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Old 12-16-2018, 09:21 AM   #41
kazozako
 
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Default Re: changing transmission fluid and filter on 2008 3500 nc3v

Thanks Mikeme for pics, I didn't need them, however great for everyone else to see how easy is actually to do complete drain and fluid change. Few years back I have posted thread about absolute necessity of precise level of fluid for smooth operation and longevity of transmission (with MB bulletin). 60000 miles ago mechanic taking my van in for other service commented that transmission is shot and probably needs overhaul or replacement. This proper fluid and filter (and gasket) service did complete resurrection. And no I did not missed any scheduled maintenance but it was just standard - drop the pan, clean it , put filter and refill with just 2 quarts missing from pan. Difference is only about 15 min to do proper full change.
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Old 12-31-2018, 03:14 AM   #42
tigerwillow1
 
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Default Re: changing transmission fluid and filter on 2008 3500 nc3v

I have a couple of questions before pulling the torque converter drain plug:

1. When replacing the plug, how do you get the thread started? No way of my fingers being able to hold and spin it.

2. Looks like it's easy to drop the plug into the bell housing and having it roll down to the front. If this happens, how do you retrieve it?

I'm assuming there no way to use a torque wrench on the converter drain plug.
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Old 03-15-2019, 10:28 AM   #43
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Default Re: changing transmission fluid and filter on 2008 3500 nc3v

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthebuilder View Post
I just finished my 60 K transmission service. I had read several posts before starting.
1. I removed the 4 bolts on the rear crossmember. I replaced them with 4 X M8 1.25 pitch 90 mm bolts. Placed a 4X4 block under the bolt heads and jacked up the tail shaft about 1.5 inches.
2. Drained, removed and cleaned the pan. Replaced the filter and gasket and reinstalled the pan.
3. lowered the tail shaft and reinstalled the original 4 bolts.
4. I removed the transmission cooler return line fitting with a 19 mm end wrench and removed the cooler line clamp with an 8 mm socket. These are on the right (passenger side) of the transmission. Ahead and above where the filler tube enters the transmission. The clamp holds both cooler lines in place.
5. I clamped a 3 foot piece of 9/16' I.D. tubing onto the threads of the cooler return line with a hose clamp. (1/2" might have fit also). I placed the other end of the tubing into a 5 qt oil jug, the kind that has a clear stripe on the side marker in liters and quarts.
6. Following a MB Youtube, I had only drained 4 quarts of fluid from the pan, I poured in (very slowly) 5 quarts of new fluid.
7. I had a helper start and stop the engine as 3 quarts pumped into the oil jug. I added 3 quarts and repeated twice. The final time I pumped out 3 quarts and added 2 quarts.
In total, I took out 4,3,3,and 3 for a total of 13 quarts. I put in 5,3,3 and 2. I started with 14 quarts of new fluid and ended up topping it up 1/2 quart when it was driven and warmed up. I may not have removed all of the system fluid but I know it is real close as the color now the same as fresh fluid. NOTICE: I DID NOT drain the torque converter.
No way you goy 13 qts without tc drain I drained mine and got 8 total qts.
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