Crank but no start

Sprinter99

New member
2004 dodge sprinter was running good and then after a job I went to leave and now it cranks but no start. I have fuel coming to and through fuel filter. I do have a P0087 code but I have had it the past and it didn't affect the starting and always cleared itself. I appreciate any help from your sprinter gurus.
 

Rob S

2018 Navion 24G IQ on 2016 Sprinter
Re: Crank but start

Try a search on this forum - for crank no start, topic has been discussed often enough.

Easiest fix is sometimes insufficient voltage after cranking, if so boosting the battery might make it go.
 

Sprinter99

New member
Re: Crank but start

Thank you for you reply. I have search the forum but I haven't found the exact problem I have. I have fuel going through the fuel filter up to the high pressure pump. New battery and even jumper cables during crank for extra help. I disconnected the return fuel line by the fuel rail and pinched off both of them and cranked engine for ten seconds and no fuel came out. How can I tell if the high pressure fuel pump is working? I loosed the out going fitting from the high pressure pump and I didn't notice any fuel come out. I have worked on gasoline engines all my life and this diesel is my first. Any guidance is appreciated and I will continue to search the forum. Many thanks!
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Well, a P0087 is an OBD-generic code for "fuel rail pressure too low" ...

But a no-start condition can also be caused by the crankshaft or camshaft position sensor not reporting

Your test of "no fuel return" hints that the fuel valving solenoid (at the high pressure pump, i think) may not be opening ... but that can be caused by the ECU deciding "if i can't see the crank/camshaft, i'm not going to allow fuel"
(but without walking thru the manuals, i don't know "which comes first: fuel pressure or shaft-sensing?")

Full 2003 and 2006 service manuals are available at: http://aie-services-2.net/Sprinter/
Those cover the what/where/how of the systems.
On the off-chance that the 2003 manual set doesn't include one, here is the 2004 Powertrain diagnostic manual: View attachment 2004-VA-Powertrain.pdf
...which covers the "try this, then this, then look for this, then this...." sequences
(you'll note that "P0087" isn't listed, since it's an OBD message, not an MB error code)

good luck
--dick
 

Rob S

2018 Navion 24G IQ on 2016 Sprinter
Did you try applying power to it directly to see if it clicks?

If so the problem is not the solenoid itself, it is that somebody isn't energizing it...
 

Sprinter99

New member
I will see when I get home tonight to check if the solenoid clicks when the key is turned on. Thank you for your help
 

Sprinter99

New member
Did you try applying power to it directly to see if it clicks?

If so the problem is not the solenoid itself, it is that somebody isn't energizing it...
I checked with my test light and I have power going to the solenoid but no click noise or sound of being energized.
 

Sprinter99

New member
Start by looking for lose connections, burnt inline fuse, failed wire.


But there is power going to the solenoid with the key in the on position. Wouldn't that mean that the problem is with solenoid?
I didn't run a jumper wire to the solenoid because the test showed that with key in the on position there was voltage present. Maybe I am misunderstanding what you posted.
Thanks for taking the time to reply


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Handyvan

Member
I hope that I am not too far out of line with this posting, it not dealing with fuel issues. That said, similar comments would have helped me when I was looking for a cause/remedy for my no-start-when-hot on my 2004 2.7 L t1n Dodge Sprinter with 92k miles. I usually had to wait about 20 minutes, then it would start, after experiencing a crank but no start symptom. I read elsewhere(also mentioned here by Autostaretx) about bad cam and crank sensors possibly causing a no-start-when-hot situation. Youtube helped me with sensor location and tips. I replaced both sensors with reputable brand parts, and I no longer have the problem. I know it was a shot in the semi darkness, but my van is healthy now and it cost less than $80.00 US. with online parts sources. I don't know if it is true for my van, but I read a post somewhere that cranking 10 times in a row with no start would cause a need-to-be-towed to a qualified shop situation because the onboard computer is designed to shut things down in this situation.
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
I don't know if it is true for my van, but I read a post somewhere that cranking 10 times in a row with no start would cause a need-to-be-towed to a qualified shop situation because the onboard computer is designed to shut things down in this situation.
As far as i know ... the T1N does NOT do such a ten-times-you're-out procedure.

(the Espar booster/auxiliary heater might).

--dick
 

VanIsle1975

2016 4x4 144 lowroof
hey guys...03 t1n mine wouldn't start either..towed to shop...crank n cam sensor...they replaced crank sensor to the upper right of starter if looking into engine compartment...all good...next morning..same situation..no start...no cell's...could it also be the cam sensor as well..both going offline?? it ran for a day then died again...mind blowing...
 

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