New member: 2004 143k mile 158” high roof

Patrick of M

2005 T1N 2500 (NA spec)
It came up recently that the front pivot point for the spare holder can be lowered to allow a larger/wider wheel .
 
d6f47e7f-1e0d-4ba6-91f4-636ddb4f2dd8.jpg

Finished the walls and overhead cabinets. I’m pretty happy with how the window frames turned out.

I’m considering starting a new thread for the build but haven’t had the time yet


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Spent yesterday doing the trans fluid, rear diff fluid, replaced carrier bearing boot, and both cabin and engine air filters. I ordered 225 75 16r Michelin defender ltx ms($200 a tire mounted at discount) to be placed on my 16” by 5.5 take off wheels I found online. Mine was missing a spare so I went for 7.

I also put some gasket sealer on the gas tank spender unit yesterday. I didn’t clamp the fuel hoses... bad idea just for the amount of fuel that leaked out but I believe I may have got some air in the lines. She was running a little rough on the highway. Will the air work it’s way out or should I take care of that another way? Also, should I torque the wheel lugs to 138 ft lbs or go with the high spec for steel wheels on the newer 3500s which it appears is 170ft lbs?

Thanks for all the help. Taking the show on the road next month and plan to cover about 2500 miles. I have 200 mile towing, hope I won’t have to use it.




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Last edited:
B

billintomahawk

Guest
JB,
I'm a new old T1N owner like you and many of my experiences mimic yours in terms of getting road worthy and starting the build out. I encourage you to start a build thread focusing on the fitment of your camper. Everyone goes through the wall and ceiling shuffle and makes insulation and covering choices. All are an improvement, none are bad, most are just standard for the materials used. What is interesting are your choices from this point to completion and I would document them for others with a build thread.

I feel like this forum is our best friend because the depth of knowledge and experience is so great. That said you need to follow the rules and buy a scanner(Autel 802 ll systems?) before you take off. Run a scan to establish a baseline, clear old codes and cross your fingers. These old sprinters are like medical patients and need a physical every year

I just did 3000 miles, did another scan...all is well systems wide.

As for tires I went the Walmart route for my own reasons and they tighten the wheel nuts to around 120 ft/lbs and aired uo everything to 55 psi. My rig bounced own the road so I backed tire pressures down between 40-45 psi and the ride came back and felt comfortable and safe. I keep my cruising speed between 55-65 mph.

I loosened all my lug nuts with a 6 foot pipe and breaker bar and re tightened them with the 2.5 foot pipe I carry for tire changes, then I drove a hundred miles and re-tightened all the wheels before my 3k trip, all worked well and I can change my own tires if necessary. I carry a hydraulic jack and a tow strap along with my breaker bar and pipe.
My rig didn't come with a jack so my hydraulic jack is a 3 ton but a smaller one would do the job and get into tight places. A couple of 2X6 pieces for blocking are nice to have as well.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hydrauli...MIlrvvysKv4gIVA57ACh1InQ_WEAQYAyABEgLmAvD_BwE

https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Recovery_and_Tow_Straps-tw-20_Feet_Long.aspx

I used both on my trip in various adventures aka broken fuel tank straps and getting stuck off road.
The ASR is your friend, just apply very slight power and let it work, it's really amazing for traction control.
It's nothing like getting unstuck with all wheel or two wheel standard.

I hope this helps you and that you are having as much fun as I am.

This should be illegal.

Meet Tank, the re-purpose van. And motorcycle hauler.
Bus and trailer under construction.



BTW I am very jealous of your windows.



bill in tomahawk
 
Last edited by a moderator:

vanski

If it’s winter, I’m probably skiing..
nice build!

seeing as you're getting ready to head out into the great wide open and we're heading into summer... i'd make sure your cooling system is tip top.. cooling fan (viscous clutch and fan assembly) should be a priority.. followed by serp belt (contitech PK2260), belt tensioner (Litens), water pump, thermostat. if you look at the serp belt circuit and the belt tensioner and you see the tensioner moving back and forth at idle that's a pretty sure sign it needs to be replaced. of course the water pump is kind of a big job, so unless there are tell tail signs of improper glycol circulation, you're probably okay there. Thermostats can fail but not all too often and you can test it by putting it in hot water with a thermometer (meat or the like) and it should start to open up at 195F. Coolant flush is probably needed using a flushing agent followed by a refill with the proper coolant (Zerex G05 collant). If you do the coolant flush and use the non diluted coolant where you need to add water, make sure to use distilled water.

i just replaced a failed viscous fan clutch for someone that only had 50k miles on it!! there are a couple threads out there showing the vfc/fan assembly is the primary work horse in the cooling system (assuming everything else is at least operating somewhat adequately).

over heating is the number one killer of beloved T1N Sprinters.. and it only takes one event to warp and or crack a head. not to mention running to hot, but not having an event which goes into the 250 (red) range, can cause small localized warping issues that cause things like leaking injector seals (black death). People get all worked up regarding leaking injector seals, which they should, but in reality it's a potential (definitely not always the case) sign of over heating, so they fix the leaking injector, but don't dive deep into the root cause...

happy trails. you're going to have a great time!! :thumbup:
 
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nice build!

seeing as you're getting ready to head out into the great wide open and we're heading into summer... i'd make sure your cooling system is tip top.. cooling fan (viscous clutch and fan assembly) should be a priority.. followed by serp belt (contitech PK2260), belt tensioner (Litens), water pump, thermostat. if you look at the serp belt circuit and the belt tensioner and you see the tensioner moving back and forth at idle that's a pretty sure sign it needs to be replaced. of course the water pump is kind of a big job, so unless there are tell tail signs of improper glycol circulation, you're probably okay there. Thermostats can fail but not all too often and you can test it by putting it in hot water with a thermometer (meat or the like) and it should start to open up at 195F. Coolant flush is probably needed using a flushing agent followed by a refill with the proper coolant (Zerex G05 collant). If you do the coolant flush and use the non diluted coolant where you need to add water, make sure to use distilled water.

i just replaced a failed viscous fan clutch for someone that only had 50k miles on it!! there are a couple threads out there showing the vfc/fan assembly is the primary work horse in the cooling system (assuming everything else is at least operating somewhat adequately).

over heating is the number one killer of beloved T1N Sprinters.. and it only takes one event to warp and or crack a head. not to mention running to hot, but not having an event which goes into the 250 (red) range, can cause small localized warping issues that cause things like leaking injector seals (black death). People get all worked up regarding leaking injector seals, which they should, but in reality it's a potential (definitely not always the case) sign of over heating, so they fix the leaking injector, but don't dive deep into the root cause...

happy trails. you're going to have a great time!! :thumbup:


I’ll take a look at the areas you suggested and give attention to the cooling system.


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Last edited:
JB,
I'm a new old T1N owner like you and many of my experiences mimic yours in terms of getting road worthy and starting the build out. I encourage you to start a build thread focusing on the fitment of your camper. Everyone goes through the wall and ceiling shuffle and makes insulation and covering choices. All are an improvement, none are bad, most are just standard for the materials used. What is interesting are your choices from this point to completion and I would document them for others with a build thread.

I feel like this forum is our best friend because the depth of knowledge and experience is so great. That said you need to follow the rules and buy a scanner(Autel 802 ll systems?) before you take off. Run a scan to establish a baseline, clear old codes and cross your fingers. These old sprinters are like medical patients and need a physical every year

I just did 3000 miles, did another scan...all is well systems wide.

As for tires I went the Walmart route for my own reasons and they tighten the wheel nuts to around 120 ft/lbs and aired uo everything to 55 psi. My rig bounced own the road so I backed tire pressures down between 40-45 psi and the ride came back and felt comfortable and safe. I keep my cruising speed between 55-65 mph.

I loosened all my lug nuts with a 6 foot pipe and breaker bar and re tightened them with the 2.5 foot pipe I carry for tire changes, then I drove a hundred miles and re-tightened all the wheels before my 3k trip, all worked well and I can change my own tires if necessary. I carry a hydraulic jack and a tow strap along with my breaker bar and pipe.
My rig didn't come with a jack so my hydraulic jack is a 3 ton but a smaller one would do the job and get into tight places. A couple of 2X6 pieces for blocking are nice to have as well.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hydrauli...MIlrvvysKv4gIVA57ACh1InQ_WEAQYAyABEgLmAvD_BwE

https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Recovery_and_Tow_Straps-tw-20_Feet_Long.aspx

I used both on my trip in various adventures aka broken fuel tank straps and getting stuck off road.
The ASR is your friend, just apply very slight power and let it work, it's really amazing for traction control.
It's nothing like getting unstuck with all wheel or two wheel standard.

I hope this helps you and that you are having as much fun as I am.

This should be illegal.

Meet Tank, the re-purpose van. And motorcycle hauler.
Bus and trailer under construction.



BTW I am very jealous of your windows.



bill in tomahawk


Since you haul motorcycles do you have any feedback if I attached a carrier to the rear tow hitch. I see you are using a trailer. Do the t1n 3500 sprinters have any issue with a 350lbs bike hanging off the rear?


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B

billintomahawk

Guest
I don't like the idea of hitch hauling and haven't done it that way for many years with my other travel vehicles. The Sprinter is untested for trailer duty.

I see others hauling off the hitch. It just seems a wrong place to put weight to me.
For sure with the Sprinter you can't see the trailer in your mirrors so a back up camera will be a must.
All bad choices but necessary. I will build my bed platform so that my trekking bicycle fits underneath, it has 26 inch wheels.
There is so much washboard out west...I don't know what to say.
Stuff has to be solid.

I'll be starting a build thread soon and go over my trailer, camera etc.

The trailer is at the welder now getting fenders mounted. I'll probably add some flooring to haul bags, gear, extra gas and water for a full on assault and desert ratting.

bill
 
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Midwestdrifter got it right they're stock 16" rims and Michelin tires size 225/75R16.


I put 225/75r16s, they look great. I have the spare but the stock carrier is too small. Can I simply replace it with a 2500 model carrier? Wondering how other people dealt with this on 3500s.

IMG_7813.jpg7706F64C-16D3-4395-9AB2-167AFDC0E232.jpg


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220629

Well-known member
The OEM carrier has a two position fastener/bracket selection. If you don't identify it by inspection, do a search for the information. One of the members here discovered it. It wasn't me.

:cheers: vic
 
I had a fuel leak today that seems to started from a discounted return fuel line.

IMG_7852.jpg

The hose popped off, my question is what clamp if any goes here. I replaced this line and don’t remember there being a clamp there before and nothing came with the replacement.


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doug022984

Sporadic Member Since 2015
there's no clamp on that line. It should have negligible pressure since its a drain line. Did it pop off because the hose split? I do remember it being a tight fit over the metal nipple.
 
The amount that came out of the line was amazing. I would guess 5-10 gallons by the time I noticed it and got pulled over


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Called europarts-sd and they switched manufacturing company’s on the return fuel line from a Turkish company to a German company about two months ago. New return line is being sent under warranty. Hoping this fixes the problem.


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