2004 Sprinter crank bolt snapped while on 101 fwy.
- Thread starter stoney500
- Start date
PATECO
Member
Sorry to hear that, (but not really
).With the parts, freight and tools, I think I was less than $500. Plus 1/2 of a day of my own labor. Now even if I billed myself at my regular hourly rate its still less than the $2700 your dealer charged. So I am glad I did it. Now that I have done it once, it will be a lot easier should I ever have to do it again.
Turbo John
New member
Since I am in Florida do you want to do mine before it breaks? 
PATECO
Member
Where are you located TurboJohn? I might be willing to loan you the flywheel lock tool, and 27mm impact Socket.Since I am in Florida do you want to do mine before it breaks?
Turbo John
New member
I am in Vero.........I am thinking about changing my HB for the hell of it...I have about 80k on my Sprinter...I am going to keep this van until I die I know......so I am replacing things I know will need it anyway like the driveshaft HB/Ac compressor/alternator/Starterl etc
Not that you asked...
"If it doesn't f*ck with you, don't f*ck with it."
My 2004 at 291,000 miles has the OEM driveshaft, HB, A/C compressor, turbo resonator, starter...
(knocking/touching wood furiously as I type this.
) Ciprian has most all OEM drive train parts at over 715,000 highway miles.That said, maybe the heat of Florida is a factor for the HB.
Another factor is having the HB with extra belt for the rear A/C. Those units seem to be more prone to failure.
vic
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PATECO
Member
Turbo John,
That is like no mileage. I agree with Aqua Putana.
Don't do it until you need to. Mine had ≈ 250,000 miles on it when it failed.
Just keep it clean and waxed, and regularly remove any leaf debris from under the hood. This will help delay the steel cancer. I wish these things would fit in an automated car wash.
My next project is a little cancer surgery by the battery box, and the right side rear door bottom. Just bubbles for now, but I don't want them turning into gaping holes.
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Turbo John
New member
I keep thinking about touring the USa with my son next summer......I cannot afford to break down on the highway that's for sure. A year ago or so I would not even think of it but since the starting issues are over I have the confidence to take this trip.
The think that haunts me is not the mileage because I have only 80k on my truck but its the age?.......Age does not fit all issues but some it does...........which ones I dunno!
I have changed the cosmetic part of the truck which I never liked and now the mechanical is in good shape except for some rusty brake lines which I do not like the look of....I will have to replace those for sure.....but for some things I am not sure of.........but I know Vic will come and get me if we have a problem!
The think that haunts me is not the mileage because I have only 80k on my truck but its the age?.......Age does not fit all issues but some it does...........which ones I dunno!
I have changed the cosmetic part of the truck which I never liked and now the mechanical is in good shape except for some rusty brake lines which I do not like the look of....I will have to replace those for sure.....but for some things I am not sure of.........but I know Vic will come and get me if we have a problem!
When I replaced my broken Harmonic Balancer last February, I used an OEM balancer and a new bolt, didn't have to remove the key. I torqued it to 240ft/lb and then about 60 degrees, couldn't do 90, the whole engine was moving up on mounts and I was afraid I might break something... Should I be concerned, since I didn't go all 90 degrees? I have driven around 10K miles since then.
Val
Val
abittenbinder
Doktor A (864-623-9110)
First, the key cannot be removed unless it has failed and sheared. Half of it is trapped by the timing chain drive sprocket.
Regarding your 60 degree rotation, the 90 degree rotation (only for original and replacement bolts marked '10.9' ) is important. It assures the bolt has reached it's yield point and thus infinite fatigue life.
Late model year '06 Sprinters and some replacement cranks use a asymmetric thread bolt with it's own unique torque specs. Be sure you use the correct bolt for your application.
Doktor A
abittenbinder
Doktor A (864-623-9110)
Was your new bolt 13k miles ago marked '10.9' which I assume your original bolt was marked?
Doktor A
Doktor A bitte, do you the vin # after which the bolt configuration changed?
Doktor A,
Yes, both old and new bolts had "10.9" on them. The old bolt still has a washer on it, I must have replaced the washer too, don't remember if they come together or separately.
Thank you.
abittenbinder
Doktor A (864-623-9110)
A new bolt does not come with the thick conical washer. Are you sure you have one in place?
I'm asking you all these questions because I am concerned about your description of how difficult the 90 degree final step was to complete. In your case you gave up tightening, short of 90 degrees.
As big as that bolt is, it behaves as any smaller stretch to yield bolt would behave as it approaches it's yield point- the torque while tightening does not increase at that point but the curve flattens and torque effort flattens. In other words it feels like a bolt yielding and stretching not like a bolt that has stopped rotating because it has hit the bottom of a blind hole.
Doktor A
abittenbinder
Doktor A (864-623-9110)
Daimler Chrysler specified an engine serial number(51-186332) when the switch over occurred not a VIN.
Forget about ever reading the engine number, just check the bolt head for grade marking.
The difference between the bolts is metallurgy AND asymmetric threads.
The later bolt's asymmetric threads will feel ok in an early crank but need to be mated to the proper threads of the later crank design and visa-versa.
Doktor A
Doktor A,
Yes, new bolt, new washer, new seal. I had an 18" breaker bar and I pulled a pipe over it to get more leverage.
Thanks to all for your input and knowledge from experience with my crank bolt failure issue.
I used the J B Weld for repairing the woodruff keyway on the crankshaft. I have the "half moon type" keyway machined into the crankshaft that takes separate woodruff keys for the timing sprocket and HB. I did use a new woodruff key and oem balancer with new crank bolt. All in all that area of the repair was a complete success. That repair went well up until the bolt torquing step was in full swing. I should have thought this out better because I probably wouldn't be going through the nightmare that I am smack in the middle of right now. I will start a new thread later tonight with the even worse nightmare than the crank bolt failure issue that started this thread.
note: Although I had it running for 1 1/2 days after the HB problem was fixed, the van went down again and is still down. Flatbed rescue from the 405 south at the base of the grade heading toward West L.A. this time. Transmission complete loss of drive.
I used the J B Weld for repairing the woodruff keyway on the crankshaft. I have the "half moon type" keyway machined into the crankshaft that takes separate woodruff keys for the timing sprocket and HB. I did use a new woodruff key and oem balancer with new crank bolt. All in all that area of the repair was a complete success. That repair went well up until the bolt torquing step was in full swing. I should have thought this out better because I probably wouldn't be going through the nightmare that I am smack in the middle of right now. I will start a new thread later tonight with the even worse nightmare than the crank bolt failure issue that started this thread.
note: Although I had it running for 1 1/2 days after the HB problem was fixed, the van went down again and is still down. Flatbed rescue from the 405 south at the base of the grade heading toward West L.A. this time. Transmission complete loss of drive.