solar question

tonyhawk

New member
Hello,

Anyone know if the adventurous has a junction block or circuit breaker between the solar panels and the solar controller. Just got the van and it has two solar controllers. the one in the back doesn't show any input from the panels (green light out). I assume that there is an issue with the wire.

On an aside, I added the display module and noticed that the load shows a voltage but never a current. Is this normal? (Also, the voltages on the roadtrek information panel and solar controller don't match. eg. the roadtrek panel would show 12.80V while the solar controller is showing fully charged at 13.6V)
 

Moto Vita

Active member
My 2017 with Ecotrek 400 doesn't, but if you have two controllers you have a different system. If you post more info about your van and it's equipment you may get more information.
 

tonyhawk

New member
Hello Moto,

I have the 800 ecotrek adventurous. The entire roof has panels on it. I assume that they separated the system into two separate controllers. The one in the front (above the sink) seems to be working but the one in the back left doesn't show an input from the PV.
 

tonyhawk

New member
Hello,

Just want to put this out there for anyone else having trouble since I couldn't find any information on it. Basically, the wires enter on the left middle of the van from the roof. The problem was that roadtrek had the positive and negative reversed at the controller. They even had put the red tape on the negative wire. All working now.
 

Moto Vita

Active member
Hello,

Just want to put this out there for anyone else having trouble since I couldn't find any information on it. Basically, the wires enter on the left middle of the van from the roof. The problem was that roadtrek had the positive and negative reversed at the controller. They even had put the red tape on the negative wire. All working now.
So what does the other controller do? Or are there two pairs of wire coming in with one pair going to the rear controller?
 
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tonyhawk

New member
the rear controller is wired to the rear half of the solar panels. The large panel in the front is connected to the front controller. The rear one is connected to 4 panels in the rear. I didn't see where the other pair of wires are since they seem to be underneath the large front panel
 

DIYpilot

New member
I have an eco trek 800. Why are two solar controllers needed? Why not just use one? I've never seen either one anywhere near the 40 amp limit. (my interpretation of the MT50 display)
 

tonyhawk

New member
I haven't verified if they are using the 30A or 40A version. Anyways, yes, it would appear that they are not using anywhere near the limit. Do you have one or two controller?
 

DIYpilot

New member
I have two controllers.

However, long story, I'm about to remove the rear four panels while doing some fan and AC changes. I think all four of those panels go to the second, rear controller. Other than not having any solar charging to those two ecotrek modules, I'm assuming functionality will be unchanged when I unplug & remove the panels for a couples weeks -- traveling in the meantime. When the changes are done, I will not have the room to reinstall all of the original panels. I'm trying to figure out what version 2 of the roof is going to look like and which components will still be involved. Ie, if using just the one controller for all panels, will all four ecotrek modules be receiving the solar input? Or is each controller dedicated to a pair of batteries. etc.....

Thanks
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Without knowing the details of the entire existing setup, it's very hard to advise "why they did it that way" and whether you can join all of the (final) panels to one controller (at least "efficiently").

You might even be ahead of the game if you removed *all* of the panels and controllers and started afresh with new panels (and a mated controller) that made better use of your future roof space. Perhaps a single 360 watt higher voltage panel (or two) instead of a mess of smaller ones.

--dick
 

DIYpilot

New member
I agree -- that is a tempting option.

Without knowing the details of the entire existing setup, it's very hard to advise "why they did it that way" and whether you can join all of the (final) panels to one controller (at least "efficiently").

You might even be ahead of the game if you removed *all* of the panels and controllers and started afresh with new panels (and a mated controller) that made better use of your future roof space. Perhaps a single 360 watt higher voltage panel (or two) instead of a mess of smaller ones.

--dick
 

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