Curt 13250 trailer hitch not fitting.... nope... spacers!!

I bought the Curt 13250 trailer hitch from etrailer but it does not fit as it is almost an inch to narrow to fit to the inside surfaces of the frame on my 2003 140wb passenger. It looks like I’ll have to fit spacers to make up the difference or return and try another brand. etrailer was of no help and I’ll check with Curt on Monday.

Anyone else install this hitch ?

Re: Curt 13250 trailer hitch not fitting....

I actually have that hitch arriving today. Perhaps they make it a tad narrow to account for manufacturing inconsistencies, but 1 inch seems a bit much. If you use spacers, is the included hardware long enough to accommodate? If I find the same is true for mine, I'll machine some spacers on my lathe.

Re: Curt 13250 trailer hitch not fitting....

The grade 8 bolts are readily available if I need longer ones... the hitch comes with a mounting plate for the opposite sides of the frame so I hope to get some more from Curt directly, otherwise I’ll make some as I have access to a CNC plasma cutter.

Measure the distance tween the inside surface of the frame at rear. Mine is 36 “, the hitch is 35 3/8” so more like 3/4 “ short.

Re: Curt 13250 trailer hitch not fitting....

Is this the receiver?

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/13250.html

Mine from etrailer fit perfectly on my '02 140.

I found the company helpful and they provided first class phone service and shipping.









bill in tomahawk

Re: Curt 13250 trailer hitch not fitting....

Bill,

Yes, that is it.....

For some reason either my frame width is wider than most or the hitch is narrower than usual.

Can you measure the width of your hitch for comparison ? Just the outside plates at cross tube.

I’m preparing to use some spacers if your hitch is the same width as mine.

I don’t think my 2003 140wb frame width would differ from your 2002. But, Something is screwy Louie.

Re: Curt 13250 trailer hitch not fitting....

Bill,

I see in your picture you did not use the extra mounting plates that are mounted on the outside of the frame thru bolts, did you not get them ?

John

Re: Curt 13250 trailer hitch not fitting....

Oh boy,,,,,

I just figured it out after looking at bills pictures and reading CLOSELY the installation guide for the hitch.....


I was putting the included SPACERS on the outside of the frame not on the inside to take up the extra space. Duh !! They are called spacers for a reason......

I could have sworn I watched a video of them going on the outside of frame......


Lesson learned.

John

Re: Curt 13250 trailer hitch not fitting....

The spacers are there to compensate for the lack (if applicable) of a factory fitted stepper arr'.

Yes this is a great company to deal with and I highly recommend them.
A nice product
The genuine MB alternative is twice the money at least.
All the best
Dennis

One thing that had been done to my vehicle by the PO, and I was glad for it, was the undercoating was cut away, removed from the contact points on the vehicle frame to provide just a little extra clearance. I was working alone to put that receiver on/up and it was not easy. It was a very tight fit. The PO removed the original receiver for use on another vehicle.

I need to slide under and do a 'Vic' on it. That is paint, drain oil and wheel bearing grease the undercoating removal site. It's a set up for rust.

There are better picture in my build thread attached to my signature but where?
Maybe around the middle.

BTW those spacers need 3 hands and gorilla arms. I weigh in at 130 lbs, 59 kg.
If you can get one bolt through it's all down hill. Or do one side w/o the spacer, move across, do it right and then go back.
Frikkin wrestling match.
Have fun!

bill

I got my 13250 installed today. Even with the spacers in place, there was still 1/4" gap on each side. I turned some 1/4" spacers to fill in the extra space. Worked like a charm and tightened right down. Although, making a copy of the spacer plate probably would've been easier (to make and install.)

I just used the long through bolts and didn't attempt to fasten the included carriage bolt inside the frame. It would've required me to cut an access hole into the "frame" rails. The bolts going through are rather substantial, so I feel confident that they will be more than sufficient.

ions82 said:

I got my 13250 installed today. Even with the spacers in place, there was still 1/4" gap on each side. I turned some 1/4" spacers to fill in the extra space. Worked like a charm and tightened right down. Although, making a copy of the spacer plate probably would've been easier (to make and install.)

I just used the long through bolts and didn't attempt to fasten the included carriage bolt inside the frame. It would've required me to cut an access hole into the "frame" rails. The bolts going through are rather substantial, so I feel confident that they will be more than sufficient.

Click to expand...

Oh boy, you missed the fun.

Belt and suspenders.

b

billintomahawk said:

Oh boy, you missed the fun.

Belt and suspenders.

b

Click to expand...

I'd wager that the rear half of the van would detach before those hitch bolts sheer. The extra little carriage bolt held to one thin section of unibody almost seems silly. So, I didn't bother with it. These vans ain't no tow pigs. I've got the Cummins if I need a four-wheeled tugboat. I have two small enclosed trailers, and I will probably utilize them with the Sprinter from time to time.

ions82 said:

I'd wager that the rear half of the van would detach before those hitch bolts sheer. The extra little carriage bolt held to one thin section of unibody almost seems silly. So, I didn't bother with it. These vans ain't no tow pigs. I've got the Cummins if I need a four-wheeled tugboat. I have two small enclosed trailers, and I will probably utilize them with the Sprinter from time to time.

Click to expand...

First.
Of course all of the included fasteners provided by Curt should be installed.

After looking at the position of those bolts I agree that they likely provide little extra benefit for Class II towing. I believe that Curt claims Class III rating. Those bolts might be necessary for a Class III load, but the NAS aka NAFTA 2500 Sprinter isn't rated for over 5000# dead weight anyway.

CURT 13265 Class 3 Trailer Hitch (T1N 2500 Sprinter)
"DEPENDABLE STRENGTH. This trailer hitch is rated for 6, 000 lbs. gross trailer weight, 600 lbs. tongue weight, 10, 000 lbs. weight distribution capacity and 1, 000 lbs. weight distribution tongue weight (limited to lowest-rated towing component)."
Use with a weight distribution setup would change the stresses. For WD I would install the bolts. BUT... MB never mentions or recommends the use of any weight distribution type towing that I have found.

Any "normal" aka dead tongue weight will attempt to pivot those 90 degree angle pads to press up against the frame, not pull away from it.

The Draw-Tite 75210 design Sprinter hitch doesn't have a similar 90 degree pad. They do use 4 thru bolts on the frame though.

Added:
A compromise might be to install a heavy self drilling screw and washer in the back section of the tab hole. A self drilling screw provides good shear strength.

vic

ions82 said:

I got my 13250 installed today. Even with the spacers in place, there was still 1/4" gap on each side. I turned some 1/4" spacers to fill in the extra space. Worked like a charm and tightened right down. Although, making a copy of the spacer plate probably would've been easier (to make and install.)

I just used the long through bolts and didn't attempt to fasten the included carriage bolt inside the frame. It would've required me to cut an access hole into the "frame" rails. The bolts going through are rather substantial, so I feel confident that they will be more than sufficient.

Click to expand...

Ions82: Did you remove the FedEx leaf spring mounted step/bumper to install your hitch? Did you give up on the idea of keeping it installed with the hitch?

99sport said:

Ions82: Did you remove the FedEx leaf spring mounted step/bumper to install your hitch? Did you give up on the idea of keeping it installed with the hitch?

Click to expand...

I figured it wouldn't be worth the hassle of trying to figure out how to frame-mount a hitch that extends past the big step bumper. My bumper mounted right into the hitch holes, and it has in-built springs for bumping up against loading docks. That said, welding a receiver on it wouldn't have been wise. Plus, any sort of adaptation would've left the receiver sticking way out from mounting points, so there would be a lot of "leverage" on it.

I ditched the big bumper and got a step that mounts into the receiver. Eventually, I'd like to fab up a bigger hitch step that has grip tape on it. The one I got is rather narrow and has a plastic cover. Seems like it's just a matter of time before I slip off of it.