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Old 12-21-2009, 05:44 AM   #1
sikwan
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Default Coolant Change

The van has ~36000 miles, so I figure it'll be a good time to change the coolant.

Van: 2006 T1N OM647
Coolant Capacity: 10 liters (10.5 quarts or 2.64 gallons)
Tools: Torx bits to remove grille and left hand side headlight.
Optional Tools: shorty flatblade screwdriver and pliers for initially removal of drain plug.
Parts: 3/8in ID x 1/2in OD x 4ft length tubing, Zerex G-05 Anti-Freeze, 3 gallons of distilled water.

You don't really need to remove the grille or left side headlight if you're not planning to add a drain tube.

I'm adding a drain tube so that I can avoid the mess. It will stay mounted for future drains.

The coolant drains out the nipple at the center of the picture.
IMGP0008.JPG

I had a clear tube laying around that had the right ID (3/8") and OD (1/2") to use over the drain. The OD is not so important except it was easier to stretched the tube over the drain because of the thin wall. Notice the red drain plug.
IMGP0039.JPG
I decided to route it under and around the Espar heater and down through a hole in the panel.

I could not get enough strength to open the drain plug, so I had to use a stubby flatblade screwdriver and a plier to break open the drain plug.
IMGP0009.JPG
After that I opened it some more and the fluid started to flow. Some turquoise fluid came out.

The tube ends near the left front tire. When done, I tuck it into the front bumper.
IMGP0010.JPG
Draining took forever with the radiator cap removed. I walked away to do something else for 30 minutes.

After it finished draining, I removed the drain plug and this is what it looked like.
IMGP0013.JPG
I didn't realize the washer was metal until I took it off. I thought it was some glue or a washer gone bad.

I knew I didn't get everything out because I filled it with only ~1.8 gallons of distilled water. I went for a drive around town to hopefully purge or dilute what's left in the system.
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Old 12-21-2009, 05:45 AM   #2
sikwan
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Default Re: Coolant Change

I read Vic's thread and he was using Zerex G-05 coolant from Napa.

I also found a gallon of it for $13.65 w/9.25% tax at my local Napa store.
IMGP0015.JPG

The coolant that came out was turquoise. Zerex's version is gold/yellowish. I have read mixing red (Dexcool) and green was a no-no, so I hope this wasn't the same case. On the back of the Zerex container, it was definitely recommended for heavy duty diesels.

Since I was doing two things to the Sprinter this past weekend, I had very little time to investigate how I could remove the remaining coolant in the system. The second drain netted a clearer turquoise in color fluid, but there was definitely some left over coolant in the system.

I had an issue with the second fill with Zerex and distilled water. The low coolant light came on even though I thought I had it filled to the MAX line. I did notice when I turned my thermostat to max heat, cool air was still flowing through the vents even though the temp gauge registered over 110F and the Espar heater was running. It was not until I moved the van back to leave when the hot air started to flow through. I think this is when MAX fill became under the MIN fill. This is when my low coolant light came on.
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Old 12-21-2009, 08:02 PM   #3
Hit The Road Jack
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Default Re: Coolant Change

Seek, I'll stick with the factory recommended coolant thank you...
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Old 12-22-2009, 01:49 AM   #4
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Default Re: Coolant Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit The Road Jack View Post
Seek, I'll stick with the factory recommended coolant thank you...
Why?? Is there some reason you don't think Zerex G05 is the proper product?

From the 2004 Sprinter owner's manual:

Coolant Use coolant approved to MB 325.0, such as Valvoline GO5, or an equivalent
Extended Life Coolant.


From my notes. Sorry I don't have the original source.

"Zerex G05 (Mopar 68029698-AA), incidentally, is the initial fill in PT Cruisers and many other Chrysler products. For the Sprinter, Mercedes and several Jeep models, the initial fill is the Glysantin G05, which is made by BASF, and is the same product found in the Mopar 05066286-AA jug. Some models, especially in Canada, use Zerex G48 (Mopar 6804893-AA) as the initial fill. All three of these have identical chemistries, and if you take the Sprinter to a dealer for a cooling system drain and renew, you could get any one of the three put into the system, as they are interchangeable and mixable (even though they are different colors, actually).

EURO Peak Coolant/Antifreeze manufactured by Old World Industries is also the same chemistry, and also is on The List of MB Spec 325.0 coolants. But I don't think you can get that here in North America, at least not in the States, anyway."

From the Valvoline Zerex site:

http://www.valvoline.com/products/br.../antifreeze/42

I see nothing wrong with using the Zerex G05 coolant in the correct ratio or mixing it with other proper spec coolants regardless of color. AP/vic
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Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 12-22-2009 at 01:51 AM.
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Old 12-22-2009, 08:29 PM   #5
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Default Re: Coolant Change

FWIW. I just purchased a gallon jug of Zerex G05 coolant full strength for $10.49 + tax at our local NAPA store.

My low coolant light came on today. When I re-installed my circulating pump and tightened the clamps on the plastic inlet and outlet I was very careful not to over-tighten them so as to not crack the plastic. Too careful I guess because the one had a slight leak. I know enough to double check things like that after a couple heat/cool cycles. Yep, I know to do that. A couple turns on the clamp screw and all is well. AP/vic
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Old 07-06-2010, 01:52 AM   #6
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Default Re: Coolant Change

I found that after draining the coolant resevoir, radiator, and engine block I still had to drain the Espar lines and squeeze the excess coolant from the 2" lines between the radiator and engine. I was then able to add a gallon of Zerex G05 and a gallon of distilled water. I ran the engine to 180 degrees at which point the low coolant light lit. I shut it down and allowed it to cool. I added just over half a gallon of additional 50/50 mix. I will recheck after another temp cycle to see if any additional is needed.

PS. I found that a foot long extension was needed to reach the engine drain plug as it is conviently placed under a number of other components. The extra room allowed me to work the 17mm socket and 1/2" ratchet in a more open space.

All in all a fairly simple maintenance task.
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Old 08-12-2010, 05:18 AM   #7
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Default Re: Coolant Change

I run it to temp with the cap off, adding as the level drops.
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Old 08-12-2010, 03:00 PM   #8
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Default Re: Coolant Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by famof8 View Post
I found that after draining the coolant resevoir, radiator, and engine block I still had to drain the Espar lines and squeeze the excess coolant from the 2" lines between the radiator and engine. I was then able to add a gallon of Zerex G05 and a gallon of distilled water. I ran the engine to 180 degrees at which point the low coolant light lit. I shut it down and allowed it to cool. I added just over half a gallon of additional 50/50 mix. I will recheck after another temp cycle to see if any additional is needed.

PS. I found that a foot long extension was needed to reach the engine drain plug as it is conviently placed under a number of other components. The extra room allowed me to work the 17mm socket and 1/2" ratchet in a more open space.

All in all a fairly simple maintenance task.


Where you able to drain all three components from 1 drain valve or are you draining reservoir, radiator and engine block from 3 different points?


Cheers
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Old 08-22-2010, 02:09 AM   #9
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Default Re: Coolant Change

Don't be frightened by SIKwan's Pirate picture - you do not have to remove the grille, and the headlight needs to only only be rotated, to install a drain hose:
P8211611.JPG

I agree with SIKwan - the hole next to the heater is too far away and drops onto the bumper from there. It is better to run the hose to the inside of the frame:

P8211613.JPG

Last edited by hkpierce; 08-22-2010 at 03:22 AM.
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Old 10-31-2010, 01:01 AM   #10
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Default Re: Coolant Change

thanks for the info- very helpful!
tried to force a 3/8" ID on the nipple- barely worked- guess mines bigger : )
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