HelloPitty
Member
Looking good inside there so far! Like the recessed lighting!
Long thread here on NCV3 wheels on the T1N dually.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30471
Hellopitty is probably running the stock 16" tire of 225/75R16. On the dually with NCV3 16" wheels you are limited in the widths you can run due to tire spacing at the rear.
Correct. The tire cage does have two position options. The "normal" position will fit 225 75r16 tires.It came up recently that the front pivot point for the spare holder can be lowered to allow a larger/wider wheel .
nice build!
seeing as you're getting ready to head out into the great wide open and we're heading into summer... i'd make sure your cooling system is tip top.. cooling fan (viscous clutch and fan assembly) should be a priority.. followed by serp belt (contitech PK2260), belt tensioner (Litens), water pump, thermostat. if you look at the serp belt circuit and the belt tensioner and you see the tensioner moving back and forth at idle that's a pretty sure sign it needs to be replaced. of course the water pump is kind of a big job, so unless there are tell tail signs of improper glycol circulation, you're probably okay there. Thermostats can fail but not all too often and you can test it by putting it in hot water with a thermometer (meat or the like) and it should start to open up at 195F. Coolant flush is probably needed using a flushing agent followed by a refill with the proper coolant (Zerex G05 collant). If you do the coolant flush and use the non diluted coolant where you need to add water, make sure to use distilled water.
i just replaced a failed viscous fan clutch for someone that only had 50k miles on it!! there are a couple threads out there showing the vfc/fan assembly is the primary work horse in the cooling system (assuming everything else is at least operating somewhat adequately).
over heating is the number one killer of beloved T1N Sprinters.. and it only takes one event to warp and or crack a head. not to mention running to hot, but not having an event which goes into the 250 (red) range, can cause small localized warping issues that cause things like leaking injector seals (black death). People get all worked up regarding leaking injector seals, which they should, but in reality it's a potential (definitely not always the case) sign of over heating, so they fix the leaking injector, but don't dive deep into the root cause...
happy trails. you're going to have a great time!!
JB,
I'm a new old T1N owner like you and many of my experiences mimic yours in terms of getting road worthy and starting the build out. I encourage you to start a build thread focusing on the fitment of your camper. Everyone goes through the wall and ceiling shuffle and makes insulation and covering choices. All are an improvement, none are bad, most are just standard for the materials used. What is interesting are your choices from this point to completion and I would document them for others with a build thread.
I feel like this forum is our best friend because the depth of knowledge and experience is so great. That said you need to follow the rules and buy a scanner(Autel 802 ll systems?) before you take off. Run a scan to establish a baseline, clear old codes and cross your fingers. These old sprinters are like medical patients and need a physical every year
I just did 3000 miles, did another scan...all is well systems wide.
As for tires I went the Walmart route for my own reasons and they tighten the wheel nuts to around 120 ft/lbs and aired uo everything to 55 psi. My rig bounced own the road so I backed tire pressures down between 40-45 psi and the ride came back and felt comfortable and safe. I keep my cruising speed between 55-65 mph.
I loosened all my lug nuts with a 6 foot pipe and breaker bar and re tightened them with the 2.5 foot pipe I carry for tire changes, then I drove a hundred miles and re-tightened all the wheels before my 3k trip, all worked well and I can change my own tires if necessary. I carry a hydraulic jack and a tow strap along with my breaker bar and pipe.
My rig didn't come with a jack so my hydraulic jack is a 3 ton but a smaller one would do the job and get into tight places. A couple of 2X6 pieces for blocking are nice to have as well.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hydrauli...MIlrvvysKv4gIVA57ACh1InQ_WEAQYAyABEgLmAvD_BwE
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Recovery_and_Tow_Straps-tw-20_Feet_Long.aspx
I used both on my trip in various adventures aka broken fuel tank straps and getting stuck off road.
The ASR is your friend, just apply very slight power and let it work, it's really amazing for traction control.
It's nothing like getting unstuck with all wheel or two wheel standard.
I hope this helps you and that you are having as much fun as I am.
This should be illegal.
Meet Tank, the re-purpose van. And motorcycle hauler.
Bus and trailer under construction.
BTW I am very jealous of your windows.
bill in tomahawk
Correct. The tire cage does have two position options. The "normal" position will fit 225 75r16 tires.
vic
Midwestdrifter got it right they're stock 16" rims and Michelin tires size 225/75R16.