Easier 12v source

RVRX

New member
I sure don't care for how they hide the battery underneath the driver's floor mat. Any suggestions on running a good positive and negative elsewhere under the hood so I can wire up some LED warning lights? Almost need kind of a 12-volt junction box or splitter?
 

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
I sure don't care for how they hide the battery underneath the driver's floor mat. Any suggestions on running a good positive and negative elsewhere under the hood so I can wire up some LED warning lights? Almost need kind of a 12-volt junction box or splitter?
Well, if you don't like where they put the battery, you certainly won't like where most folks should and do this sort of wiring....


....inside the driver seat base. :lol:
 

Gabe Athouse

New member
Well, if you don't like where they put the battery, you certainly won't like where most folks should and do this sort of wiring....


....inside the driver seat base. :lol:
Yet another useless post, gee, so glad you contribute here.

OP, did your van get the jump start terminal that attaches to the airbox? That could be used potentially. And a ground is a ground, so that’s easy.
If you look under the van where the battery box is you’ll see a big positive lug there, you can ring off that as well. Use a big fuse as close to that as possible of course.
 

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
Yet another useless post, gee, so glad you contribute here.

OP, did your van get the jump start terminal that attaches to the airbox? That could be used potentially. And a ground is a ground, so that’s easy.
If you look under the van where the battery box is you’ll see a big positive lug there, you can ring off that as well. Use a big fuse as close to that as possible of course.
0708719d6fe2fb9063e66f3b24f5087c.jpg
 

Gabe Athouse

New member
Don’t you have any other lame 20 yr old attempts at humor or is that the main go-to? Maybe mix in a few “your mom” type burns or a “that’s what she said” to keep us amused. If you need me to explain those I’d be happy to.
 

Kajtek1

2015 3500 X long limo RV
I am with Orion in tapping into existing fuse box for any addition.
When jumping terminal could be used as power source, any attached wire should have fuse on it.
Leaving fuse hanging in engine bay can open new can of worms, when in case the fuse burns after some time, finding/remembering it might become whole new issue.
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Pretty much all US-delivered Sprinters have the "Ek1" option ... three pre-fused terminal posts under the driver's seat.
They're the designated source for 3rd party (i.e. you) connection to the battery (for light loads).

What it looks like (with the cover flipped open):



Where to find it (item (4) in the photo):



In another thread (yesterday? 2 days ago?) there was the suggestion to bolt a new, similar, terminal strip under the hood for added stuff. Then you'd only have the headache of running one wire to a power source to provide multiple taps where you want them.

--dick
 
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RVRX

New member
Freaking awesome, man! Thank you! Hoping to get the van back from the beating it withstood during transport soon and get it ready to roll. I appreciate your help
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
If/when you have your VIN, you can enter it at https://www.datamb.com/
and fetch a free copy of your "data sheet" ... the list of options MB put into *your* Sprinter at the factory.

Very handy for chasing some things down (like: "what's my alternator's output?")

--dick
 

Sinatorj

Active member
So is this pretty much considered the best option for connecting a house battery load to the starting battery? trying to figure the best way to complete circuit with my battery isolator.
 

RVRX

New member
A house battery, deep cycle, and a cranking battery should not be connected. I originally asked the question for the sakes of finding a good place to wire warning flashers/stereo as this is my work truck
 

Kajtek1

2015 3500 X long limo RV
Starting battery and house battery should be connected with some kind of relay, when battery combiner is the best IMHO as it works both ways, so when you have house convertor - it will keep starting battery at full charge.
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
So is this pretty much considered the best option for connecting a house battery load to the starting battery? trying to figure the best way to complete circuit with my battery isolator.
Best is to follow your installation manual recommendation. The reason for battery isolator is to connect both batteries via isolator, plus to plus, negative to negative. Connecting a load to starting battery? See Kajtek post.
 

Sinatorj

Active member
Starting battery and house battery should be connected with some kind of relay, when battery combiner is the best IMHO as it works both ways, so when you have house convertor - it will keep starting battery at full charge.
What I was getting at, just trying to figure cleanest way to run wiring out of the footwell where the starting battery lies. Thanks
 

Kajtek1

2015 3500 X long limo RV
What I was getting at, just trying to figure cleanest way to run wiring out of the footwell where the starting battery lies. Thanks
I'll be working on this maybe even before Christmas.
My plan is to put 1 house battery under the hood and 2 more in the rear, under new bed.
Planning to use 1500W inverter, I will have to run at least #4 cable from 1 of those batteries, but PO already run heavy cable under the floor for the wheelchair lift he had in the rear.
When charging cable doesn't have to be big and I probably will install combiner under driver seat- all the cables going to inverter need to be really heavy.
 

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