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Old 07-09-2018, 07:31 AM   #1
billintomahawk
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Default Pivoting the radiator for engine inspection

Thanks everyone for the encouragement.
I ran the van for several days and amazingly it now starts hot and the glow plug light has been staying unlighted.

Unfortunately I now have a howl(worse with electrical or AC loads applied) emanating from the front right serpentine belt area. I also have corroded transmission cooler lines and who knows what else?
Before I go further I want a good look at the front of the engine so I'm going to this thread and try to discover my problems there.

After that glow plug and injector testing. Judging by the howling sound something is getting ready to break.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...t=18310&page=5

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...t=18310&page=6

bill in tomahawk

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Old 07-10-2018, 05:09 AM   #2
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Default Re: Howl in the front '02-03 T1N, pivoting the radiator for engine inspection

Being in no hurry I got this far...
Start by removing the turbo heat shield









[IMG][/IMG]



https://photos.smugmug.com/SSprinter...MG_4233-XL.jpg







Everything went smoothly this far but at the beginning I had a problem with the crossmember bolts. They were very tight, probably red loctite. I used the propane torch on a small flame to heat the heads and break the locker. They came out OK when warm.

You have to search for the fastners holding the grill,trim strips around th lights and the lights. Remove them, now you can get at the bottom bolts for the crossmember...use the torch...flip the crossmember and unhook the hood release cable.


Next I have to figure out how to get the bumper off and look at the lines and hoses...and then drain the coolant.


bill in tomahawk

Last edited by billintomahawk; 07-10-2018 at 05:30 AM.
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Old 07-10-2018, 06:59 AM   #3
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Default Re: Howl in the front '02-03 T1N, pivoting the radiator for engine inspection

two bolts behind the number plate, two clips above the steps, disconnect the temperature sensor and slide forward
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Old 07-10-2018, 12:10 PM   #4
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Default Re: Howl in the front '02-03 T1N, pivoting the radiator for engine inspection

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie 2002 4x4 View Post
two bolts behind the number plate, two clips above the steps, disconnect the temperature sensor and slide forward
Bill, to remove the bumper, remove your lisense plate and then the chrome cover it's bolted to. A sensor will be snapped into the bottom of it, so pop that out. Then you will see two holes. Inde those holes are 13mm bolts that need to be unscrewed. Then look above the two "steps" on either side of the bumper and there should be one plastic trim bolt holding the bumper to the frame above each step. Often they are missing if the bumper was removed by a careless technition before. Pry those two plastic pieces off and the bumper will slide forward and off. It's simpler than it sounds when I write it all out.
And the crossmember bolts are often difficult to remove.
The howl sounds like it's coming from your alternator. If it's from the passenger side.
Also, with the front end open like that, your are in a perfect position to do the cooling maintenance. I have a kit with all of the rotating pieces on the front of the engine that are part of the cooling system.
Belt, pulleys, water pump, etc... I also sell alternators.
Good luck!
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Old 07-11-2018, 01:52 AM   #5
billintomahawk
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Default Re: Howl in the front '02-03 T1N, pivoting the radiator for engine inspection

Thanks MMS.

This gives me hope for the OM612.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=58962



The bumper was broken everywhere held on by zip ties.



The temp sensor was just hanging.







The frikkinnnn transmission lines...I used the heat gun and PB Blaster. About 10 cycles for each one plus dig around the junctions with your knife so the blaster can penetrate. This job isn't for babies.
I used tinfoil as a heat shield to protect other components and localize the hot.
Tight wrenches helped. Turn the 19mm coupler only, hold with the 17mm piece.









Pulling a hose end off this pipe drains the radiator. Get ready, about 8 quarts of coolant coming down.
Eay to direct the stream by pulling the small hose off.







The rotten bastard itself.



What the last frikkin tech did. Nice work boy. Anal electrocution is too nice.





Now what?
Yes it's stripped and I swear it wasn't me.


bill in tomahawk

Last edited by billintomahawk; 07-11-2018 at 02:41 AM.
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Old 07-11-2018, 12:00 PM   #6
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Default Re: Howl in the front '02-03 T1N, pivoting the radiator for engine inspection

Quote:
Originally Posted by billintomahawk View Post
...
Now what?
Yes it's stripped and I swear it wasn't me.


bill in tomahawk
To my knowledge it will need a new radiator. There have been reports of successful swaps of tanks from one radiator to another.

Not that you asked...
Zip tied bumper.
The plastic cover has no structural "bumper" integrity. I would just re-install using a similar method rather than worrying about replacing the part.

vic
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Old 07-11-2018, 01:15 PM   #7
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Default Re: Howl in the front '02-03 T1N, pivoting the radiator for engine inspection

The transmission lines stripping out are extremely common, now that our "youngest" vans are 12+ years old. Exposure to salty winter roads seems to me to be the major difference between a little bit of rust here and there (west and Midwest vans) to the cancer I see way to often here on the east coast.
I have had very little success rethreading those transmission lines or the radiator holes once they are that bad. Alot of work only to have it leak again is pretty frustrating.
Unless the transmission lines are super rusty, I often do the cooling system maintenance kit without removing those lines. That's what I had to do in Mexico the other week because I had limited time and no easy access to those lines... Or any spare parts that I didn't bring with me or ship to myself ahead of time.
Take heart. What you are experiencing is not uncommon and at least by the end of it all you will 1.know your van very, very well and 2.have a van that is strong and reliable for many years to come.
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Old 07-11-2018, 02:42 PM   #8
billintomahawk
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Default Re: Howl in the front '02-03 T1N, pivoting the radiator for engine inspection

Thanks guys,
The radiator was replaced under warranty 40k miles ago in 2007 by Kayser Chrysler Center, Sauk City Wisconsin. The tech was Kevin Zeck, the bill was $1130.
It's easy to imagine what happened when the tech tried to install the lines as a unit causing misalignment and the disaster. It's a rookie mistake. I made a mistake like that when I was 18 on a carb fuel line...put the fear in me for life.

I'll play with it when I get it pivoted. There are still some good threads left and it was not leaking.
If I file back the nipple on the tank I might get to them and make a seal.
A new radiator won't break the bank.
I assume the line/system is under some pressure but I don't know how much?

Like you said, it's a learning process and this is basic owner tech to establish reliability.
Those lines were a disaster waiting to happen. Not any more.

Diesel is a new world for me.
And it's fun.
You meet the nicest people.

bill in tomahawk

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Old 07-11-2018, 03:00 PM   #9
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Default Re: Howl in the front '02-03 T1N, pivoting the radiator for engine inspection

The lines are under low pressure, probably about the same as the radiator (10-20psi). A 1/8 turn loose on one of the B nuts resulted in 1/3 a quart of fluid loss over a 10 hour drive for me.

If you don't mind the fitting being permanent, you could use some quality epoxy. Another option would be loctite high temp thread sealant. It cures to provide a hard and temp resistant seal which can be broken if needed. I would apply the loctite to the threads and the seal face. It will not cure if it gets pulled into the cooler, as it needs contact with metal.
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Last edited by Midwestdrifter; 07-11-2018 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 07-11-2018, 03:34 PM   #10
billintomahawk
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Default Re: Howl in the front '02-03 T1N, pivoting the radiator for engine inspection

Quote:
Originally Posted by Midwestdrifter View Post
The lines are under low pressure, probably about the same as the radiator (10-20psi). A 1/8 turn loose on one of the B nuts resulted in 1/3 a quart of fluid loss over a 10 hour drive for me.

If you don't mind the fitting being permanent, you could use some quality epoxy. Another option would be loctite high temp thread sealant. It cures to provide a hard and temp resistant seal which can be broken if needed. I would apply the loctite to the threads and the seal face. It will not cure if it gets pulled into the cooler, as it needs contact with metal.
Drifter,
Thanks.
That's where my head went. What scares me is that this whole deal will end up as an expedition ram jam gravel road van build out ultimately headed out to Moab, Baja or points south for the winter pulling my motorcycle. It's gonna get used hard.

Actually I cant believe the darned thing wasn't leaking. I will say it was on tight.
I've used thread formers in the past and high temp sealants.

The nice thing about doing this is that it makes future engine access so easy if you don't mind dropping the coolant.
That's so easy because the basc design places the engine up high and I am skinny.
Yada yada.

I'll shoot some better pics when I get it pivoted.

bill

Last edited by billintomahawk; 07-11-2018 at 03:44 PM.
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