Properly Seat Your Oil Filter

altide8

Active member
Are you absolutely 100% certain you got the top 'O' ring back in the correct groove?

It goes one groove down and not in the obvious top groove!

Keith.
Yeah it’s in the correct groove. It’s also a Mobil 1 ring. I might order a new filter all together. Wouldn’t the leak be fairly easy to see if this were the case?
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Yeah it’s in the correct groove. It’s also a Mobil 1 ring. I might order a new filter all together. Wouldn’t the leak be fairly easy to see if this were the case?
Yes, so can you see where the leak is coming from?
Did you disturb anything else?

Keith.
 

ratfairy

New member
I noted that earlier in this thread, some people have acknowledged that the Mobil 1 filter comes with extra o-rings (5 in total). It's clear that the smallest O-ring goes on the tip of the Drain Sealing Stem and the largest goes above the threads on the cap....... but there are two sizes of o-rings that look like they could fit in the middle o-ring position. One is slightly smaller than the o-ring I pulled off during filter change, and has a really tight fit if you squeeze it on. The other mobil 1 o-ring is slightly larger than the o-ring pulled off during the filter change and it slips into the grove but has more play than what was on there before.

Looks like the slightly larger mobil-1 o-ring is the closer fit, although it is looser in the groove than the original, but I'm hoping won't jump its track and will make a proper seal when the filter body is reinserted.

Anybody have thoughts about choosing amongst the middle sized extra o-rings in the mobil 1 filter package?
 

220629

Well-known member
....

Anybody have thoughts about choosing amongst the middle sized extra o-rings in the mobil 1 filter package?
If the O-ring wasn't damaged during removal, reuse the removed O-ring. Next filter change get dealership parts, Hengst, or Mann. Just a suggestion.

vic
 

rodrob

Member
It was reported that my 220,000 mile, perfectly running 2004, long, tall, engine failure was due to the 5c O ring at the bottom or the oil filter stem.:poop: :bash:
Take heed ?
 

220629

Well-known member
It was reported that my 220,000 mile, perfectly running 2004, long, tall, engine failure was due to the 5c O ring at the bottom or the oil filter stem.:poop: :bash:
Take heed ?
Bummer. The oil drain not being properly sealed during operation would reduce the overall oil pressure with some of the oil pressure dumping off into the sump.

Do you know the actual failure?

During the last oil change was a proper O-ring installed on the bottom of the filter spike?

During the inspection tear down was an O-ring found on the end of the spike? If yes, was it intact? Was it determined to be undersized?

Was the filter spike damaged somehow? That could affect the position of the O-ring in the seal bore.

vic
 

rodrob

Member
Theortical failure was cracked piston based on the nature and source of the knocking sound. I did not pay for a teardown as the engine was obviously toast.
I did the last change, which I have done many times, and cant imagine that I left the O ring off, but when the tech showed the spike to me, it was gone. I did not see it him remove the filter, so I know for sure when it or if disappeared.
The filter, from Amsoil, has a choice of mid O rings but only one small ring. No Damage to the spike.
 

Toronto_Barbers

New member
Changing the oil and filter on a T1N 2.7L 5 cylinder diesel engine is relatively straight-forward, but proper oil filter seating on the drain sealing stem is critical. It has been reported that an improperly seated oil filter element can lead to a lack of oil supply to the engine. I am reminded of proper filter element seating every time I change my oil. I think that I have set the filter on all the way, then I push a bit more and sure enough there is a snap as it seats further down. On my filters it takes a bit of pressure to properly seat.

Changing the oil is fairly simple. You need a 13mm hex socket or hex wrench for the pan plug. An oil filter cap wrench (74.5 mm size). A large oil catch container (at least 12 quart... even bigger for NCV3, but this is the T1N section). Some cardboard if you're sloppy like I can be. An oil filter and 9 quarts of MB approved engine oil (it calls for 9.5, but don't overfill it because there is a high oil level warning which will trigger if you put too much in). I start the oil draining underneath and then immediately go up and remove the oil filter cap assembly until it sits loosely on the housing. I'm told that helps to drain more oil out. One gotcha is that the oil really shoots out of the drain plug so have the catch container wall positioned so it is far enough away that it doesn't overshoot. (The catch pan should probably not be centered to the drain.)

Righty tighty, lefty loosey works to remove and re-install the black plastic oil filter cap. For those who need a torque value "The closing torque of 25 n-m is in raised lettering on the cap." per TH43. (19 foot pounds = 25.8 N-m)

A more formal description without the colloquialism.



Here's some pictures of what I find works to assure the filter is pressed all the way onto the drain sealing stem. Sorry for the poor picture quality. I didn't look at the pictures until the oil change was complete. I wasn't going to change my filter again to get better pictures. :rolleyes:

I use two hands to squeeze the filter down into position. I needed one for the camera, so you need to use your imagination.

View attachment 44904


Look for the ridge to be in this position.

View attachment 44903


The large O-ring goes in the top groove. (At least that's where mine has always been.) Verify that the O-ring is uniformly seated in the groove. Always lube the O-ring with a bit of engine oil or Vaseline before installation.

View attachment 44906

Edit:

My 2006 oil filter cap has only one groove which the O-ring fits. It appears the design is changed since 2004.

View attachment 77215


Another thing to double check is that the cap is fully seated. Even if you use a torque wrench visually verify that it is seated. There should be no gap between the aluminum housing and the filter cap.

View attachment 44905

It seems like basic stuff, but there have been comments that if the oil filter is not properly seated it can reduce oil flow and have serious consequences with the engine not getting enough oil pressure. FWIW. vic

Some oil filter brands discussion is here.

Oil Filter Comparison Hengst (german), STP & Mobile 1 brands
Info Thread :thumbup:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22896


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The Hengst E11H D57 oil filters don't "snap".



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CAUTION

If the filter drain sealing stem breaks off do not install the filter without addressing the problem. Having no drain sealing stem may lead to low oil pressure and engine damage.
I see 74 and 74.5 mm 14 flute oil cap wrenches being sold. The 74.5 mm wrench appears to be for the newer Sprinters. Shouldn't the old ones like my 2002 use the 74 mm size?
TIA
 

220629

Well-known member
I see 74 and 74.5 mm 14 flute oil cap wrenches being sold. The 74.5 mm wrench appears to be for the newer Sprinters. Shouldn't the old ones like my 2002 use the 74 mm size?
TIA
:idunno:

I have a cheapy aluminum oil filter cap set from HF. What I believe is the 74 mm size kinda fits, but doesn't really seat down on the cap. It does work for me, but I'm careful.

The fit problem for me could be 74 mm size or possibly the number of flutes. I haven't double checked. If I were going to buy a cap wrench, I'm not... the cheap set works, it would be the 74.5 mm size.

vic
 

220629

Well-known member
This comment is related to other engines, NOT SPRINTERS.

I noticed that the VW, Audi, and maybe other brand engines Mann oil filters come with the filter spike included.

1637866648502.png

There have been a few reports on Sprinter-source regarding the spikes breaking or otherwise giving problems. I'm sure that including the spike frames with each filter adds to the cost. As a vehicle ages maybe over the long term it is worthwhile. :hmmm:


Back to Sprinter information.

In no particular order these are the proper filters for the T1N 5 cylinder engine. They do not include a spike frame as shown above.

Mann HU718/1K
Hengst E11H D57
Bosch 72261WS / F00E369879 Workshop Engine Oil Filter
Purolator L25536 (Same as OEM and Mann when I purchased, but could change? Not common on shelves anyway.)


vic
 
Last edited:

marklg

Well-known member
This comment is related to other engines, NOT SPRINTERS.

I noticed that the VW, Audi, and maybe other brand engines Mann oil filters come with the filter spike included.

View attachment 201331

There have been a few reports on Sprinter-source regarding the spikes breaking or otherwise giving problems. I'm sure that including the spike frames with each filter adds to the cost. Maybe over the long term it is worthwhile. :hmmm:


Back to Sprinter information.

In no particular order these are the proper filters for the T1N 5 cylinder engine. They do not include a spike frame as shown above.

Mann HU718/1K
Hengst E11H D57
Bosch 72261WS / F00E369879 Workshop Engine Oil Filter
Purolator L25536 (Same as OEM and Mann when I purchased, but could change?)


vic
It seem that Dodge is depleting stocks of the Cap and spike. They provided 5117596AB instead of 5080029AA for $30 instead of $52. I haven't picked it up yet to confirm its the right one.

Regards,

Mark
 

marklg

Well-known member
It seem that Dodge is depleting stocks of the Cap and spike. They provided 5117596AB instead of 5080029AA for $30 instead of $52. I haven't picked it up yet to confirm its the right one.

Regards,

Mark
I picked up the part and it looks right. You get the cap and spike, a new oil filter and all new O rings installed. It also says the Mercedes Benz number A 611 180 02 10 on the package. Made in Austria.

Regards,

Mark
 

220629

Well-known member
I picked up the part and it looks right. You get the cap and spike, a new oil filter and all new O rings installed. It also says the Mercedes Benz number A 611 180 02 10 on the package. Made in Austria.

Regards,

Mark
With the oil filter included it is a better price than the aftermarket parts I've seen recently.

Thanks for the update. :thumbup:

As an aside.

I compared a Bosch 72261WS / F00E369879 Workshop Engine Oil Filter to an on hand Hengst E11H D57 filter. The Bosch filter has the same no felt ends/same color all over style as the OEM Dodge oil filters and Mann brand. The Bosch filter body is just a bit longer compared to the felt end Hengst.

The Hengst filters have white colored large O-rings vs the black O-rings with the Bosch and Mann filters. All of the smaller O-rings are black color. Not that it matters.

vic
 

GypySun

Member
Clean hands for just changing the oil. Any tips on that. I use disposable gloves but still manage to get the hands, arms and cloths dirty.
Use the oil that comes out of the engine to clean your hands. Try it you will see how clean your hands and mail come out.
 

marklg

Well-known member
Use the oil that comes out of the engine to clean your hands. Try it you will see how clean your hands and mail come out.
You are responding to a 10 year old posting, although the user is luckily still on the forum these days.

My answer for my hands is Fast Orange. I've gotten better at it and usually don't spill any more as I know how far the oil stream will go when I remove the drain bolt.

Regards,

Mark
 

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