SSTraveler - I just re-read your posting on the installation of your new Compressor base refrigerator in the Unity. I now understand that you closed off the two exhaust windows, LTV put in place on the outside wall where the Dometic refrigerator was installed. You now have the exhaust air from the refrigerator evaporator coils flowing out into the interior of the RV. You are then relying on the AC cooling of the interior of the RV to exchange the hot exhaust of the compressor refrigerator to the outside of the RV. Very nice design choice, since you indicated your rarely if ever boon dock. Since I do both shore power and boon docking, your installation approach will not work for me; when I am boon docking. I also now understand why you are able to set the thermostat of the refrigerator to # 3 or # 4 and maintain the kinds of freezer and "ice box" compartments; when the outside air is over 100 Deg F!
If you can find the information on the "Compressor Controller - Model # - Mfg. etc. " I would appreciate the data. I assume your refrigerator use a Defross Compressor, and like the NovaKool uses a SECOMP Controller for managing the compressor operations.
I don't know why just using interior coach air wouldn't work for boon dockers as well. The key point is that interior temperatures should be lower than exterior temperatures, especially when the sun is shining directly on the Refrigerator exterior wall. With all your batteries and solar I'm guessing you maintain an interior temp of less than 85 degrees. Much better than the actual outside temps. The compressor Refrigerator exhausts at a temp of around 90 degrees so circulating interior cooler air, of less than 85 degrees, over the back of the Refrigerator is still better than just pulling the 90+ hot outside air around the back. My Isotherm has a 120mm fan at the compressor that kicks on when the compressor kicks on to exhaust the compressor heat. It then turns off when the compressor turns off. When I remodeled and took in the exterior space, to be interior space now, it gave me about a 4" space running from the top of the microwave/Refrigerator cabinet to the floor. So I added another 120mm fan to the microwave shelf to pull air out of this back space and to add circulation for the microwave operation. Now that I am using the Refrigerator I can feel that it's fan has enough CFM to exhaust the space so I am going to add a switch to my extra fan so I can switch it on as I feel is needed, particularly if I am going to operate the microwave for longer than a couple of minutes. I'm not sure about the compressor information you are referring to but Isotherm does make a couple of smart controller for boon docking use. I got my Isotherm from Defender Marine and the site has a lot of information on the Refrigerator and controllers,
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|2276179|2276204|2276226|2276235&id=1770690,
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2276179|2276204|2276226|2276232&id=2407016, or
https://www.defender.com/product3.j...-1|2276179|2276204|2276226|2276232&id=4161337. I called them to answer some questions and they have great support and actually called the supplier when they couldn't answer my questions. I also called and talked with the US service representative,
https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/us/contact-dealer-list/, in Florida after I installed my Refrigerator to answer some questions. This is essentially a frost free Refrigerator because if ice does form on the back wall I just lower the setting and it melts quickly and the water runs down the drain. I found this out by trial and error to come to my final temp setting.
According to my research, the Isotherm 219 Current Draw on 12vdc is:
Compressor (Danfoss) running: 6.0 Amp @ 12 Volt DC (however the manual states a maximum of 7 amps).
Average: 2.3 - 2.5 Amp @ 12 Volt DC (Average draw measured at 43°F in refrigerator, 72°F ambient temperature). When ever I look at my battery monitor I see numbers of 1.5-5amps but that is everything I have on battery and in 95+ outside temps. My solar easily handles when I stop for periods. I also found I can just switch the batteries off for 4-6 hours with no major temp changes. I discovered how well insulated the Isotherm was when I took my rig to Equalizer for the Leveler install. I had left the main house battery switch on when I dropped it off at 7 am, but when I got back to my campsite at 4pm and was setting up again I realized that Equalizer had turned the disconnect off for the installation. I opened the freezer to see how hot it might be and the ice bucket of ice cubes were barely melted. I then checked the Refrigerator and it maybe heated up by 4 degrees, but was still reading 42 degrees at the door. I was very pleased to discover that I can actually just turn the batteries of if needed.
Here are the links to the Isotherm site as well,
https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/...-fridges-165-320-l/cruise-219-upright-silver/,
https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/us/products/cooling-technology/isotherm-smart-energy-control/ and
https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/us/products/cooling-technology/isotherm-smart-energy-control/. Also,they have informative downloads .