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Old 10-20-2018, 07:39 PM   #51
Adolphus
 
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Default Re: No turning back now

My pull out shower hose stuck again! This time it won’t happen again. I had already moved the hose clamp to give the largest curling radius, but still stuck when trying to push it back in. This time I adjusted the hoses and cut a small access hole that allows future hose jam corrections without taking off the sink (again). Also fixed a kink in the cold water supply while I was at it by using the heat gun to soften it and then made round again and wrapped it with heavy duty tape. Then chamfered the cabinet to round the inside edge so it wouldn’t compress the hose again.
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Old 11-01-2018, 05:13 PM   #52
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Generator/rack completed. The challenge had been to adjust generator height so the adjacent fiamma rack functions properly for two bikes and still have adequate room for the license plate bracket to be welded to the base of the generator rack. All’s well and enough room for all. Next task is to secure a 120V flexible cable from the transfer switch through one of the now unused original license plate light holes and weatherproof it. Trying to decide on whether to build a box around the generator for traveling or just a Sunbrella fabric cover.
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Last edited by Adolphus; 11-01-2018 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 11-01-2018, 08:28 PM   #53
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I was going to suggest an Aluminess box, which are sized for the Honda generators, but I don't think the rack will clear the box when the rack has bikes on it...

They call it a Galley Box: https://www.aluminess.com/accessories/boxes/ But you could probably get something similar made locally, cheaper, that would hug the generator closer...
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Old 11-01-2018, 10:29 PM   #54
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I’m leaning toward fabricating it out of lightweight plywood since I don’t need extra security beyond the lowpro lockdown plate, but if I go the box route then I’ve got to think through whether I use a fan or just keep open to airflow with doors. I seem to remember someone recommend 500 cfm however most high velocity bathroom fans only reach 150. The other option is possibly two granger 100 cfm fans that would be 36W total if that would be the ticket. Any thoughts?

Last edited by Adolphus; 11-02-2018 at 03:49 AM.
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:53 PM   #55
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Right original license plate light location turns out to be perfect for running the 120V connection from the transfer switch through the door to the generator.
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Old 11-07-2018, 04:38 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adolphus View Post
I’m leaning toward fabricating it out of lightweight plywood since I don’t need extra security beyond the lowpro lockdown plate, but if I go the box route then I’ve got to think through whether I use a fan or just keep open to airflow with doors. I seem to remember someone recommend 500 cfm however most high velocity bathroom fans only reach 150. The other option is possibly two granger 100 cfm fans that would be 36W total if that would be the ticket. Any thoughts?
Did you read my post in the 5th page? Regardless of what you do, if it's running in a box even with a fan you need to worry about the heat created from the exhaust. I'd recommend insulating and routing it separately as an exit from the box. I used waterproof boat access holes to gain entry to the top and both sides.
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Old 11-07-2018, 05:03 PM   #57
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Would you please provide some pics of your box setup? I’m not sure what the boat hull covers are and would like your source for the 500cfm fan you chose. Thanks!
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Old 11-09-2018, 04:16 AM   #58
OldWest
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This thread has a nice generator box. Looks like it has plenty of ventilation with grate floor and wall vents. Looks like controls are easily accessible.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57457

Some other links to boxes:

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...=Generator+box

Autocamp's box:

http://eat-drink-men-women.blogspot....rt-21.html?m=1

Last edited by OldWest; 11-09-2018 at 04:36 AM. Reason: Add lonks.
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Old 11-30-2018, 01:18 AM   #59
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This week I focused on the brake controller project and completed threading a missing "blue wire" under the car from the rear bumper Apex Delphi 2.8 connector (new pin) to under the dash. Also completed prepping B+ power wire with a 30A auto resetting circuit breaker at the driver's seat a la autocamp's location. Of note, the circuit breaker could have been placed at the back of the seat instead of by on the side by the other seat fuses since I did not remove the front seat, but slid it all the way forward and removed the fiberboard cover to access the "B+" 12V power (after I disconnected the battery). I have been wistfully gawking at the Redarc towpro Elite brake controller since it integrates into a dash with one small push/rotate control button...but will likely use the Tekonsha P3 I already own. Once the brake controller connector arrives I'll find out if using the tap fuse for the brake signal (fuse 5 under the steering wheel) was a good idea.

Also added a green LED to my DSI water heater switch panel (with an in-line current limiting resister under the shrink tubing) since I forget to turn it off occasionally.
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Last edited by Adolphus; 11-30-2018 at 01:40 AM.
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Old 12-01-2018, 10:59 PM   #60
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The brake light tap fuse approach was a bust. It just outputs battery voltage, not brake signal when pedal pressed. I had to tap into the wire directly off the brake signal wire after all. All’s good finally after I got the pesky harness connector reattached to the brake switch.
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Last edited by Adolphus; 12-02-2018 at 10:35 PM.
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