Espar Underseat Installation

THE

2018, 144, HR, 4x4
New question, is anybody using or consider an ON/OFF switch for the D2 system? I know for a fact that there will be some long periods where I don't need it at all, so why have it fired up? Well, other than use as a fan, which is cool.

I figure so long as I've allowed the unit to shutdown according to its own design, I should be able to just switch it all off.

Yes/No ??
 

sprint2freedom

2008 NCV3 170ext
New question, is anybody using or consider an ON/OFF switch for the D2 system? I know for a fact that there will be some long periods where I don't need it at all, so why have it fired up? Well, other than use as a fan, which is cool.

I figure so long as I've allowed the unit to shutdown according to its own design, I should be able to just switch it all off.

Yes/No ??
I have mine on a breaker which also functions as a switch. I leave it on all the time; it's mainly useful to quickly cycle power if the heater refuses to start twice and goes into lock-out. Flipping the switch is slightly easier than pulling a fuse but I wouldn't let that drive your design vs. other factors.

I haven't found the D2 fan mode to be particularly useful..
 

DirtDogg

Member
I finally finished my install last week. It took about 1.5 days to do the physical install of the heater, fuel line, exhaust and about 1.5 days for wiring and reassembly. I took my time with breaks due to fatigue, stress or kids (I have a 1.5 yr old and 5 yr old)

I have EasyStart Select Controller, HAK, and external temp sensor. Here are some of my lessons learned and resources:

-The wiring is intimidating at first but its actually not that bad. Its basically power, ground, 2 external temp sensor wires and 4 control wires (yellow, blue white, brown and red)
-I was pretty nervous and making the weatherpack connections especially on the fuel pump since it didn't come with spares and I doubt my local hardware store carried parts needed
-I did get a weatherpack/double crimp tool but it didn't work really well. It takes a little practice but I used a combination of regular crimpers and the double crimp tool for my connection
-I could've used regular crimps for but I decided to use the terminals and connectors provided by the kit. It probably took me 3 extra hrs. On one my last connections, I insert the pin in the wrong position on the harness. I was able to push out the pin using a couple of needles.
-Definitely read the instructions. Its actually not that bad
-I ended up connecting the yellow wire since it was already connected on the HAK harness.



Videos

This one was very detailed on the wire termination and route:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BXF7xQ8Hpo

This video was a great overall with details on wiring:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbAbaDzmp64

Thanks to all those that contributed to this thread.
 

mtncrawler

Active member
Getting ready to install in the passenger seat base - and have a few obstacles that I want to see if anyone has installed around. I have the seat bases that have the angled back step (reducing interior space) - ala GeorgeRA - and I also have the DEF tank (lines) underneath, and the tire compressor/repair kit in the front sidestep well. I wanted to mount mine on an angle like so many others, but I have a pretty small window to route the intake and exhaust hoses. I'm sure it's been done with this combo of options, but wondering if someone can point me to an install/build thread that has this combo of van build. I see some posted with the DEF tank location - but not the tire accessory box. (I've searched and reviewed several threads/videos.)

I attached a shot of my seat base with some markings that show approximate "areas to avoid". Also a shot underneath. It looks like I'd be unable to locate the base across a flat surface - given the half-moon shaped floor indent - and I'd be worried about routing the intake and exhaust in this location as it seems I'd have to run the exhaust around the DEF tank (don't want to have things running lower than that (to maintain ground clearance). Part of me just wants to remove the tire service box to give more room - but I made be able to route the intake between the top of that box and bottom of van floor.

Just looking for more information from someone familiar with this flavor of install - and maybe some pics showing routing of the intake/exhaust tubes with this DEF tank location/tire repair/service box.
 

Attachments

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GSWatson

2013 144
I have the same low bases, and the same DEF lines under. I thought about building a box under the heater to be able to have some space to bend the lines and have them go out where I wanted. I have a Chinese D4 copy, so it’s a little bigger, and it was just going to be too tight. I ended mounting on a box right behind the driver’s seat pedestal. Easier connection to my battery, the fuel tank pickup, and the exhaust is away from the sliding door.

The inside is still in prototype stage, so please forgive the mess... [emoji16]




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mtncrawler

Active member
I have the same low bases, and the same DEF lines under. I thought about building a box under the heater to be able to have some space to bend the lines and have them go out where I wanted. I have a Chinese D4 copy, so it’s a little bigger, and it was just going to be too tight. I ended mounting on a box right behind the driver’s seat pedestal. Easier connection to my battery, the fuel tank pickup, and the exhaust is away from the sliding door.



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I had the same thought about the riser box underneath. I saw another thread wear someone side mounted it to the pedestal (on the inside cover) and ran their lines pretty much through the "Open" space I had marked in my pic. I just have a concern that those tube connections are inside the van - vs below the floor. (I could most likely seal a riser box though on the inside of the floor.)

I also thought about a drivers side location like yours (or further back) but I don't have my full layout done yet - still playing with cabinet/bench locations. So I figured putting it in the seat base made the most sense. (And I want it installed sooner rather than later - as the full build out may take more time)
 

Sdavis

2014 144 HT
I also have a 2014 with the DEF lines. Not able to get under there to take a photo that would be helpful, but it really wasn't that big of a deal. When drilling the holes for the intake and exhaust, I wedged a piece of wood between the exterior floor and the DEF lines to ensure that my drill bit did not contact them. More challenging is getting your wrench on the nuts from underneath with those lines in the way. They can be slightly displaced to the left or right to give a bit more clearance for your wrench.

Just looking for more information from someone familiar with this flavor of install - and maybe some pics showing routing of the intake/exhaust tubes with this DEF tank location/tire repair/service box.[/QUOTE]
 

GSWatson

2013 144
I had a similar concern about the connections being inside the van; the cedar box was a temporary try with material I had on hand. In the beginning I had a bit of that ‘new heater smell. The muffler was a semi-loose fit on the exhaust pipe, and I couldn’t drill into the stainless of the muffler, so I used some JB weld that I had on hand (I did the install on the road due to time constraints).

The JB still smokes a bit when I run the heater on high, but the new heater smell has gone away.

I’d like to line the hole with a stainless anchor chain deck pipe (http://www.go2marine.com/product/209711F/sea-dog-chain-deck-pipe-stainless-steel.html ), but for the road I wrapped the exhaust in plumber’s soldering guard and some metallic tape. Again, materials on hand...


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hambleton

Member
You'll be fine. The ambient heat from that outlet hose and the heater itself isn't enough to melt wires. If you're super worried about it, you can always put a strip of aluminum foil tape over the wires to protect them. Definitely test it out to make sure it runs before putting the seat back on. You'll be able to get a sense for the minimal heat produced at that point.
 

mtncrawler

Active member
I just finished my install - ended up installing the heater just forward of the drivers rear wheel well, which will be eventually be "inside" my kitchen galley underneath the window. I used the Espar floor mounting plate which has a 5" round flange (1.5" long) that sits below the floor. The 5" flange actually creates the envelope that protrudes below/outside of the steel floor which is where you access all the heater connections (exhaust, intake, fuel). My floor layer system consists of the small "coin" flooring top, 3/4" T&G wood floor underlayment, then Luxury Liner Pro insulation, then the steel van floor. So I basically put a 5" hole through the entire floor. The Espar flanged hunting plate sit's perfect inside the hole - and I secured the top plate to the wood floor with screws.

Things started up fine - after a few false starts - it's been running for a few hours now.

So now onto my question; the base of the heater that is bolted directly mounting plate (with their std gasket) get quite warm. If I put my finger on the mounting plate - I can hold it for a few seconds - but its hot. My concern is this - the flanged plate is sitting directly on the coin flooring - and the 5" diameter flange that extends through the floor is real close to the wood flooring, and underlying insulation. I think the coin flooring is PVC.

I assume this is what that mounting plate was designed to do - but wondering whether I'll be melting the PVC coin flooring or causing problems with the insulation/wood flooring that's directly adjacent to the flange.

I know most install theirs through the van floor underneath the seat - so it's all metal to metal contact.

Thoughts? Anyone even measure the temp at the base of the heater?

EDIT: just read through a couple threads directly above re wires near the heater, I see tht probably isn’t an issue, but my mounting plate is directly sitting on PVC so it remains a question for me I guess. Wire insulation I think has a higher ‘softening’ temperature than PVC
 
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Dan Ripper

New member
I've got a 2019 Sprinter. I've got it all hooked up correctly, as far as I know. I've got it hooked under the driver seat to the alternator hookup. My problem is that the Easy Start Pro doesn't turn on unless the power of the van is on. Any ideas?
 

sprinterPaul

Well-known member
I've got a 2019 Sprinter. I've got it all hooked up correctly, as far as I know. I've got it hooked under the driver seat to the alternator hookup. My problem is that the Easy Start Pro doesn't turn on unless the power of the van is on. Any ideas?


Well the alternator is only on when the van is on right?

Got a pic of your connection?


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