Jack stands. Capacity and location?

In preparation for having to replace a tire where there is no cell service for roadside assistance, I want to bring some back up jackstands. The Navion already has a bottle jack to raise the front or rear but I also want to use a back up jackstand not another bottle jack.
bottle jack..

Rig weighs 11,000lbs. Would a 4 ton be sufficient for both front and rear?

If bottle jack is using up the MB approved jack point, where is another place to put the bottle jacks ?

Here's what i do (with a T1N, the NCV3 is different):



The bottle jack is doing the work (and the far wheel is double-blocked: both front and back), and the jack stand is positioned to "catch" a significant piece of frame metal.

Depending upon the job intended, there are times when i'd lift the bottle high enough to let the jack stand notch up one more step, and then i'd lower the bottle to distribute the weight to both supports.

This is my front end .. at the rear, i've got fewer substantial "safety" points ... but i'd position the jack stand to catch the weight, even if it meant a bit of crushed body/underframe metal rather than having it all end up on the ground (or me). The axle attachment to the springs might serve, but the body would drop significantly if the weight transferred from the bottle to there.

--dick

There's discussion here for NCV3 models.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65988

I'm certain that there are other threads too.

vic

Is that a 4 ton jack stand?

larrygee said:

Is that a 4 ton jack stand?

Click to expand...

I have a lightly-loaded 2500 Sprinter ... weighed at 5600 pounds "fully loaded"
...that's a (ready for it?) Harbor Freight 3-ton jack stand.

It is a significantly beefier beast than my 50-year-old pin-through-rolled-tube post 1 ton stands.



Two stands come in the box. Frequently on "sale" (or coupon).

(i would've included the old stands in that photo, but i can't find them at the moment)

--dick

autostaretx said:

I have a lightly-loaded 2500 Sprinter ... weighed at 5600 pounds "fully loaded"
...that's a (ready for it?) Harbor Freight 3-ton jack stand.
--dick

Click to expand...

So I’m not sure how to calculate what I need. I’m not trying to support 11,000 lbs, just EITHER the front OR back at any one time.

If one jack can support 6,000lbs, should one jack be sufficient to provide a safety backup if the bottle jack fails while changing a tire?

Larry

larrygee said:

...

If one jack can support 6,000lbs, should one jack be sufficient to provide a safety backup if the bottle jack fails while changing a tire?

Larry

Click to expand...

A 2 ton jack stand 4000# would be more than enough to support the vehicle during a tire change.

Block the wheels. Break the wheel lugs loose before lifting the vehicle.

My method is to raise the vehicle as needed using whatever lifting jack is preferred. After the vehicle is raised high enough, place the jack stand under the frame or other safe structural member. Slowly lower the vehicle down until the jack stand takes the weight. With the lifting jack still in position, rock the vehicle to assure that all is stable.

If the lifting jack doesn't interfere with the work, leave both the lifting jack and the jack stand(s) in position.

Changing a tire? Don't have a jack stand? Do not put any body parts under the vehicle while changing the tire.

Block the wheels. Break the wheel lugs loose before lifting the vehicle.

Use whatever lifting jack you prefer. Lift the vehicle until the flat tire is just off the ground. Rock the vehicle to check that all is stable. If ok, remove the flat tire. Basically position the replacement wheel/tire and jack the vehicle up until the initial wheel lugs can be engaged. After the first lug(s) is engaged, raise the vehicle such that the wheel can be rotated enough to install the remaining lugs.

Always keep in mind that you don't want to put any body parts under the vehicle.

Use my suggestions at your own risk.

vic

I agree that 4,000 pounds should be adequate to support any one corner of the coach . . . . and I would also use the jack stand AND the jack in tandem when changing a tire as Vic recommended. I would recommend a jack-stand with a flat base, as the 3 legged variety can sink into asphalt on a hot day and become unstable . . . . or, carry an epoxy coated 18 inch square of 1 1/2 inch plywood (two 3/4 pieces laminated together) to use as a base for the jack-stand. If you taper the edges of the plywood, it can also be useful to drive a set of dually's up on to level your rig when parking

Don

Aqua Puttana said:

A 2 ton jack stand 4000# would be more than enough to support the vehicle during a tire change.

Click to expand...

I agree with that statement, but i bought my pair of 3-ton stands when i bought the Sprinter, since i had no idea what i might be doing under there.
I'm not sure (at the moment) if the post of the HF stands is cast or forged. If it's cast, it would be a good safety idea to actually *test* (under full load) that each tooth can really hold the weight. A faulty casting would be disastrous.

Use whatever lifting jack you prefer. Lift the vehicle until the flat tire is just off the ground. Rock the vehicle to check that all is stable. If ok, remove the flat tire. Basically position the replacement wheel/tire and jack the vehicle up until the initial wheel lugs can be engaged. After the first lug(s) is engaged, raise the vehicle such that the wheel can be rotated enough to install the remaining lugs.

Click to expand...

My own approach is to first (during the removal process) lift the Sprinter that extra inch to allow the new tire to fit. Therefore the whole mess is stable (no altitude changes) during the entire procedure. As i position the new tire, i slip the bottom under the rotor. Then ii rotate the hub/rotor to align at least one lug hole so that i can finger-spin in one lug bolt near the top (if you have studs and nuts, this is easier).
Once one is in place, i can rotate the tire so that the already-there bolt *lifts* the tire and lets it center on the hub. I then finger-spin in the rest of the bolts.

Always keep in mind that you don't want to put any body parts under the vehicle.

Use my suggestions at your own risk.

vic

Click to expand...

Full agreement.

--dick

Your approach would be fine for me too.
I have no problem with higher rated jack stands for tire changing or other work. If an owner is going to carry jack stands on board (eg. - RV travelers), then a more reasonable size might make more sense.

autostaretx said:

...

My own approach is to first (during the removal process) lift the Sprinter that extra inch to allow the new tire to fit. Therefore the whole mess is stable (no altitude changes) during the entire procedure. ...

--dick

Click to expand...

I believe that we're talking about two different scenarios. Your extra 1" works with tire changes. My discussion was in answer to changing out a flat tire.

Flat tire changing.
I feel it is the safer move to remove the lugs while the flat tire is near the ground. during removal less drop is better to avoid pinching fingers or strains.

It is often difficult to judge the height required to have proper clearance for the new tire when replacing a flat. I feel that it is better to jack the vehicle up to what is needed vs jacking up extra height which isn't needed. The higher the tire change jack is raised, the less stable it becomes.

vic

Lets talk about the lug nuts. The Manual requires the lug nuts be torqued at 133 foot pounds.
At age of 80, I was not able (NO ROAD SERVICE AVAILABLE) break the lug nuts loose. I purchased a Impact Tool and a 19mm socket and off came the lug nuts. I then had them re- torqued at Discount Tire. Something to think about when you go off the grid.

GBHOTSTICK

gbhotstick said:

Lets talk about the lug nuts. The Manual requires the lug nuts be torqued at 133 foot pounds.
At age of 80, I was not able (NO ROAD SERVICE AVAILABLE) break the lug nuts loose. I purchased a Impact Tool and a 19mm socket and off came the lug nuts. I then had them re- torqued at Discount Tire. Something to think about when you go off the grid.

Click to expand...

How i loosen over-torqued lug nuts/bolts: with the jack.

Since i'm going to break the initial torque free with the wheels on the ground anyway,
it's only a minor annoyance to use the jack to lift the wrench handle when i can't break them free by hand (or jumping on the wrench handle).
At home i have a selection of pipes for "handle extension".

--dick