minigoogoo
Member
One of the first things I planned for our camper conversion was the installation of side windows. I initially considered having OE glass fitted, but ran into several roadblocks, from sourcing parts to installation. Like many others, I eventually settled on the vented windows from CR Laurence. Like most, I was attracted to the OE appearance, as well as the T-vent functionality.
I ordered the windows in July, just as they went on backorder at the manufacturer. My first windows arrived in October, and the slider window demonstrated the same alignment issues that others have seen between the two lower glass lites. Thankfully, I ordered from a local dealer who was extremely helpful in facilitating an exchange with CRL. After a few more weeks, I finally got a window without the alignment issues.
Cutting into a vehicle is scary for alot of us. Something about the combination of shiny new paint, beautiful factory stampings, and the finality of it all makes us fearful. Due to the QC issues with the windows, I had plenty of time to prep and consider how this would be done. I also have a lot of experience with fabrication, be it metal or wood, so I had the confidence that I could execute this project well.
I knew that I wanted to make the cuts with a jigsaw, and this dictated from which side I would cut. Because of the foot on the jigsaw, the only practical way to cut is from the outside. Since the 'cut to' line is the interior factory stamping, I had to transfer this line from inside to out. The first thing I did was drill a line of small holes from the inside, following the factory stamping.
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From the outside, the shape of the opening begins to appear. Note the big difference between the opening size and the edge of the exterior stamped profile, especially at the bottom. The lower glass lites have to hang down quite a bit to conform to the factory lines. I believe this is at least part of the challenge that CRL has in making the glass components align.
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Once I had the overall opening size transferred to the exterior, I used a straightedge and marker to establish the cut lines at the top, bottom, and both sides.
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As you can see, there is a good bit of the opening perimeter that is not truly straight. I eventually drilled more holes from the inside for a more precise transfer of the curves.
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More to follow...
I ordered the windows in July, just as they went on backorder at the manufacturer. My first windows arrived in October, and the slider window demonstrated the same alignment issues that others have seen between the two lower glass lites. Thankfully, I ordered from a local dealer who was extremely helpful in facilitating an exchange with CRL. After a few more weeks, I finally got a window without the alignment issues.
Cutting into a vehicle is scary for alot of us. Something about the combination of shiny new paint, beautiful factory stampings, and the finality of it all makes us fearful. Due to the QC issues with the windows, I had plenty of time to prep and consider how this would be done. I also have a lot of experience with fabrication, be it metal or wood, so I had the confidence that I could execute this project well.
I knew that I wanted to make the cuts with a jigsaw, and this dictated from which side I would cut. Because of the foot on the jigsaw, the only practical way to cut is from the outside. Since the 'cut to' line is the interior factory stamping, I had to transfer this line from inside to out. The first thing I did was drill a line of small holes from the inside, following the factory stamping.
-----------
From the outside, the shape of the opening begins to appear. Note the big difference between the opening size and the edge of the exterior stamped profile, especially at the bottom. The lower glass lites have to hang down quite a bit to conform to the factory lines. I believe this is at least part of the challenge that CRL has in making the glass components align.
-----------
Once I had the overall opening size transferred to the exterior, I used a straightedge and marker to establish the cut lines at the top, bottom, and both sides.
-----------
As you can see, there is a good bit of the opening perimeter that is not truly straight. I eventually drilled more holes from the inside for a more precise transfer of the curves.
-----------
More to follow...