First Transmission,then edc light, now no start HELP!!

Meatwagon.
You must have very poor connections in your fuel line for any line to dry out. The fuel system has to air tight to work , what type of hose clamps have you used on the fuel lines, any chance of a picture of your fuel filter. Eric.

MEAT_WAGON said:

Gday jaahn,
Had a quick look at my van today but couldn’t do the tests properly as I need someone with me to turn the key for me, ran the multi meter over all of the fuses though and all were good, tried another spray of starter fluid too.. made 2 knocks and then just kept winding. Further sprays not even a knock. Also wiggles the wires around through the fire wall and lost power to my mb2 diagnostic tool too. I guess the wires are buggered in there somewhere.
Also thanks a lot for your help mate, it’s really appreciated, since I have owned it this bus has sat there broken down longer than it has been going. I just have t had the money for a mechanic so I really need to work this out myself
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Hi
In my opinion the low cranking speed is not the problem. It may be a problem that will be still there in the future but is not the main one. If it was just slow cranking and you give it a bit of stating fluid it will speed up and go. But you have tried that many times you said. There is another problem underneath it all.
Eric suggests the fuel supply is a problem somewhere [perhaps the filter. Most likely if the lines are dry. But again perhaps it is another problem but not the main one. Fuel problems will not put the EDC light on usually. And if you wriggled the wires and lost the diagnostic tool that is powered by the ecu and main wiring it is starting to look very like electrical problems.
I would check all the wiring and the main connectors in the engine bay and bulkhead for problems by disconnecting them and inspecting the pins and cleaning and refitting. One by one. Earths too. The ecu connector also. Disconnect the battery lead first.
Jaahn

Eric Experience said:

Meatwagon.
You must have very poor connections in your fuel line for any line to dry out. The fuel system has to air tight to work , what type of hose clamps have you used on the fuel lines, any chance of a picture of your fuel filter. Eric.

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I’ll get one for you when I’m over there next. Hopefully today. I’ve replaced all the rings and the ones on the rail pressure sensor too. I’ve replaced all the hoses bar the y hose but I have ordered a new one yesterday. It is a new filter but Would you recommend replacing it with one of the filter without the water sensor in in it?


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jaahn said:

Hi
In my opinion the low cranking speed is not the problem. It may be a problem that will be still there in the future but is not the main one. If it was just slow cranking and you give it a bit of stating fluid it will speed up and go. But you have tried that many times you said. There is another problem underneath it all.
Eric suggests the fuel supply is a problem somewhere [perhaps the filter. Most likely if the lines are dry. But again perhaps it is another problem but not the main one. Fuel problems will not put the EDC light on usually. And if you wriggled the wires and lost the diagnostic tool that is powered by the ecu and main wiring it is starting to look very like electrical problems.
I would check all the wiring and the main connectors in the engine bay and bulkhead for problems by disconnecting them and inspecting the pins and cleaning and refitting. One by one. Earths too. The ecu connector also. Disconnect the battery lead first.
Jaahn

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Is there an easy way to remove the rubber grommet on the fire wall to be able to get to the the computer leads where they would be rubbing?


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Eric Experience said:

Meatwagon.
You must have very poor connections in your fuel line for any line to dry out. The fuel system has to air tight to work , what type of hose clamps have you used on the fuel lines, any chance of a picture of your fuel filter. Eric.

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It was only the return line.. the supply were free from bubbles


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Meatwagon,
Do you have a way to tow the sprinter & "clutch" start it to rule out the low rpm cranking speed & also allow the fuel system to prime properly.
My sprinter refused to start when the starter motor was on its way out because it wasn't turning over quick enough & no amount of starter fluid would help.

Iggy66 said:

Meatwagon,

Do you have a way to tow the sprinter & "clutch" start it to rule out the low rpm cranking speed & also allow the fuel system to prime properly.

My sprinter refused to start when the starter motor was on its way out because it wasn't turning over quick enough & no amount of starter fluid would help.

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No mate it’s an auto, sprint shift.


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I know it's a sprintshift & not an auto & that's why I suggested "clutch" starting it. Not many owners of sprintshifts know you can do this but it's a built in feature of the controller.

The clutch start procedure is

Ignition in the on position
Gearbox in neutral
Start rolling forward (or reverse) up to at least 10Km/h or more
Move gear selector to A (auto) position
The controller will select the appropriate gear & actuate the clutch to turn over the engine just the same as a conventional manual.

Cheers,
Iggy

Iggy66 said:

I know it's a sprintshift & not an auto & that's why I suggested "clutch" starting it. Not many owners of sprintshifts know you can do this but it's a built in feature of the controller.

The clutch start procedure is

Ignition in the on position
Gearbox in neutral
Start rolling forward (or reverse) up to at least 10Km/h or more
Move gear selector to A (auto) position
The controller will select the appropriate gear & actuate the clutch to turn over the engine just the same as a conventional manual.

Cheers,
Iggy

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Wow! Thanks mate! This is real handy to know!


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Hi guys.. got to finally got to do some more work on the bus. Still waiting on a properly wired obd2 adapter to come from China.. been 2 months now. But.....

May have found the culprit. Dropped the tank to clean it out and Inspect and the circlip type hose clamps have been replaced with work drive type which were loose. And could be cause ing the fuel pressure problems.
Cleaned out tank and will give it a try tomorrow.
Going around replacing all the wormdrive clamps with the full circle enclosed type with the bolt.
Replaced all the flimsy type fuses with new ones
Have new earth straps on order.
Fingers crossed
Does anyone know what fuse/relay has been bridged out here? I'm not sure what half of these fuses do..there is alot missing and doesn't really say.
Its an ex ambo there is **** everywhere.


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meatwagon.
Looks like you are well on the way to getting this vehicle sorted out. The fuel lines into the tank marked with arrows are the fuel in and out, the other hose is the fuel supply to the espar heater, in QLD you will not need it so find a piece of rod to push into the hose. The wiring on the ECU looks bad but it is easy to sort out, The red and brown that have been cut are just where someone has connected power and earth to something like a radio. If you can get hold of some heat shrink tubing you can unsolder the extra wire and then put the tubing over the factory wires after you have resoldered them. Eric.

Eric Experience said:

meatwagon.
Looks like you are well on the way to getting this vehicle sorted out. The fuel lines into the tank marked with arrows are the fuel in and out, the other hose is the fuel supply to the espar heater, in QLD you will not need it so find a piece of rod to push into the hose. The wiring on the ECU looks bad but it is easy to sort out, The red and brown that have been cut are just where someone has connected power and earth to something like a radio. If you can get hold of some heat shrink tubing you can unsolder the extra wire and then put the tubing over the factory wires after you have resoldered them. Eric.

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Thanks a tonne for your help mate.
On the fuse panel, there has been a fuse or relay bridged out do you have any idea what that is?
And I thought there was spouse to be a fuel pump in the tank? Or is that just newer ones?


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Is this what you meant with the espar heater?

And does anyone know what this hear fuse is that’s been bridged out?

Meatwagon,
The bolt in the hose does the job but looks a bit ordinary but with the other problems you won't care. There is no pump in your fuel tank. The wiring on the fuse panel is not standard, on normal vehicles there is nothing in that hole you could just leave it for now because the vehicle was running like that, later on when everything else is fixed you can just pull the link out and see what goes off. Eric.

All air out of lines.. tried tow starting still nothing.. wouldn’t even fire on starter fluid... time for a mechanic.. it’s beat me.. I’m done [emoji22][emoji22]


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Meat wagon.
Sorry you are disheartened. It probably needs a high pressure pump seal. If you take it to a mechanic he will want to want to put in new injectors and and other expensive random things. May be cheaper to truck it down to me in Melbourne. I will fix it easily at minimum cost. Eric.

Eric Experience said:

Meat wagon.
Sorry you are disheartened. It probably needs a high pressure pump seal. If you take it to a mechanic he will want to want to put in new injectors and and other expensive random things. May be cheaper to truck it down to me in Melbourne. I will fix it easily at minimum cost. Eric.

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Haha prob mate. Do you have a shop in melb? I’ve just move north not long ago. The plan was to get it sorted and come back south and grab the rest of my **** from Warragul. Where’s your shop dude? And thanks again for all of your help.
Checked again today, and there is still bubbles in the lines. New filter on the way and I’ll change out all the o rings again and try one more time. Proper adapter for my icarsoft mb2 should be here in a few days and hopefully that helps pin point a bit more.. but that’s the try..


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If I can’t sort it that might be an option. Send it to you and load up and drive it back.


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New member. Just came across this thread where starter fluid was mentioned. i am retired now but had my own workshop for many years after being in engine reconditioning machine shops. I had a customer bring a 350 chev in that was seized, the story was that he decided to self tune, there was no response on trying to start so sprayed a lot fluid then a lot more. he then had to leave it for fortnight for work commitments. came back and engine would not turn locked solid. turns out he had firing order right but in the wrong direction of rotation. when i tried to dismantle engine i found that all gudgeon pins were completely rusted and locked in the pistons, that stuff removed all signs of lubrication and then the delay let the rust move in. If anyone here has tried to remove a crank from a v8 when the rods wont pivot you will know what a time i had. This was a numbers matching monaro gts 350 and had to be saved. It took a couple of weeks of penetrine and heat to dismantle. So if you use it just use a little and stop. then find the reason it wont fire. and it is dangerous on petrol engines could blow a hole in piston crown. I have a 2014 313 motorhome so i will be lurking around this wonderful forum. Jack mcIntyre. South West Rocks

Thank you jaan. Regards Jack.