Cheyenne
UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Are you absolutely 100% certain you got the top 'O' ring back in the correct groove?...As well as the top ring.
It goes one groove down and not in the obvious top groove!
Keith.
Are you absolutely 100% certain you got the top 'O' ring back in the correct groove?...As well as the top ring.
Yeah it’s in the correct groove. It’s also a Mobil 1 ring. I might order a new filter all together. Wouldn’t the leak be fairly easy to see if this were the case?Are you absolutely 100% certain you got the top 'O' ring back in the correct groove?
It goes one groove down and not in the obvious top groove!
Keith.
Yes, so can you see where the leak is coming from?Yeah it’s in the correct groove. It’s also a Mobil 1 ring. I might order a new filter all together. Wouldn’t the leak be fairly easy to see if this were the case?
If the O-ring wasn't damaged during removal, reuse the removed O-ring. Next filter change get dealership parts, Hengst, or Mann. Just a suggestion.....
Anybody have thoughts about choosing amongst the middle sized extra o-rings in the mobil 1 filter package?
Bummer. The oil drain not being properly sealed during operation would reduce the overall oil pressure with some of the oil pressure dumping off into the sump.It was reported that my 220,000 mile, perfectly running 2004, long, tall, engine failure was due to the 5c O ring at the bottom or the oil filter stem.
Take heed ?
I see 74 and 74.5 mm 14 flute oil cap wrenches being sold. The 74.5 mm wrench appears to be for the newer Sprinters. Shouldn't the old ones like my 2002 use the 74 mm size?Changing the oil and filter on a T1N 2.7L 5 cylinder diesel engine is relatively straight-forward, but proper oil filter seating on the drain sealing stem is critical. It has been reported that an improperly seated oil filter element can lead to a lack of oil supply to the engine. I am reminded of proper filter element seating every time I change my oil. I think that I have set the filter on all the way, then I push a bit more and sure enough there is a snap as it seats further down. On my filters it takes a bit of pressure to properly seat.
Changing the oil is fairly simple. You need a 13mm hex socket or hex wrench for the pan plug. An oil filter cap wrench (74.5 mm size). A large oil catch container (at least 12 quart... even bigger for NCV3, but this is the T1N section). Some cardboard if you're sloppy like I can be. An oil filter and 9 quarts of MB approved engine oil (it calls for 9.5, but don't overfill it because there is a high oil level warning which will trigger if you put too much in). I start the oil draining underneath and then immediately go up and remove the oil filter cap assembly until it sits loosely on the housing. I'm told that helps to drain more oil out. One gotcha is that the oil really shoots out of the drain plug so have the catch container wall positioned so it is far enough away that it doesn't overshoot. (The catch pan should probably not be centered to the drain.)
Righty tighty, lefty loosey works to remove and re-install the black plastic oil filter cap. For those who need a torque value "The closing torque of 25 n-m is in raised lettering on the cap." per TH43. (19 foot pounds = 25.8 N-m)
A more formal description without the colloquialism.
Here's some pictures of what I find works to assure the filter is pressed all the way onto the drain sealing stem. Sorry for the poor picture quality. I didn't look at the pictures until the oil change was complete. I wasn't going to change my filter again to get better pictures.
I use two hands to squeeze the filter down into position. I needed one for the camera, so you need to use your imagination.
View attachment 44904
Look for the ridge to be in this position.
View attachment 44903
The large O-ring goes in the top groove. (At least that's where mine has always been.) Verify that the O-ring is uniformly seated in the groove. Always lube the O-ring with a bit of engine oil or Vaseline before installation.
View attachment 44906
Edit:
My 2006 oil filter cap has only one groove which the O-ring fits. It appears the design is changed since 2004.
View attachment 77215
Another thing to double check is that the cap is fully seated. Even if you use a torque wrench visually verify that it is seated. There should be no gap between the aluminum housing and the filter cap.
View attachment 44905
It seems like basic stuff, but there have been comments that if the oil filter is not properly seated it can reduce oil flow and have serious consequences with the engine not getting enough oil pressure. FWIW. vic
Some oil filter brands discussion is here.
Oil Filter Comparison Hengst (german), STP & Mobile 1 brands
Info Thread
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22896
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The Hengst E11H D57 oil filters don't "snap".
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CAUTION
If the filter drain sealing stem breaks off do not install the filter without addressing the problem. Having no drain sealing stem may lead to low oil pressure and engine damage.
I see 74 and 74.5 mm 14 flute oil cap wrenches being sold. The 74.5 mm wrench appears to be for the newer Sprinters. Shouldn't the old ones like my 2002 use the 74 mm size?
TIA
It seem that Dodge is depleting stocks of the Cap and spike. They provided 5117596AB instead of 5080029AA for $30 instead of $52. I haven't picked it up yet to confirm its the right one.This comment is related to other engines, NOT SPRINTERS.
I noticed that the VW, Audi, and maybe other brand engines Mann oil filters come with the filter spike included.
View attachment 201331
There have been a few reports on Sprinter-source regarding the spikes breaking or otherwise giving problems. I'm sure that including the spike frames with each filter adds to the cost. Maybe over the long term it is worthwhile.
Back to Sprinter information.
In no particular order these are the proper filters for the T1N 5 cylinder engine. They do not include a spike frame as shown above.
Mann HU718/1K
Hengst E11H D57
Bosch 72261WS / F00E369879 Workshop Engine Oil Filter
Purolator L25536 (Same as OEM and Mann when I purchased, but could change?)
vic
I picked up the part and it looks right. You get the cap and spike, a new oil filter and all new O rings installed. It also says the Mercedes Benz number A 611 180 02 10 on the package. Made in Austria.It seem that Dodge is depleting stocks of the Cap and spike. They provided 5117596AB instead of 5080029AA for $30 instead of $52. I haven't picked it up yet to confirm its the right one.
Regards,
Mark
With the oil filter included it is a better price than the aftermarket parts I've seen recently.I picked up the part and it looks right. You get the cap and spike, a new oil filter and all new O rings installed. It also says the Mercedes Benz number A 611 180 02 10 on the package. Made in Austria.
Regards,
Mark
Use the oil that comes out of the engine to clean your hands. Try it you will see how clean your hands and mail come out.Clean hands for just changing the oil. Any tips on that. I use disposable gloves but still manage to get the hands, arms and cloths dirty.
You are responding to a 10 year old posting, although the user is luckily still on the forum these days.Use the oil that comes out of the engine to clean your hands. Try it you will see how clean your hands and mail come out.