Remote Key Reception Modification - Interface aftermarket controls

Re: Remote Key Reception Modification

Glad to hear it! Out of curiosity, what is this remote system with blade-type fobs you speak of?

Re: Remote Key Reception Modification

https://smile.amazon.com/KKmoon-Keyless-System-Central-Locking/dp/B01LYZCNGX


Also ordered

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/172888978312

WHEW! Just finished this mod and finally works! It’s a miracle, that I didn’t blow anything up. My van doesn’t seems to do the lights flashing confirm sequences but I’m stoked to have it simply lock and unlock. If anyone knows how to get the lights on board also that would be great.

Gabe Athouse said:

WHEW! Just finished this mod and finally works! It’s a miracle, that I didn’t blow anything up. My van doesn’t seems to do the lights flashing confirm sequences but I’m stoked to have it simply lock and unlock. If anyone knows how to get the lights on board also that would be great.

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You won't be able to get the lights flashing unless you connect the aftermarket system to the lighting circuits. You are by-passing the Skeem, and the body control module, so when you unlock, you're not sending a signal.

I suppose you can trace the wires (I did this back in the day when I installed a similar system on a GMC pickup), but in reality, I just live without the confirmation lights.

I've always wanted a keypad entry system, but instead have used a masterlock box hanging from the spare tire holder. It's pretty annoying to use when going on an off the water, and is now rusty and hard to open.

Last night I installed an Accele RS505, a wireless keypad entry system, connected to the relay per skydiver's instructions. It works!

Pros:
- No drilling or wiring anything to the outside of the van!
- Locks and unlocks all the doors with a single entry of the combo (which is great, I was worried I'd have to enter the code twice to get the rear doors to unlock).
- The range is much better than the stock key, so I'll probably order some standard FOBs to add to my keys.
- stock key still works
- added a short LED strip to the parking light output, stuck it to the side of the drivers seat pedestal, helpful when troubleshooting the lock/unlock issue below. Can't see it from outside but the actuators are so loud it's pretty obvious when it locks/unlocks.
- set my own combo easily


Cons:
- manual isn't great. When I first tested it wired per the manual, I think unlock & lock were swapped. Manual says to press "1-2" after entering combo to unlock ("3-4" to lock). This locked the doors, and vice versa. I decided to trust the forum post and swapped the lock/unlock wires on the relay. It wouldn't matter with just the keypad but if I get key fobs it will bug me if the buttons are wrong, and I won't know until then.
- if you enter the wrong combo, you have to wait longer than seems necessary before it will accept the correct combo

kite said:

...
- if you enter the wrong combo, you have to wait longer than seems necessary before it will accept the correct combo

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On some other units I've used pressing # or * will often clear a previous input to shorten the retry delay. There may be something in the manual about it, but you said that the manual ain't the greatest.

vic

Does anyone think that someone you could get this to work with our vans?


There are videos on youtube on how to install it, but it might not work with our vehicles as is... I don't know. Following instructions to get this all to work I think is at the very limits of my current skill level. I think it's beyond me at the moment to puzzle out how to do it if it's even possible.

skydiver007 said:

I am currently working on integrating the remote starter feature which I havent connected yet. The challenge there will be the wait to start as I cannot find a wire in the schematic that will give me ground when the glow plugs go off. But I think I can use the glow plug light wire and install a transistor to provide a gound when the light goes off.

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This product has an 8 second delay start for the glow plugs as well as everything else it comes with. If someone can figure out how to get this product installed in our T1Ns I'm sure a lot of people would be very happy.

SprinterLex said:

This product has an 8 second delay start for the glow plugs as well as everything else it comes with. If someone can figure out how to get this product installed in our T1Ns I'm sure a lot of people would be very happy.

54.82US $ 8% OFF|Cardot 2022 BT Digital Key Smart Phone App Car Alarm System Auto Security Keyless Entry Ignition Start Stop Engine|Burglar Alarm| - AliExpress

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To start engine you need to go around SKREEM otherwise it will be START ERROR message on your dash.
Install key chip permanently will eliminate any security.
I have better idea for guys familiar with coding and micro controllers. WI-FI or BT Arduino module programmed to receive message from smartphone and emulate key chip code. If gear selector lever moved out of neutral position vehicle immobilized, doors are locked, under driver seat punisher dildo explosive charge is activated. Smartphone receive message about intrusion.

Sprinter Snail said:

To start engine you need to go around SKREEM otherwise it will be START ERROR message on your dash.
Install key chip permanently will eliminate any security.
I have better idea for guys familiar with coding and micro controllers. WI-FI or BT Arduino module programmed to receive message from smartphone and emulate key chip code. If gear selector lever moved out of neutral position vehicle immobilized, doors are locked, under driver seat punisher dildo explosive charge is activated. Smartphone receive message about intrusion.

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Are you saying if I put a chip from one of my keys under the dash somewhere then in theory the Cardot 2022 should work with our T1Ns?

SprinterLex said:

Are you saying if I put a chip from one of my keys under the dash somewhere then in theory the Cardot 2022 should work with our T1Ns?

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In the T1N Sprinter the chip has to be VERY close to the antenna that's located in the bezel ring.
Some people move the antenna to be able to put the chip in an out-of-the-way location.

--dick

autostaretx said:

In the T1N Sprinter the chip has to be VERY close to the antenna that's located in the bezel ring.
Some people move the antenna to be able to put the chip in an out-of-the-way location.

--dick

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aaaa thanks dick. So if I put the chip right beside the antenna does something think the Cardot 2022 would work?

SprinterLex said:

aaaa thanks dick. So if I put the chip right beside the antenna does something think the Cardot 2022 would work?

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I have no clue .... their website says "gasoline only" in some places, and "diesel" elsewhere.
It's rather confusing (and hints of LOTS of fiddly bits needing to be added (unspecified relays, etc)
They suggest (demand?) that you contact them with YOUR vehicle info.

Would i want my RFID system bypassed so that a screwdriver is all the key that a thief needs? No, thanks.

--dick (who had a 25' rental truck stolen one night (the police recovered it a few hours later)... by a thief with a slide hammer and a regular hammer)
The slide hammer open the door, the regular hammer destroyed the steering lock ... the junkyard (tow) owner showed me how to drive it without needing a key or any fiddly bits of wiring. When we got it back to Hertz their entire mechanic staff came out to see how that was accomplished. We had gotten the truck back... they fully refunded our damage deposit.

Back in the T1N days, thieves in the UK could steal a T1N Sprinter in under two minutes ... they'd bring along a replacement ECU and SKREEM.

autostaretx said:

I have no clue .... their website says "gasoline only" in some places, and "diesel" elsewhere.
It's rather confusing (and hints of LOTS of fiddly bits needing to be added (unspecified relays, etc)
They suggest (demand?) that you contact them with YOUR vehicle info.

Would i want my RFID system bypassed so that a screwdriver is all the key that a thief needs? No, thanks.

--dick (who had a 25' rental truck stolen one night (the police recovered it a few hours later)... by a thief with a slide hammer and a regular hammer)
The slide hammer open the door, the regular hammer destroyed the steering lock ... the junkyard (tow) owner showed me how to drive it without needing a key or any fiddly bits of wiring. When we got it back to Hertz their entire mechanic staff came out to see how that was accomplished. We had gotten the truck back... they fully refunded our damage deposit.

Back in the T1N days, thieves in the UK could steal a T1N Sprinter in under two minutes ... they'd bring along a replacement ECU and SKREEM.

Click to expand...

Sorry to hear about your troubles. I wish you good fortune in the future.

I was already thinking about theifs myself. When I was younger... Well I'm still young, anyways; When I was younger I worked at a car wash and this one customer had a vehicle that could only be started by holding up the window bottom on the driver-side door. It got me thinking that could just figure out some interesting hidden wire thing that would make my vehicle very unique to start. The goal would be to make my vehicle so hard to figure out how to start by a thief that they would just give up and walk away. There use to starting a stock van not a hidden start button thing that they have no clue about.

It's kind of like tape on the nuts of a peddle bike tire. It just makes it too annoying compared to the bike beside it. Anything can be stolen, the goal is to make it too annoying to steal to be worth the theifs time/trouble.

Milton Demaray said:

Re: Remote Key Reception Modification

My RKE stopped working. SOS Diagnostics suggested a CTM replacement ($95), which made no difference. Rather that chase a fix for the factory RKE, which was always marginal, I added a BIGHAWKS Keyless Entry System $19.99 (Also known under Flexzion -https://www.amazon.com/Flexzion-Uni...8&sr=8-6&keywords=remote+keyless+entry+system

I was able to retain all of the door lock functions from the coach. I had to gang the driver-door with passenger-door lock and unlock functions. I wasn't able/willing to make the light-flash indications work.

To maintain the coach lock/unlock and indicators, I had to use four relays. Also, I had to move the jumper on the BIGHAWKS unit from .4 seconds, to 4.5 seconds.

Now the lock and unlock functions are reliable and immediate. I haven't tested max distance, but it is clearly MUCH better than the factory fobs.

Here's the schematic, including connector pinouts: https://1drv.ms/f/s!AoMw7WoFRrVMgdUfq_3P0xcI3-JQCQ

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Hey Milton, I know it’s been a wee bit since you posted it, but any chance you still have that schematic handy? I’ve got a 2006 T1N and soldered up two wires to the spots where Skydiver Bond gloriously identified they should go and was hoping to hook up this RF relay switch to control the OEM lock/unlock relays (and then technically I plan to use this fella in the middle to remotely monitor/control all of it via HomeAssistant). Only thing is I’m a bit of a novice here and am totally unfamiliar with how using a ground instead of a 12v line to trigger the lock/unlock is supposed to work. I briefly tried connecting one of those junction points to ground, but had no luck.. Figured I got lucky I didn’t immediately fry the board and it’d probably be wise to turn to the experts for help!

Either way, wanted to give a big ol thanks to this whole forum. In just under a year of van ownership, the refreshingly insightful and kind folks in here have saved me no less than 3 surely spendy fishing trips to the local diesel shops for a variety of issues - all of which I’ve been able to tackle and learn from thanks to this place and you folks. Can’t express my gratitude enough!

BubzI said:

Hey Milton, I know it’s been a wee bit since you posted it, but any chance you still have that schematic handy? I’ve got a 2006 T1N and soldered up two wires to the spots where Skydiver Bond gloriously identified they should go and was hoping to hook up this RF relay switch to control the OEM lock/unlock relays (and then technically I plan to use this fella in the middle to remotely monitor/control all of it via HomeAssistant). Only thing is I’m a bit of a novice here and am totally unfamiliar with how using a ground instead of a 12v line to trigger the lock/unlock is supposed to work. I briefly tried connecting one of those junction points to ground, but had no luck.. Figured I got lucky I didn’t immediately fry the board and it’d probably be wise to turn to the experts for help!

Either way, wanted to give a big ol thanks to this whole forum. In just under a year of van ownership, the refreshingly insightful and kind folks in here have saved me no less than 3 surely spendy fishing trips to the local diesel shops for a variety of issues - all of which I’ve been able to tackle and learn from thanks to this place and you folks. Can’t express my gratitude enough!

Click to expand...

Scratch that, finally figured it out with the help of some relays. Thanks again for the info Skydiver007!

Thank you so much SkyDiver007!!! This worked great and I don't know that I would ever have figured it out on my own.

I just installed a Viper 5706 alarm system on my van using your method. I did not install the remote start (pointless for a diesel) and the only interface with the van was the lock/unlock soldering and a 12v supply. The colors and the negatively triggered lock wires were the same as the system you used. This system does have a 1 mile range two way remote which is awesome and can check the temperature of the van up to a mile away. It also turns on an alarm at the remote if the alarm on the van is going off. I should point out too that my main goal for this install was to have an alarm on my van.

The only issue I noticed, which is due to the way this van locks it doors and deals with an unlocked doors, is if the lock button on the remote is pressed and a door is ajar. The remote and alarm system will indicate the van is locked and arm the alarm, however the van unlocks its doors. This is usually managed by clicking the lock button again on the factory remote, however with the Viper alarm with the two way remote it will not "resend" the lock negative signal to the CTM as it believed the van is already locked. Due to this I cannot guarantee all doors to the van are locked. That being said the alarm is still armed and will activate if anyone were to open a door (based on the shock sensors sensitivity).

If I find a better way to deal with this I will post back. It is kind of a pain to check every door when I lock the van.

I would think that you could rig up a "double pulse" on the lock signal to "guarantee" that the locks end up locked, even if a door is testing "ajar".

(i don't have such a double-pulse method in mind (yet), but it would be a work-around)

The Sprinter won't mind if you always tell it to lock twice, it'll just blink its lights again.

--dick

This was a great mod on my first build many many moons ago.. one weird thing that happened though.. I was working on the house batt bank and had a little ‘lesson learned’ where I dropped a wrench and had massive short!!! Wap! Spark! Finished up what I was doing, went to lock the van, and ALL of my door lock motors didn’t work. Somehow they all got fried from the event. I have no idea how the short caused this. Anyhow, after the expense and time to fix, I didn’t trust the mod any longer… many moons and three builds ago..

Alex, thanks for sharing your experience installing an aftermarket alarm. I self-installed a Viper 5806V (same system with a slightly lower-tech non-lcd remote) about 6 years ago. I also used SkyDiver007's CTM hack to control the door locks, and tied into the dome light triggers (there are two - one for the front doors, and one for the slider & rear doors) to trigger the alarm. I also tapped into the ignition to hook up the remote start. Like you said, it doesn't do much for pre-warming the van, although the Viper system also has 5 auxilliary outputs, so you could use one of these to start the Espar booster heater if you have it, or Espar D5 or some other heater you have installed. You can also use the remote start to pre-cool the van in the summer if you left it with the A/C on. Occasionally I find it useful to remote start while standing in front of the open hood to quickly turn the engine on or off (like when using the 'pop' method of fuel injector removal). Most importantly, connecting the Viper to the ignition means that the alarm will immobilize the ignition if the alarm is triggered. This makes the van harder to steal, although most thieves are more interested in breaking in and taking valuables than driving off with the van.

I also tried to tap into the turn signals (to get visual confirmation of lock and unlock) using some relays and a wiring diagram I found online, but that has never worked. Were you able to get that part of the install working?

I've also had much frustration with the CTM lock-unlock routine when it thinks a door is ajar. It seems like every two years or so, something breaks down between the lock actuators on the doors, the contacts on the door sills, or the wiring in between, and I'm unable to convince the CTM that all doors are closed even if they are. Curiously, one time the indicator lights on the center console lock button would indicate the doors were all closed, but after locking, they indicated a door open. That was fun. Thus I have on multiple occasions had to lock & arm the Viper, then manually insert a key into the slider door to lock-unlock-lock to override the CTM. Dick's suggestion of a double lock pulse would work, but that would take some involved digital circuit design. Maybe someday I'll sit down and learn how to program an Arduino or similar device.