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I notice Foster used a pair of unique beefy hinge brackets that look different from the oem hinge plates in parts catalog diagrams. Any ideas where these hinge brackets can be found?
I had the hinge bracket (the red primed piece in the thread) fabricated by a local welder for $125.

I was given some of the original OEM brackets that had been cut off another Sprinter with the intention of welding them back on to were our Westy ones had been cut off, but they were so wimpy, I didn't want to use them which is why I designed and had built the bracket assembly that I did.
 
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Adolphus

Member
I’m interested in your hinge pieces that each have one bolt hole and the other ends go into the slots. Can you please tell me where I can get them?
 

Adolphus

Member
I’ve decided to go with the original equipment Mopar part number 05104081AA which are less than three dollars each and allow adjustment up and down for different tire sizes when I add additional bolt holes.
 

Adolphus

Member
Thinking of securing the new Coleman ac from the underside of the installed 1/8 inch Aluminum plate directly with the supplied retainer bracket,This would prevent having create a new wood 14x14 inch frame other than what’s necessary to run ducting through original cabinet. It would also prevent having to grind down an edge of the retaining bracket. The picture of me holding up the retaining bracket against the temporary styrofoam is where the Al plate is to be secured by original kerstner bolts on top (a la Allcamp’s method). Any thoughts?
 

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OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Not sure I follow.

1. Whatever you do, bolts are accessible from underneath?

2. How does weight support work?

The entire weight of AC is carried by aluminum plate, which is carried by top layer of fiberglass top?

Versus (true or not???) Weight of original air conditioner carried by top layer of fiberglass, wood frame carried by top layer and inner layer--then carried by bathroom wall??? (Don't know if the weight of original AC was carried how???)

Better example is the original bathroom roof vent. The vent was a clamp on so the weight of the vent was carried by both the top layer, wood frame, and inner ceiling layer---sandwiched together.
 

Adolphus

Member
Aluminum plate to be secured at six points defined by original bolts holding down prior kerstner ac. Will be using sikaflex 715 for sealing on top of preexisting flange now cut flush as per picture. Not sure how much sikaflex to use. The flange also sits on an existing sandwich of inner and outer ceiling shells with a small wood frame in between. The main difference with the bathroom vent is my big opening of about 25”x16”is being downsized to accommodate approx 14x14 opening (represented by two smaller openings at present for supply and return air which will feed from/to iriginal cabinet attached to bathroom wall above door. The 16x16 inch foam seal bears maybe half the weight on the aluminum spreading the load out to the bigger original opening. My concern is whether it would cause a drum effect as compared to putting in a wood frame and attaching the bracket below(using four long bolts in either option)
 
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OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
If the two layers of the roof had been glued together with a polyurethane foam, it'd be like a SIP--Structurally Insulated Panel. The fiberglass roof would have been much stronger.

In lieu of a 14"x14" frame, could you use some spray foam in a can to fill in some of the empty volume areas so no drum effect? If you find the right kind of foam, might even add some strength. Lots of cautions re spray foam, including later unwanted expansion, VOCs, hassle to remove if later repairs, etc.

Also, just remembered TNeuer found their fiberglass roof around the skylight had sunken and added some support. But your big piece of aluminum would presumably do the same thing.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=58503&highlight=Skylight+support
 
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Adolphus

Member
I like that idea. I can flush out the bottom side of the bracket with foam and then glue on thin plastic or wood base flush with the ceiling with clearance for airways. I’ll post a pic when I get to that stage. Need to find help to lift the ac onto the roof first. Should be a lot easier that my removal of the Kerstner (solo).
 

onemanvan

Active member
I would strongly caution against the use of expanding foam in this application. Based on personal experience I believe it will cause the area around your opening to bulge outward. As a result your aluminum plate will no longer lay flat against the roof! There's really no way to predict or control how much bulging will occur. But one things for sure - it will bulge and it will do it very forcefully! Been there - done that:)
 

Adolphus

Member
Your concern and caution noted and appreciated. In this application I don’t believe bulging will be a concern since I would be spraying into an open cavity like a large upside down pizza box. After it cures I would shave off the excess and glue a thin cover to flush it out with the interior ceiling.
 

onemanvan

Active member
Ah! Now I understand - my mistake - I thought you were contemplating spraying foam between the outer and inner fiberglass shell...
 

Adolphus

Member
This is where I am now. Used flooring hardwoods that are tongue and grooved together and attached with structural adhesive. I will be drilling the holes through the wood frame from the patterned holes already in the aluminum plate above. Then I will foam in the rest from below (sans duct openings) flush with the inner ceiling.
 

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Adolphus

Member
Since my goal is to use the Coleman control panel and not alter the rooftop ac wiring harness my plan is the following:
AC controller will be secured on back side of large return air grill without making any new holes and allows me to use the existing harness without an extension and still plenty of airflow. The black rectangle shows where I’ll fabricate an aluminum face plate to hold everything in place.
 

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Adolphus

Member
Cassette toilet and modified shower pan installed but caulking still to go. Used the power source from the black tank level sensor display (like Allcamp) for the toilet water pump, and routed wiring from the upper passenger side closet down to the rear lower storage area and across to the driver’s side. I like that this keeps the same fuse as the original toilet. I kept the toilet seat as high as the valance would allow.
 

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onemanvan

Active member
I tried several different caulks/sealants - including sikaflex - and found Dow 739 worked the best. As with any adhesive the surface must be clean and lightly sanded. I purchased this product from McMaster-Carr. Dow Corning Number 739 Silicone Sealant for Plastics, 10.1-Ounce Cartridge, White
 

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