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Old 09-23-2018, 03:58 AM   #941
hein
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

We've been living with an annoying rattle/buzz when crossing certain expansion joints. I finally traced it to the top bezel of our Norcold refrigerator. The top of the bezel rests against the face of the cabinet and is apparently prone to vibration. I needed to remove the top of the cabinet (it's attached with velcro) to remove the bezel and consider options to cure the rattle.

So to not let the opportunity go to waste, I decided to upgrade the LED indirect lighting and add a 12V socket for a nice low profile 12V portable fan we found on (you guessed it) Amazon. The result is a warmer interior look, imo. Culprit bezel is at the top of the fridge. I simply added a couple screws at the top to hold it more firmly against the cabinet. The dual fan works great in that position on top of the cabinet. These are the strip lights I am using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG



Each cabinet was originally wired with a large 12V supply cable which then splits off to the various electrical items in that cabinet. So just a matter of tapping into that supply and adding some smaller inline fuses for the light strips and 12V outlet circuits. Much easier than running more wires back to the main fuse panel. Still, it took 1/2 of a day to build the wire harnesses, rework the lights and add the 12v socket.

Rather than use a fuse block, buss or terminal post I bolt together a stack of crimped and soldered eyes with a 10-32 SS screw and nylock nut. Then wrap that with some cloth electrical tape leaving a tail should I need to unwrap for further upgrades or service. The positive connection bundle is then secured to a nonconductive surface. Not photos but could take some if more detail is needed.

I'd like to share another trick that I used when installing the air tank mounting....

There is more infra-structure under our van than most. I'm not shy about drilling holes (with some structural consideration) in the frame for thu-bolting brackets for components and numerous p-clamps to hold wiring, cables and plumbing. One convenience is the ample number of larger factory created holes to fish blind nuts through. The problem is getting and holding the nuts in position while threading in the bolt from the outside. The access hole is often far away from the bolt hole.

Some time ago a wise farmer friend gave me a roll of bailing wire and said simply, "keep this handy."

He may not have ever thought I would wrap it around a serrated flange nut, glue it with CA and then bend the wire tail to wiggle it into the bowels of the frame of my Mercedes Sprinter van. Works great but you need to hold your tongue just right. The wire is sufficient to hold the nut until its teeth grab.





All the best and happy van building,
Hein
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2010 MB 3500 RV conversion.

Last edited by hein; 09-23-2018 at 04:39 AM.
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Old 01-19-2019, 02:40 PM   #942
hein
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Build out a van, go have some fun in it. Things will break. That's a sign of the good life! The CRL windows in our Spinter have been opened and closed many many times. Even drove with them slightly open. When I close them I tend to do it firmly so they don't rattle. Some time ago, I replaced the weather strip after it compressed and allowed the glass to contact the metal frame in some spots.

So what happened? Something in the crank mechanism stripped. Window wouldn't open and wasn't held closed. Suspect was the crank mechanism so needed to remove the window lift mechanism. First step is to remove screws and drill out the 1/8" diameter rivets shown in photos below. There is a plastic cover in the center that snaps out. With a spinning nut behind it.





Now remove the mechanism by pulling the pivot on the right side down out of the channel and then the side with the crank will come out too. The window won't fall out. The plastic bushings on the lift arms slide out of the bottom of the channels attached to the window pane.

Below is a photo showing the complete lift mechanism, new crank, plastic center cover and associated hardware.


I ordered an new crank mechanism from CRL. (DIYvan.com will stock both R and L cranks since it took a long time to get them from CRL.) Below is photo of new and old parts showing that the internal dogs that turn the tube had sheared off.


I cleaned up the edge of the tube where the drive dogs engage. These edges were sharp and had not been deburred so probably a factor in the failure by cutting the softer metal in the crank mechanism.


Decided to replace all the rivets with 8-32 screws. The crank mechanism gets a threaded hole in the top. The location of this hole is more-or-less centered over an unused cross hole. Not the easiest hole to drill and tap. Bottom tap is needed.


more tapping.


Parts reworked and screws ready:


Reinstalling is a little bit tricky. Arms must engage slots in window. Lift assist spring has to be tucked up into the channel. I drilled the holes bigger since the screws are slightly larger than the original rivets. That gave me the ability to adjust the position before tightening. That was easier than installing new pop rivets.

All done:


All the best,
Hein

P.S Due to the long lead time obtaining the crank gear box from CRL, we now stock both R and L versions and also the knobs. Please contact Kim or I to order.
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Old 01-19-2019, 04:21 PM   #943
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Thank you letting us know. Interesting that driving dogs stripped but gears didn’t, would expect the other way around.
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Old 01-19-2019, 04:31 PM   #944
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeRa View Post
Thank you letting us know. Interesting that driving dogs stripped but gears didn’t, would expect the other way around.
The drive sleeve with internal dogs appears to be sintered metal. Once I understood the failure mode, I considered cross drilling and inserting a roll pin (insitu) but decided to replace the part that I waited so long to get.

The other cranks feel looser than the new one so probably due for replacement as well.

All the best,
Hein
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Old 01-22-2019, 10:41 PM   #945
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

It was a bad idea to mount an air compressor inside under the seat.



Air systems are never 100% leak free. We have Glide-Rite full rear air suspension so need to maintain a pressurized tank for the air springs. The compressor can come on at anytime and run for 15-30 seconds to top off the tank. It is really loud and turns the passenger seat into a vibrating massage chair. Thinsulate draped over the pump does help the noise but not enough.

I found a nifty place under the hood so in process of relocating the pump there. First thing was to purchase some better isolators to mount it on. The ones that came on the pump are basically solid mounts. More photos and progress coming up.

Trips to the barn with tools and supplies to work on the van are a little easier and quicker (not fewer) these days. I found a non-running American Landmaster 36V E-UTV on CL for fairly cheap. There were no batteries and the electrical system was a dangling maize of wires and cables. Took me a couple weeks to get it figured out and running again.

Photo below. Bringing it home in our Promaster 136HR R&D van. Fits right in.



Running with upgrades!


Have a little thread going on it. Be careful that you don't get sucked into this hobby (as I apparently have). Some crazy buggies out there.

All the best,
Hein
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Old 01-23-2019, 12:32 AM   #946
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Quote:
Originally Posted by hein View Post
It was a bad idea to mount an air compressor inside under the seat.



Air systems are never 100% leak free. We have Glide-Rite full rear air suspension so need to maintain a pressurized tank for the air springs. The compressor can come on at anytime and run for 15-30 seconds to top off the tank. It is really loud and turns the passenger seat into a vibrating massage chair. Thinsulate draped over the pump does help the noise but not enough.

I found a nifty place under the hood so in process of relocating the pump there. First thing was to purchase some better isolators to mount it on. The ones that came on the pump are basically solid mounts. More photos and progress coming up.

Trips to the barn with tools and supplies to work on the van are a little easier and quicker (not fewer) these days. I found a non-running American Landmaster 36V E-UTV on CL for fairly cheap. There were no batteries and the electrical system was a dangling maize of wires and cables. Took me a couple weeks to get it figured out and running again.

Photo below. Bringing it home in our Promaster 136HR R&D van. Fits right in.



Running with upgrades!


Have a little thread going on it. Be careful that you don't get sucked into this hobby (as I apparently have). Some crazy buggies out there.

All the best,
Hein


You’ve no doubt found the “Buggies Gone Wild” forum?

I discovered it while looking for a rear axle for our Burning Man Art Car.

Crazy stuff on there indeed!



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Old 01-26-2019, 06:03 AM   #947
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Unseasonably beautiful day in Hood River today so had the garage door open up at the barn and working on finishing the compressor relocation project. Must have made 10 trips back/forth in the E-UTV for various tools, supplies and side jobs back at the garage. Enjoyed the drives so maybe subconsciously forgot stuff.

I actually had the compressor mounted earlier in the week but then decided to add the isolation mounts which took a few days to arrive from McMaster Carr. I purchased 3 different durometers and ended up using the harder ones because they can handle more shear. Below is a photo of them attached to the RH inner fender structure.


After contorting my arms & hands to fight with blind nuts I realized that I could easily access the space with the headlight removed. The plastic tank to the right of the photo is my non-stock washer reservoir location. I previously moved that over to the right side so I could install an Isotemp water heater over the LH front fender. Next photo shows pump mounted as seen through headlight opening:


I also removed the forward fender liner so I could route the air hose to the passenger seat pedestal. Hose reel and filter/drier are still located there with another air line continuing to the air tank ahead of the rear axle underneath. Photo below shows hose routed next to DEF fill and vent tubes. (3500 has larger DEF tank underneath.) Cables (in split loom) for the DC-to-DC charger are also routed through this space.


Below. A photo from above with the pump mounted, wired, plumbed and tank re-pressurized. Can still hear it in the cab but not nearly as annoying or loud compared to the former under seat location.


I ran the compressor intake tube into the airbox and located its filter behind the cabin air filter. (which I replaced.)


All the best,
Hein
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Old 01-29-2019, 04:35 AM   #948
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Hein... Masterful work ... After reading the whole thread, we are inspired by your craftmanship and dedication ...
This is our mini-bible for our 2013 Sprinter conversion recently started.... Many thanks
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Old 02-13-2019, 02:26 AM   #949
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Thumbs up Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Hi Hein, You say
The EZcool is not in direct contact with the van outer skin and it doesn't go all the way down (-1/2") to leave the drain channels unblocked.

if that is the case am I to understand that all that is holding the EZcool in place is the 'slits' where necessary and you then foiled taped as best you could to the OUTER shell? Then used adhesive to glue the Thinsulate to the Ezcool?
I have a MWB MB HR Sprinter 2014 and the rib structure looks quite different to your 2010 vehicle.I want to use it in the more difficult areas and was wondering in those situations when you came accross them did you NOT use spray adhesive? I noticed in one pic that you seem to have use foam spray.


Can you clarify this for me, please?
Appreciate your time
Giacomo. Working on a Dream
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Old 02-20-2019, 06:36 PM   #950
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

Is there anyone making and selling this type of support framing?

I want to mount my AC as far back as possible to maximize space for solar.


Quote:
Originally Posted by hein View Post
AC support framing weldments:

Cross member weld fixture. Needed to make four identical cross members to go
longitudinally between the OEM roof cross members.





Front Frame welded. It goes around the 14x14 hole and supports the roof opening. The formed metal frame lying on top is used to clamp the unit against the roof with 4 long screws.



Rear Frame test fit. This holds up the 4 supports on the rear of the AC unit where the compressor and condenser fan are located.



Both frames will be bolted in place using 1/4-20 rivet nuts and glued to the skin with 3M urethane window weld adhesive.

P.S. We filled the roof ribs with expanding foam and sealed the holes with Dynamat. (-Which was a bad idea because the expanding foam did not cure and kept running out on sunny days. We now recommend pulling Thinsulate strips into the ribs.)

Last edited by Lostgriz; 02-20-2019 at 06:38 PM.
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