Looking for an opinion on used sprinter options

Hi! I'm in the market for a used sprinter to camperize for full time living.

Question - I currently have a choice between the two options in my price range - an older mileage 2006 or a newer 2010/2011.

Any thoughts on which would be a wiser choice? I've looked at the following:

1. 2006 2500, 159,000 miles, $10,000 (pretty much one owner)
2. 2010, 50,000 miles, $18,000 (dealer purchase)

No maintenance history for either, but the one owner option was garage stored and well kept.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!! :)
 

aldsmith3

New member
I currently own a 2006 and I've looked at newer models in my process of first buying. Definitely bipartial to 2006s! They don't have all the electronic gadgetry for emissions that the newer 2007+ models have. As much as 159,000 sounds like high mileage, that's relatively low for an 06. Mine has over 215K and I paid over a thousand more for mine in 2015 with 189K on it at that time.

Is the one that was garage kept the 2006?

Further, an online poll of Forum users has weighted heavily a preference for 2006s...if it's truly in good shape (body, motor, transmission) then, in my opinion, is a solid buy. Plus you save $8,000 for the build!

Cheers,
 
Thanks! If I dont decide on the 2006 I can send you the details Nice guy!
Yes the 2006 was garage stored, it has light rust but was oiled regularly to prevent. The seller bought at 5k and has used since. He doesnt have maintenance records available but seemed like he took good care of the vehicle and was open to an inspection and me calling the shop where work was done. He also seemed like an honest guy. In comparison the dealer 2010 has no maintenance records and the guy seemed shady
 
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aldsmith3

New member
Hmm, go with your gut.

With the 06, at least you know who has owned it, and can continue to pick his brain on specific questions (ex: has it had symptoms of the "black death"? Also, any issues with the transmission? i.e., does it shudder under heavy loads while going uphill - a test drive will help determine this. Also, any rust around the windshield - is it the original windshield?).

That newer Sprinter grabs me a little funny. You may want to run a VIN check on that first before proceeding. And a good idea with the 06 as well. Find out if that correlates with the guy's story.

Cheers,
 

sprint2freedom

2008 NCV3 170ext
As an NCV3 owner-- based on the prices and information you've provided, I'd recommend that you go with the '06 unless you have a compelling reason to get the newer chassis (I needed the extra 3.4 inches of headroom).

2010 is the year that the DEF system was introduced, and that brings with it a long list of additional potential headaches.

(Edit: there are two kinds of Sprinters.. pre-rusted and rusting soon. why pay a premium for a short delay in the inevitable?)
 
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kjg912

2006 T1N 2500
As an NCV3 owner-- based on the prices and information you've provided, I'd recommend that you go with the '06 unless you have a compelling reason to get the newer chassis (I needed the extra 3.4 inches of headroom).

2010 is the year that the DEF system was introduced, and that brings with it a long list of additional potential headaches.

(Edit: there are two kinds of Sprinters.. pre-rusted and rusting soon. why pay a premium for a short delay in the inevitable?)
I've heard from a mechanic at the dealership that he continues to have job security working on all the newer Sprinters - especially the ones with DEF systems! He says he does not see too many T1N's as it seems many owners can do most routine maintenance themselves thanks to this Forum! As to the RUST issue, it seems that NM and AZ Sprinters can avoid most of those headaches for decades! Be aware that good Sprinter mechanics are few and far between - Dennis in CO and Dr. A come to mind although many other Forum members are also very good and helpful with problems and fixes! Buying a few specialized tools such as a flywheel lock, transmission dip stick, fan clutch tool and torx bits is necessary as an owner. As all my driving is open road driving, I have a bull guard to protect the front end and to hook up a 10k Blue Ox tow bar if ever necessary to get to the nearest town. I had one also for my VW Westy, and fortunately have never used either but it gives some peace of mind and is "insurance" for the many great empty spaces in the Southwest!
 
Hey, Im buying remotely so I wont be able to test drive bit I would pay for an inspection. I asked the guy for pictures of the rust. You're right its around the window. Is this too much or par for the course?


QUOTE=aldsmith3;542473]Hmm, go with your gut.

With the 06, at least you know who has owned it, and can continue to pick his brain on specific questions (ex: has it had symptoms of the "black death"? Also, any issues with the transmission? i.e., does it shudder under heavy loads while going uphill - a test drive will help determine this. Also, any rust around the windshield - is it the original windshield?).

That newer Sprinter grabs me a little funny. You may want to run a VIN check on that first before proceeding. And a good idea with the 06 as well. Find out if that correlates with the guy's story.

Cheers,[/QUOTE]
 

Attachments

Thanks!
Unfortunately Im not very mechanically inclined so I would need to get most required work done by a mechanic. Is the 2006 still a good option? :p
Also I would mainly be travelling in the sw US. My current mechanic recommended I get a t1n because he said that more mechanics can work on them and because newer models need to go to a dealership. Is that true? Or am I still going to run into issues of mechanics not knowing what to do. I used to own a vw westfalia and I still remember the pain of being stranded 100,000km (a long tow!) From the closest mechanic who'd work on it!



OTE=kjg912;542512]I've heard from a mechanic at the dealership that he continues to have job security working on all the newer Sprinters - especially the ones with DEF systems! He says he does not see too many T1N's as it seems many owners can do most routine maintenance themselves thanks to this Forum! As to the RUST issue, it seems that NM and AZ Sprinters can avoid most of those headaches for decades! Be aware that good Sprinter mechanics are few and far between - Dennis in CO and Dr. A come to mind although many other Forum members are also very good and helpful with problems and fixes! Buying a few specialized tools such as a flywheel lock, transmission dip stick, fan clutch tool and torx bits is necessary as an owner. As all my driving is open road driving, I have a bull guard to protect the front end and to hook up a 10k Blue Ox tow bar if ever necessary to get to the nearest town. I had one also for my VW Westy, and fortunately have never used either but it gives some peace of mind and is "insurance" for the many great empty spaces in the Southwest![/QUOTE]
 

kjg912

2006 T1N 2500
I do believe that the T1N's are easier to work on and that more mechanics are capable of doing the work. The Sprinter Van has basically two types of owners - those who absolutely love them or those who hate them! I am on my second T1N and have put over 82k miles on them and I believe that they are exceptional! Very few vehicles fit that classification in my book and can be run for decades and up to a million miles with care and maintenance (and in a low rust environment!) As an aside, I lost a cotter pin on an '85 Westy near Red Mesa, UT and then lost the rear tire and rim as it rolled by me! I worked a deal with someone in the area with a trailer to get me and the VW home, replaced necessary parts and it is still going strong as a 32 year old camper! I hope and expect many a T1N will be around for many, many years to come! If you really need and expect a mechanic around every corner, then the Ford Transit may be a better - yet expensive alternative!
 
Thanks!! :) Yes after three years living and touring around the US and Canada in my VW I sold it to a sweet old couple who were going to drive it across the country. I can only hope (mainly to make myself feel better!) that it continued to work well for them :P

With regards to rust, I asked the seller to take pictures of the rust for me and I posted them above. Is that too much rust or is that normal? Its an east coast vehicles that experiences salt and winter and I want to play it safe!

I completely agree that the T1Ns seem like an awesome idea! Do you think that one with 150,000 miles is too much?

Unfortunately I just can't stomach spending $20k+ on a transit and then having to look at a Ford label all day while I drive...

I do believe that the T1N's are easier to work on and that more mechanics are capable of doing the work. The Sprinter Van has basically two types of owners - those who absolutely love them or those who hate them! I am on my second T1N and have put over 82k miles on them and I believe that they are exceptional! Very few vehicles fit that classification in my book and can be run for decades and up to a million miles with care and maintenance (and in a low rust environment!) As an aside, I lost a cotter pin on an '85 Westy near Red Mesa, UT and then lost the rear tire and rim as it rolled by me! I worked a deal with someone in the area with a trailer to get me and the VW home, replaced necessary parts and it is still going strong as a 32 year old camper! I hope and expect many a T1N will be around for many, many years to come! If you really need and expect a mechanic around every corner, then the Ford Transit may be a better - yet expensive alternative!
 

sprint2freedom

2008 NCV3 170ext
With regards to rust, I asked the seller to take pictures of the rust for me and I posted them above. Is that too much rust or is that normal? Its an east coast vehicles that experiences salt and winter and I want to play it safe!
I can't speak to what's normal on a T1N. I will say that it's not hard to find late model vehicles on the east coast only 2 or 3 years old that are already beginning to rust around the wheel arches, bottoms of the doors, or along the rocker panels. Road salt is hard on vehicles; if you're looking for a picture-perfect collector vehicle I would probably exclude all areas that salt their roads from your search.

In general, whenever you find rust there's always more than you can see. Hidden areas (behind glass or plastic trim) often retain more moisture which makes any rust behind them worse than the rust you can readily see. These are also likely to hide scratches due to window glass replacement or cracked paint from a minor fender bender where the rust can get a foothold.

In my experience, rust that is allowed to dry out fully (e.g. not behind paint) advances rather slowly, while trapped moisture is an accelerant.

Rust exists in several different stages:
Stage 1- superficial surface rust, can be sanded away easily
Stage 2- formation of light scale, bubbling begins beneath the paint surface
Stage 3- rust penetrates deeper and pinholes begin to form
Stage 4- crumbing, visible holes and structural compromise

It is most easily fixed in Stage 1. By stage 4, everything must be cut out and new metal welded in.

Repairing Stage 1 rust isn't too bad but it's easy to underestimate how much area you'll need to treat as you're likely to find more once you get started. The work is tedious and dirty.

All rust repairs will require painting to have a chance at success.. either touch-up, rattle can, or a full paint booth ($$).

I completely agree that the T1Ns seem like an awesome idea! Do you think that one with 150,000 miles is too much?
Not at all. Mileage is far from a perfect barometer of expected remaining lifetime. What matters is how well maintained and cared for the vehicle was during the miles it traveled, and whether it was abused or shoddily repaired over that time.

The amount of rust and vehicle mileage both factor into price. An '06 with less than 100k and no rust will in all probability cost more than one with 300k and some rust, but it doesn't mean the latter won't be a good vehicle.. there's just more demand for (and less supply of) the former.

(Edit: the rust in your photos looks to me like Stage 1 or 1.5)
 
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Thanks for all the feedback! I feel much more knowledgeable now about rust! Unfortunately that vehicle sold today. Darn! I guess I need to move faster!

I saw another one posted in the same area - similar price, less kms, with a new head gasket. Is that something to shy away from? Its a dealer sell so I'm not sure if I can trust the story I get about how it happened and if it was driven after...
 

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