coleman series 47000 failure

My Coleman Marc AC / Heat Pump has stopped working. this is a 2014 view 24G. I have determined that the compressor is not operational. When the compressor is called on, the unit gets hot and trips the compressor overload breaker. I have checked the R and the S coils on the compressor they measure .5 ohms and 4.1 ohms together they read 4.7 ohms. I'd say those are good readings. l have pulled out the start and run caps and both measure exactly what the uf listing on the cap is. I am thinking the motor has frozen up somehow. maybe a bad bearing. I can feel it humming when called on to work but as I stated above it just gets hot and shuts down.
I'm thinking its time to replace the unit. Does any one have an idea that I have not already tried?
(1) And if I am going to replace the unit, what are some recommendations?
(2) It appears the replacement is straight forward, Is this a project that I can do myself. I am mechanically inclined and I have a tractor that could lift the unit to the top of my coach. What may be some pitfalls?
Thanks
Thanks

OK so I know next to nothing about heat pumps. However in dealing with electric motors I have found they can freeze up after sitting around awhile. In one end of the motor shaft is (usually) a slot where a screw driver can be used to spin the motor's rotor. Its usually found under a cap. If stuck try giving it a spin with power applied to help get it turning. Worth a try, good luck!

Probably most important thing is the gasket/seal between roof and the unit.

JackinVT said:

OK so I know next to nothing about heat pumps. However in dealing with electric motors I have found they can freeze up after sitting around awhile. In one end of the motor shaft is (usually) a slot where a screw driver can be used to spin the motor's rotor. Its usually found under a cap. If stuck try giving it a spin with power applied to help get it turning. Worth a try, good luck!

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This motor and the compressor it powers are both inside a sealed metal 'can' of sorts which can't be opened, so he has no access to it and he can't try spinning the shaft manually

I agree with the OP's conclusion - The coils test good, the caps test good so about the only thing left is a physical lock-up of either the motor or the compressor - I would bet on the compressor. Time for a replacement and with the cost of changing out the compressor and recharging it, I think I would spend that money toward a new unit rather than an expensive repair of a 6 year old unit

Don

Alphacarina said:

This motor and the compressor it powers are both inside a sealed metal 'can' of sorts which can't be opened, so he has no access to it and he can't try spinning the shaft manually

I agree with the OP's conclusion - The coils test good, the caps test good so about the only thing left is a physical lock-up of either the motor or the compressor - I would bet on the compressor. Time for a replacement and with the cost of changing out the compressor and recharging it, I think I would spend that money toward a new unit rather than an expensive repair of a 6 year old unit

Don

Click to expand...

That is my thoughts exactly.
Thanks

Remove the Coleman roof unit and install a $1000 split system that is both quiet and more efficient.

I know nothing about these units - but what I would try next if you haven't already done so is to cycle the reversing valve several times. And attempt to confirm that it is actually switching fully. Also, before I gave up completely, I would give the compressor unit several good hard thumps from different directions while it is trying to start. FWIW.

There could be a massive slug of oil in the return line to the compressor and possibly the Colorado cold temperatures have it solidified extra gnarly thick - with cover removed a high-noon sun baking of the plumbing might give some results, even some mild heat gun action on supply/return lines and the compressor can, gunning it to raise pressures and soften the oil.. I've started freezers that would not turn over and had their over-temp limit switches cut out in the dead of West Virginia Winter at a remote property barn by warming the coils repeatedly until the refrigerant felt like flowing, but I don't recommend using burning stove fuel on rags draped on the condenser coils like I had to.

That is kind of my thinking on the reversing valve - maybe if the flow is blocked the compressor is becoming hydraulically locked.