Westfalia PDI (Pre-Delivery Inspection)

Zach Woods

New member
The following is archival:

*****
Re: Things to check before taking delivery?


I. PDI Checklists

Check RV.net for various pre-delivery inspection checklists (use the
search function). There are lots of different ones. Key is to make
sure you try every single thing. Ideally, camp-out for a couple of
nights to make sure everything works (especially the problematic
auxillary coach heater).

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/264829.cfm

http://www.rv.net/forums/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/CFB/1/TID/206033.
cfm

II. Sprinter Van

Known things to check for (besides usual vehicle inspection) include
(see Yahoo Sprintervan group for more info):
(a) transmission shudder/rumble strip noise;
(b) vibrating floorboards (really the vibrating fuel lines);
(c) EGR Valve changed out for 2004 (Nov. 2004 recall);
(d) Tire valves changed out (March 2005 recall);
(e) Difficult to operate sliding door; and
(f) Vibrating side mirrors (no cure?).

Also, tires are usually inflated wrong (79/80 psi in rear; 55 psi in
front).

III. Westfalia Conversion

(a) Couple of minor modifications made in last year or so, including
alloy wheels option, grab bar on upper kitchen cupboard, metal plate
surrounding stove top air vent, no more heated seats, no black-out
tape/vinyl between exterior windows, painted black generator exhaust
pipe, etc. Search this group's messages to get an idea of what's
happening with Westfalia and known issues/nits.
(b) Also check this group's messages for the various things which
might be forgotten (e.g., manuals, umbrella, tv remote control,
skylight remote control, fridge wire baskets and plastic containers,
awning wand, propane tank extend-a-kit, front curtain with snaps,
compass, sink strainers, plug-in electrical cord, etc.)
(c) Westfalia also made some design corrections in Spring 2004, as
seen in message below. Might want to double-check that these were
done.
(d) Westfalia also removed and replaced part of the auxillary coach
heater to make it work at high altitudes.

IV. EXTRA ADD-ONs

Besides full tank of diesel, you should get from dealer as part of
the deal some free cheapie starter kit, including sewer hose
extension, sewer hole adapters, black tank chemicals, toilet paper,
water hoses, extension cord adapter, etc. Best to get this stuff
tossed in as dealer can get cheap.

Also consider whether dealer will install for a good price:
(a) rear view camera system;
(b) add-on OEM parabolic mirrors on top of regular mirrors;
(c) suspension upgrades (Koni shocks, auxillary springs, heavier anti-
sway bar, etc.--see Upscaleauto.com); and
(d) other?

---------------------------------------

[Following is from the RV.net board--May 26, 2005:
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/15615319.cfm]


In the last couple months or so, Airstream Dodge Sprinter Westfalia
(the American version of the European Mercedes James Cook Sprinter)
has made a couple of tech. fixes to the Westfalias (if you know of
any others, please post as good reference info or if info below is
wrong, please correct). Not all changes were needed for all vehicles.
Airstream (American) and Westfalia (German) techs flew around the
country to make the fixes.

These changes are welcomed and indicative of Airstream/Westfalia
listening to the owners.

1. Coach A/C. Complaints about inadequate A/C and interior water
leaks. Larger unit installed; still made by Kerstner and still runs
on 12 volts (off alternator while driving; off generator or shore
power after converter converts 120v to 12 volts).

Replacement circuit breaker (15 amps versus previous 13 amps)
installed for A/C (new sticker installed showing higher amperage
breaker). Heavier gauge wire from new circuit breaker to converter
installed. Converter reset to increase voltage output to around 13.5
volts or so. (Converter is in same compartment as hot water heater.)
Water leaks are from the condensate which go out two outlets in the
A/C (one near each halogen light) through white tubing to a single
tubing which runs down behind kitchen cabinet. If the tubing becomes
dislodged (now hose-clamped), the condensate will leak into the
interior of the van.

Access to the A/C is mostly from the top, but leaks require the
yellow wood cover panel to be removed (the panel which has the A/C
control and air vents, the two halogen lights, the blackwater tank
indicator, the drop-down storage unit).

Don't know exact output, but around 13,500 or so? New A/C is higher
and heavier than prior unit; white cover does not have the blue side
inserts of previous unit.

Same A/C control switch retained.

Photographs can be seen at sprinterstop.com, in the photographs
section.

2. Skylight Retrofit. Complaints about self-opening skylight (perhaps
from CB and other radio frequency traffic) and red indicator light
not going out (light goes out to show skylight is closed).
Replacement circuit board installed and replacement distribution
fuse/box installed. Replacement brown brackets on skylight installed
(replacement brackets have small insert so skylight is pulled closed
tighter). Replacement remote control is more of a trapezoid shape
versus rectangular shape of prior remote control. Replacement remote
control requires you to hold down close button continuously for
skylight to close.

Hint: If the skylight ever refuses to close, there is a manual (and
laborious) method in which to close the skylight--check Owner's
Manual for details. Basic idea is to take off interior trim pieces
around frame, locate small T-handle in frame, and use T-handle as a
crank. Could probably use a portable drill with right socket to do
the same thing.

3. Bathroom Sink. Complaints about sliding door falling out of tracks
and bottom shelf of sink vanity bowing down. Replacement single piece
rail bracket installed in place of the two tiny L-shaped brackets.
Replacement bracket supports bottom of sink vanity so sliding door
doesn't fall out of tracks.

4. Sliding Door Lock Knob. Complaints about difficulty pulling knob
up to lock/unlock and scraping vehicle when door is opened.
Replacement knob (looks the same as original) and interior wire (like
coat hanger wire) installed (interior wire has slightly different
bends/shape; replacement knob is glued to this wire).

5. Upper Blinds/Screens. Complaints about upper blinds/screens not
staying together. New brown magnetic strips glued to top/bottom rails
so blinds/screens can be magnetically sealed together.

6. Bathroom Door. Complaints about squeeks. Small pieces of cardboard
backing placed behind hinges.

Hint: The protruding metal plate for the middle door latch is a
nuisance (scratches/catches on clothes/skin) and on some Westfalias,
does not touch middle latch--so just unscrew and flip it around so it
doesn't protrude. Downside is that middle latch won't be doing
anything (but the other two latches will still be holding).

7. Kitchen Upper Cabinet. Complaints about door scratches. Felt trim
added to bottom outside surface of sliding door (below handle) to
prevent scratches.

8. Bathroom Skylight Dome. Replaced if manufactured before a certain
date (2003 or so). Manufacturing date is in a small circle imprinted
on dome.

Handle for bathroom skylight may be slightly assymetrically bent so
dome is not closed as tightly as possible when closed. No fix known.

9. Plastic Awning Window (Driver's Side). Complaints about leaks.
Replacement nuts and bolts used to fasten three latch receivers to
frame in new holes (prior latch receivers were held on by screws).
New holes allow latch receivers with slots to be moved inwards for
tighter closing window (and nuts and bolts allow for more secure
position).

In some cases, entire window may have been replaced if water leaked
from under frame (versus between window and rubberstripping).

Replacement window screen as needed if water leaks discolored window
screen.

10. Upper Tilt-out Windows. Complaint(s) about leaks. Adjust latch
receivers so windows are pulled tighter against weatherstripping when
closed. The latch receivers have slots where screws are, so receivers
can be moved slightly in/out.

11. Bed Pull-Out Safety Mesh Net Unit. Riveted or screwed on more
securely.

12. Sliding Upper Bed Panel. Complaints about sliding upper bed panel
piece scratching gray plastic trim below slide cut-outs. Four larger
replacement white rollers installed to provide greater clearance of
sliding bed panel from gray plastic trim.

13. Upper Bed Springs. Additional screws to hold upper bed springs in
place.

14. Fresh Water Tank Sensor. New fresh water tank sensor installed
(more accurate?). New warning stickers installed re turning off water
pump when not in use and not using water pump when no fresh water.

Hint: If water flow seems to be less than normal, check for leaks.
The water heater has two hoses with clamps (in and out) which can
become dislodged and leak water. This is the lower compartment below
the closet (accessible from the rear of vehicle, behind the rear
doors).

15. Vehicle Battery. Battery cable checked to make sure black plastic
fuse cover (front side of battery) can slide up to reveal fuses.

16. Outside Black Louver-type Panels. Perimeter of panels trimmed
down to provide more clearance space between edge of panels and steel
body. These black panels are glued on.

17. Cupholders beneath Plastic Awning Window. Replacement cupholders
installed as needed.

Airstream Technician's tip: shave the two middle prongs to a bevel if
they catch on back of cupholder circle.

18. Towel holders. Replaced as necessary.

19. Bathroom Caulking. Re-caulked as necessary.
 

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