Safety of higher power systems in a van

Airtime

Well-known member
I'd like to ask for comments on the topic of safety of higher power systems in a van.
- Use case: Occasional simultaneous use of an induction cooktop with brief microwave use, always within all manufacturer specs including the inverter.
- System: 400Ah LiFePO4 and a 3000W inverter in a Sprinter van, plus moderate solar & alternator charging (charging is not the topic here, focus is on inverter loads and safety)

I don't want to debate the need for higher power in this thread, everyone's needs are different. I've already been told that I may just want to stay home where there is lots of AC power. But hey, to each their own. The topic here is safety. I was also told by one of several experienced installers I have spoken with that it would be a big mistake to do this, it is outside of safe limits for a van, and that I have no idea what I am getting into.

OK fair enough, I'm always ready to learn, and safety is critical. That's why I talk to experts, including those on this forum. So following is my understanding so far on doing such a system. I'll work up a schematic, but I think these are general questions applicable to any such system. I welcome any constructive feedback on safety, and references are always helpful. And yes, I am also consulting with experienced installers, industry specifications, and directly with the vendors. The Sprinter forum is a valuable additional resource I am using.

1) 200A in 4/0 cable
I was told that running DC loads of 200A continuous is quite risky and likely requires cables larger than 4/0 to be safe. I don't understand that. 4/0 wire has an ampacity rating of 448A for single dry wire, 270A even if wet and in a 122F engine room.

The cables in question would connect from battery bank through Class T fuse and battery switch to inverter, all inside a 3 foot long non-conducting box. Voltage drop not an issue with these short cables, ampacity is the limiting factor. I would think 200A is safely achievable in this application using 4/0 cable. Are there other factors I should be considering?

2) Lithium batteries inside the van
I've also been told that lithium batteries inside the van are inherently unsafe. That was a surprise for me. I'm aware that other lithium chemistries are fire hazards, but no LiFePO4. If you have comments on the safety risks of batteries inside, please educate me. Again, references are helpful.

3) Inverter peak loads:
Use case as I mentioned is ~5 minute use of microwave while an induction cooktop is already in use.

Specs for a Victron 3000VA Inverter/Charger:
- 3000VA continuous at 25C (77F)
- 2400W continuous output power at 25C (77F)
- 2200W continuous output power at 40C (104F)
- 1700W continous output power at 65C (150F)
- 30% overload ok up to 30 minutes
- 6000W peak power up to 2 minutes
- 93% max efficiency

Inverter AC load at 104F
Victron specs allow running at 30% above continuous rating, for durations less than 30 minutes. And an amazing 6000W for 2 minutes. My use case is 5 minutes, maybe a couple times a day. So the 30 minute spec applies here, and limiting further to a 5 minute peak load just adds margin due to lower heating in the inverter FETs than with 30 minutes.

This means 2860W available for 30 minutes if the inverter is sitting at 104F ambient inside the electrical cabinet. More if cooler, less if warmer. As with all inverters, user needs to manage what's plugged in. And actual devices to be selected after measurements of devices and of actual ambient temperature rise for the inverter in its cabinet.

DC load at 104F Ambient
- Inverter: 2860W @ 120VAC, 40C, and 93% efficiency = 256A DC for <30 minutes
- DC loads: Worst case, assume also maxed out at 100A
- 4/0 wire is rated at 378A ampacity continuous at 50C/122F, so 356A is in spec
- This is a worst worst case sum of several peaks: max AC load for 30 minutes, max DC load, 104F ambient, still meets all specs.

A detailed ABYC type load analysis accounting for actual intermittent and continuous loads would come in with more margin, and I do plan to do that. But I believe this provides a useful frame for discussion.

Conclusion
An induction cooktop plus microwave seems feasible to implement safely using this 3000W inverter. A detailed load analysis would be needed before finalizing appliance selection, if needed for safety margin. But selecting from induction cooktops in the 1200-1800W range plus a microwave in the 600-1000W range, there should be a viable and safe solution.

OK, comments invited.
 

john61ct

Active member
So long as everything's done properly* no worries.

The high voltage stuff is most critical.

LFP is NOT a concern*, nor would LTO be. EVERY other LI chemistry would it's true be way too risk inside any dwelling space, but only a tiny % of even electricians or engineers know the distinction.

Use Blue Sea Circuit Wizard for sizing wiring.

Do not buy supplies / devices based on price, avoid Chinese unless through trusted brands and sources.

Find a good sparkie, ideally experienced with marine rather than RV specs.

Marine standards like ABYC are useful, get wire terminations right.

Sounds like you're on the right track.

* "a big if" there of course
 

Shawn182

Well-known member
2) Lithium batteries inside the van
I've also been told that lithium batteries inside the van are inherently unsafe. That was a surprise for me. I'm aware that other lithium chemistries are fire hazards, but no LiFePO4.
LiFePO4 batteries CAN be unsafe if you do not know what you are doing and fail to implement an over/under charge current protection system, solid BMS, and proper charging system(s)..

Throw a DIY Lithium pack and charge it wrong without above as noted...and yeah, they can easily go poof inside your van.
 

Airtime

Well-known member
LiFePO4 batteries CAN be unsafe if you do not know what you are doing and fail to implement an over/under charge current protection system, solid BMS, and proper charging system(s)..

Throw a DIY Lithium pack and charge it wrong without above as noted...and yeah, they can easily go poof inside your van.

Thanks. Not planning DIY lithium pack. I will use Battle Born (internal BMS and protections) or the newer 200Ah Victron (external BMS).
 

Airtime

Well-known member
So long as everything's done properly* no worries.

The high voltage stuff is most critical.

LFP is NOT a concern*, nor would LTO be. EVERY other LI chemistry would it's true be way too risk inside any dwelling space, but only a tiny % of even electricians or engineers know the distinction.

Use Blue Sea Circuit Wizard for sizing wiring.

Do not buy supplies / devices based on price, avoid Chinese unless through trusted brands and sources.

Find a good sparkie, ideally experienced with marine rather than RV specs.

Marine standards like ABYC are useful, get wire terminations right.

Sounds like you're on the right track.

* "a big if" there of course

Thanks. That’s what I thought on LFP.

Yes, I’m using Blue Sea circuit wizard and also the Ampacity table they provide. Also following ABYC specs as my guide.
 

john61ct

Active member
LiFePO4 batteries CAN be unsafe if you do not know what you are doing and fail to implement an over/under charge current protection system, solid BMS, and proper charging system(s)..

Throw a DIY Lithium pack and charge it wrong without above as noted...and yeah, they can easily go poof inside your van.
Same with lead, seen plenty of million-dollar fires caused by improper care.

Personally IMO easier to put in preventative systems against LFP's failure modes than with lead.

But yes, a knowledgeable and diligent operator is what makes for safety in both cases.
 
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markxengineering

Active member
I remember reading about someone whose van got smoked out by a failed solar controller. He had left the van for storage with the solar panel covered up, but somehow the cover came off, and the solar controller failed leading to overcharging. I can't remember the battery type and all details are hazy, but I think one lesson learned was that enclosing the batteries in a metal box would have helped for safety. This is what I have done and I don't think there's much downside.
 

john61ct

Active member
Yes I personally do not like to leave any devices active for long unattended.

Best for all expensive banks to be 100% isolated.

Especially from the BMS!

For long term storage with lead needing 100% SoC, start checking topping up every 3 weeks, then a bit longer until I see about 0.05% going in per session.

Leaving a constant "trickle charge" going is asking for trouble.

ECU and radio settings can be maintained with a cheap sacrificial batt if Starter is pricey.

Quality LFP can sit at 30% SoC for over a decade.
 

marklg

Well-known member
Battleborn may not be the best choice any longer. I am not suggesting going as far as a DIY pack, but the Battleborns lack any monitoring or heating element for cold charging. There are several others that have these features. You won't have to spend more money and effort to add them. You can only monitor individual cell voltages if the monitoring is built into the batteries and they report that info.

I can't really recommend any specific ones to others. I bought Lifeblues, but I have not seen a teardown to know if the battery itself is as well built as the Battleborns are. They did have the monitoring features I wanted and were quickly installed. I had a time crunch. They have performed well for the last year.

If I were to get something today, and lived in a cold place, I would want batteries that include some sort of internal monitoring / reporting, including individual cell voltages and a heating system to allow cold charging. You certainly can obtain that with a DIY pack. I have several for less safety critical uses, but I am not confident I would not make a mistake on a 400Ah system that might have bad consequences. Relying on the internal protection of a drop in battery does have it's risks, if they did not do it right. My thinking is if they built hundreds or thousands, if they were bad that knowledge would get out.

I have 1/0 cables on each battery with a correctly sized MRBF fuse on each. The drop in batteries will shut off under certain circumstances, leaving the load to the others. Then, a Class T sized for the inverter and 4/0 wire for the combined current to the inverter. I can run the inverter at full output. Lug crimping is critical. A bad crimp can have high resistance and get hot. Search the forums for many stories.

Regards,

Mark
 
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JUSTAGUY

St Cloud, WI
Airtime
I see you are in Idaho. Reach out to the folks at AM Solar in Springfield OR. They installed my system in an RV. All Victron system. LiFePo is definitely safe inside a van, and that inverter (I have the same) should handle what you are describing. I personally try not to run 2 high draw items at the same time
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Failures of gear can happen, and there is no way to protect against every possible internal failure. Batteries, inverters, microwaves, etc.

Your task as the designer is to reduce the risk to an acceptable level. This means preventing catastrophic failures. Fuse as needed to stop dead shorts from vaporizing wires. Protect wires from chafing or moisture which could cause ignition temperatures without blowing fuses.

It depends on your risk tolerance, but you can place high power components such that a failure can't easily ignite flammable materials nearby. Have a good fire extinguisher readily available (ABC suggested).

For lithium batteries, make sure the enclosure has a small vent somewhere. A nearly sealed box could be an issue if the pack starts venting electrolyte. Electrolyte is flammable. LFP does not typically get hot enough to ignite the electrolyte, so a venting condition is not going to ignite on its own.

By far the most common source of fire is poorly terminated wires/cables/connections/splices. Combined with high power, you can generate ignition temperatures without blowing fuses. Even nuts on studs can loosen if cables aren't supported properly. There are torque specs for many of them, use a torque wrench if possible.

Use components with good track records. Reputable companies have a vested interest in designing/making reliable/safe components.
 
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john61ct

Active member
Initial installation may be perfect, but the forces of entropy never sleep.

Regular inspection and testing is required, design with that in mind.

Resistance increasing, temperatures rising, bank capacity decreasing, not hard to detect, but 99.99% never even learn how.
 

Airtime

Well-known member
Airtime
I see you are in Idaho. Reach out to the folks at AM Solar in Springfield OR. They installed my system in an RV. All Victron system. LiFePo is definitely safe inside a van, and that inverter (I have the same) should handle what you are describing. I personally try not to run 2 high draw items at the same time
Thanks for the tip. I have been talking with them and with others, they seem like a great outfit.
 

Airtime

Well-known member
Thanks everyone for the comments, I'll summaries my replies in one post.

Metal box enclosure with ventilation sounds like a good idea.

BMS will control disconnects for both loads and charge sources. In addition, I will put manual switches in each path to enable 100% confidence full disconnect for storage or for isolation of problems.

I plan to buy custom cables for the large stuff. I like to buy tools and all, but I want those crimps to be solid. The cost is not that much more overall.

The cold charging is less of a concern if inside the heated van. My storage location is inside and heated. When traveling, the van will be heated. For the corner case where I end up outside in the winter and the van has cooled to below freezing, I can use discharge only to fire up the Espar heater, then enable charging once the batteries are warm enough.
 

seekingexp

Active member
Thanks everyone for the comments, I'll summaries my replies in one post.

Metal box enclosure with ventilation sounds like a good idea.

BMS will control disconnects for both loads and charge sources. In addition, I will put manual switches in each path to enable 100% confidence full disconnect for storage or for isolation of problems.

I plan to buy custom cables for the large stuff. I like to buy tools and all, but I want those crimps to be solid. The cost is not that much more overall.

The cold charging is less of a concern if inside the heated van. My storage location is inside and heated. When traveling, the van will be heated. For the corner case where I end up outside in the winter and the van has cooled to below freezing, I can use discharge only to fire up the Espar heater, then enable charging once the batteries are warm enough.
Do you happen to have a source for the Espar furnace enclosures?
 

220629

Well-known member
I guess it is picky to think that the title would have better named "High Load".

Be that as it may. I agree that if high electrical loads are anticipated it is best to design to more than minimum standards.

Metal enclosures are used to contain burning components in both residential and commercial electrical systems. Metal enclosures can help, but aren't necessarily required. Times and products have changed.

Then the discussion branched to fuel fired stand alone heaters. Many diesel and petrol fired heaters are installed in RV's without any full metal enclosure. That is also true on boats/marine installations. Risk vs reward.

Some of these things can be overthunk.

:2cents: vic
 

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