are over 800 options without refining too much. And I can't find their logo.
It's Saturday morning Down Under and my SDA wife is gone to church. We're going out this evening but she'll be 'back to work' tomorrow and I use her younger and less abused eyesight to do the chores I can no longer see well enough. With a magnifying glass I believe I can see the tabs to which you refer, so perhaps a dress pin will fit in to unlatch them. Photo attached. I have nothing to lose. Will let you know how I make out.
Thanks!
Bob M
There is nothing molded on the other side of the switch.
You can easily rotate the 'W' with 'R' or 'L' in Irfanview, but neither way really looks like a '3' or an 'E'. Nor as an 'M' if it is turned over. 'W' is my choice also. Digikey list Wurst as a manufacturer, but there are over 800 options without refining too much. And I can't find their logo.
It's Saturday morning Down Under and my SDA wife is gone to church. We're going out this evening but she'll be 'back to work' tomorrow and I use her younger and less abused eyesight to do the chores I can no longer see well enough. With a magnifying glass I believe I can see the tabs to which you refer, so perhaps a dress pin will fit in to unlatch them. Photo attached. I have nothing to lose. Will let you know how I make out.
Thanks!
Bob M
Attachments
autostaretx
Erratic Member
Actually, it was this set of tabs that really caught my eye:
... but the two holes near your red circles are a definite sign of "yeah, the whole thing is the switch"
(since sooooo many microswitches have those holes (they must be a standardized mounting system))
The industry name for that shape plastic button is "mushroom" ... and they appear on microswitches the catalog classified as "limit switches"
--dick
p.s. Wurth's logo is a"WE" as slanted block letters with some horizontal lines (circuit board traces) as a background.
The logo on the switch suggests a relay coil pulling in its armature
... but the two holes near your red circles are a definite sign of "yeah, the whole thing is the switch"
(since sooooo many microswitches have those holes (they must be a standardized mounting system))
The industry name for that shape plastic button is "mushroom" ... and they appear on microswitches the catalog classified as "limit switches"
--dick
p.s. Wurth's logo is a"WE" as slanted block letters with some horizontal lines (circuit board traces) as a background.
The logo on the switch suggests a relay coil pulling in its armature
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