Potential fuel tap? Dodge Sprinter 2006 T1N 2500

PocketDrop

Active member
Im going through the process of installing a diesel heater for my cargo area (planned to go beneath the passenger seat). I heard from one guy, that no matter what, all 2006 T1Ns have a fuel tap.

Pictured, is this little guy that I found on the passenger side of the tank, in about the middle. Is this a fuel tap? I saw another post claiming that this is just a breather nossel for the tank.

If this is not a fuel tap, can anyone describe to me the easies way to go about adding one? I do not have a heater booster.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
Yeah... no. That is indeed the breather valve.
If your can didn’t have a boost heater from the factory then chances are it didn’t come fitted with the second fuel pickup either.

The common way of installing one is to remove the Fuel Pump Module from the tank and drill through the honeycomb on the top of the module and instal a metal pickup tube. There was a thread in the last two weeks... and I’ve seen Dennis (lindenengineering) post the recommended part number a couple of times - you’ll find it if you use the search bar.

BUT: DO NOT DRILL THROUGH THE TANK TOP. Just don’t. The hole will make a weak spot that can lead to a crack and split the tank. You’ll need to drain and drop the tank to install the new pickup tube, or you may luck out and find one on the pump module.

Good hunting,

-dave
 

PocketDrop

Active member
Thanks! I saw the other threads desveibing how to add that fuel line in the honeycomb. Was just REALLY hoping I wouldnt have to lol. I appreciate the clarification! Guess I gotta come to terms with the reality of not having a stock installed fuel tap

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
He is absolutely 100% correct.





That fuel tap feeds the engine.

:tongue:
Oh for crying out loud.
There two fuel pump derivations.
One is equipped with a secondary fuel tap port & stand pipe for accessory operation , i.e a fuel fired heater .

When you buy a new fuel pump for a T1N van you have to specify which pump alternative you need. .
Either option is about $450.

Or
You can install a 3 mm stand pipe inserted into the top of the fuel pump cartridge for about $125.

Obviously its a judgement call.
If your van has done about 250,000 miles plus then it might make sense to simply buy a new pump with three ports.

If not buy a a stand pipe and convert it.
Its that simple Gunga Din.
Either way you have to drop then tank.
Dennis
 
There is another sealed off port on top of your fuel pump. I took mine out drilled it out and put a vericle shorter pipe on it. then I used a hose barb cut from a plastic fuel filter little epoxy shoved it in the hole and it looks factory!
 

Alphacarina

2006 Itasca Navion 23H
Most of those auxiliary heaters have their own fuel pump. It would be cheaper and simpler to use a little 1 or 2 gallon plastic fuel tank to run the heater. They run a long time on a couple gallons

Don
 

90d

2006 2500 158"WB SHC
I’ve seen Dennis (lindenengineering) post the recommended part number a couple of times - you’ll find it if you use the search bar.

BUT: DO NOT DRILL THROUGH THE TANK TOP.
Here is the mentioned thread for anyone looking, with product links:

The above poster's RockAuto link is also a good suggestion.

It is pretty freaking cold out here in Phoenix! My CDH was not outputting heat after two years due to carbon caking.
Now that I have it fixed I want to go the extra mile and make it the ideal system.
 

Bill B.

Active member
Here is the mentioned thread for anyone looking, with product links:

The above poster's RockAuto link is also a good suggestion.

It is pretty freaking cold out here in Phoenix! My CDH was not outputting heat after two years due to carbon caking.
Now that I have it fixed I want to go the extra mile and make it the ideal system.
I have the booster which is tapped from the main tank. When I installed a D2 under the passenger seat I also installed a dedicated 2 gallon day tank to use clear kerosene. The fuel is expensive but doesn’t coke the flame tube like diesel at the expense of $$ and lower BTUs but the latter hasn’t been an issue. A 1:1 kerosene:diesel would probably help a lot too. The booster gets the most use for quick warm ups in the winter months and it hasn’t had a hiccup from diesel only but I’m just over 50k miles. I’m it sure about the D5 booster but the D2 glow pin is easy to service/clean. Servicing the glow pin regularly should reduce coking significantly.
 

Top Bottom