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Old 04-17-2018, 02:28 PM   #1
NNGVan
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Default Basic Layout Sprinter 3500

Hey everyone,

I'm finally breaking ground on my build. Repairs went well and I'm ready to get stared. I stripped him down to metal on the inside, removed any rust inside and out, re primed with Rust Preventer Rustolme stuff and used a Foam it green 1" layer on everything top to bottom save the support beam faces. I have some mock ups that I'm looking to take any feedback on. (This aren't perfectly to scale just a rough)

Toilet will be a version of Thetford C223S Caravan & Motorhome Cassette Toilet which has a outside panel for removal. I will be doing quite a bit of cutting outside in. One is for the toilet removal, Heater, and LPG tank. Illegally I can't carry the Propane inside the cabin, I know a lot of people do it, but I can pick up a template that is designed for Sprinters for about $165 with locking key.

The two couches will slide together to form a larger bed. There will be a table between with telescopic poles for eating position (Higher than couch), Sleeping, leveling with "couch" to span the entire width of the back. Removal for perfect shot front to back.

Toilet/Shower will be a fully build wet room with drain I have a friend that works for bath fitters and can mold/shape/install custom base and walls that are all one piece of plastic. No Seems until I cut one for the toilet eject in the back.

I'll be building custom boxes for the back (not sure on the size) but since I have a 3500 I want to keep as much weight on the back axle as I can. Blue is for Water, Grey for waste, Red for hot. Water can be taken in from the drivers side back.

Very rough of the LPG which will run the heater, water heater, stove as once again laws prevent me from hooking this stuff up and insurance requires it to be licensed.

1320 watts on the roof with VBHN330SA16 330W Panasonic Panels, controller, charger still up in the air. May drop this down depending on my A/Con tests now it's insulated.

DC to DC charging using a 1000W Inverter from the main battery to the Solar controller as "shore" power. It shouldn't pull more than 80A from the Alternator which I believe is in spec with 12V remote on.

8 400AH LFP (LiFEPO4) batteries still up in the air about 2p4s or 8s. Also may sell these and get a different setup depending on my A/Con tests.

Comments, questions, recommendations welcomed.

Rough - Couch Mode - Copy.png
Rough - LPG - Copy.png
Rough - Plumbing - Copy.png
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:12 PM   #2
Midwestdrifter
 
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Default Re: Basic Layout Sprinter 3500

If to scale, your shower room looks a bit claustrophobic. Pay attention to your weight left/right. You may need to move some heavier items to the other side depending on water tank location.

You might consider a toilet option that doesn't require cutting the van body. A cassette unti with internal instead of external panel? Toilets wear out, or get upgraded, and having a hole in the body causes issues down the road. Plus you may decide to reconfigure the van later on.
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:24 AM   #3
NNGVan
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Default Re: Basic Layout Sprinter 3500

Quote:
Originally Posted by Midwestdrifter View Post
If to scale, your shower room looks a bit claustrophobic. Pay attention to your weight left/right. You may need to move some heavier items to the other side depending on water tank location.

You might consider a toilet option that doesn't require cutting the van body. A cassette unti with internal instead of external panel? Toilets wear out, or get upgraded, and having a hole in the body causes issues down the road. Plus you may decide to reconfigure the van later on.
It's not exactly to scale after I'm done getting 10 years of oil and grim off the floor I'll lay some tape and get a better idea.
I here you about cutting, but I'm going to have to cut for Propane and the heater anyways. Whats one more hole?

Good Idea, I was worried about the balance so I may move the Fresh water tank over to the Passenger Side and the Waste to the Drivers. I know which one will be full most of the time vs the other being drained.

Did you spray foam on your own or hire someone to do it? I plan on doing the same. Foam it green kit or something.
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Last edited by NNGVan; 04-18-2018 at 02:27 AM.
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:28 AM   #4
Midwestdrifter
 
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Default Re: Basic Layout Sprinter 3500

I did it myself. About 1-1.5" all over. Worked well.
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:53 AM   #5
NNGVan
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Default Re: Basic Layout Sprinter 3500

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Originally Posted by Midwestdrifter View Post
I did it myself. About 1-1.5" all over. Worked well.
How much board foot did you buy? I'm wondering if 200 will be enough or if I should get the 600 and just eat the cost in loss.
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Old 04-18-2018, 04:40 AM   #6
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Default Re: Basic Layout Sprinter 3500

200 was barely enough in the 140, and I did not do the rear window areas. You could easily use the 600. Lots of other uses. Insulating under body tanks, the back side of front door panels. The front and slider step wells. The rear wheel wells etc.
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2004 T1N | Overland Conversion in Process Completed...For now... | 101,000 118,XXX 137,078 150,000 miles | 140" | High Roof | My Build Thread
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Old 04-18-2018, 06:15 AM   #7
NNGVan
2800 3500 Sprinter NNGVan
 
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Default Re: Basic Layout Sprinter 3500

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Originally Posted by Midwestdrifter View Post
200 was barely enough in the 140, and I did not do the rear window areas. You could easily use the 600. Lots of other uses. Insulating under body tanks, the back side of front door panels. The front and slider step wells. The rear wheel wells etc.
Sold. I'll order that tonight.
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