Limp home mode

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Leaks in the tubing can also lightly spray oil in the area ... look for baked-on "old oil" as a way of tracing the source.

--dick
 

loudecuz

New member
Here is how I solved it 1) the boost pressure sensor was bad and they sent me the wrong one at first. It still showed one last problem. I followed the advise of others and took the ecu out and found the black connector and undid it slid the 2 parts out of the connector pretty easy there is a little tab holding them in. connected a super long wire to the 2 pins It is pin number 35 and 48. The white one ohmed out fine the brown one did not. I pulled out the drivers side head light and found the wiring harness and cut the cover off. The 2 tires are twisted together in the harness the whole way this will help with identifying the wires. I cut them both when I checked then from the plug to the cut both wires were fine. When I checked them to the connector the brown wire was not good. I took trailer wiring there are 2 types one with thick wires and on with thin wires we these on our race cars so you can run long stretches of wires together . Plus the wiring I used has brown and white. Cut the ends spliced the wires and bam full power. I have no outside temp either it all started when they replaced the AC condenser they must have pinched the wires on both going to do the same thing for the out side temp, do uses wire loom just to protect the wires I ran way easier than finding the break.
THANK YOU ALL for helping. When I tested the leads with the ecu plugged in it was correct but testing the actual wires worked THANKS
 

loudecuz

New member
Leaks in the tubing can also lightly spray oil in the area ... look for baked-on "old oil" as a way of tracing the source.

--dick
I also tested the system by buying an 1 1/2 plug for home depot and pulled the hose off the back side of the air cleaner and plugged the hose there. pulled the hose off the front of the intake manifold and put a plug in that will try to get what I used and threaded an air inlet onto it and put it to a compressor that had pressure control found a little hole in the hose from the air box to the turbo but that would not cause limp mode the creation cost about 5 bucks form home depot as a pressure testing tool
 
Here is a wiring schematic I was sent for the vac valve on my UK spec OM611, it should match your USA spec OM612, but do check carefully.

View attachment 125111

Keith.

PS Note that the solenoid is component 'Y87' and that the Brown wire (Br) is a 12 volt live and is NOT a ground as per usual MB wiring. The White (Ws or Wt) wire is then a control signal which is grounded inside the ECM to modulate the opening of the valve.

Also see wiring diagram on page 8W-30-6 of the 2003 Service Manual in DIY Sprinter (link below).
Thanks for sharing! I’m showing p1470-04 +short to gr What your process for interrogating The wiring harness? Do they make an adapter to stick in obd2 port or ecm/pcm to more easily test each component? I use the paper clip and gay wires going to test lead on the multi meter and wonder how much that throws the resistance off
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Thanks for sharing! I’m showing p1470-04 +short to gr What your process for interrogating The wiring harness? Do they make an adapter to stick in obd2 port or ecm/pcm to more easily test each component? I use the paper clip and gay wires going to test lead on the multi meter and wonder how much that throws the resistance off
From my notes P1470 - 4 means 'Charge pressure control valve - Cable has Short circuit to Positive' and is usually a sign that the vacuum control solenoid has failed electrically with too low a resistance and hence too high a current.

More info here... https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/67865/

Keith.
 
From my notes P1470 - 4 means 'Charge pressure control valve - Cable has Short circuit to Positive' and is usually a sign that the vacuum control solenoid has failed electrically with too low a resistance and hence too high a current.

More info here... https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/67865/

Keith.
That’s what i have as well, I’m not getting a ohm reading on the solenoid which may be due to the ohm (short) out to ground on the brown wire that i found which likely burnt my solenoid up. But now i need to find that wire and trace it to the short
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
That’s what i have as well, I’m not getting a ohm reading on the solenoid which may be due to the ohm (short) out to ground on the brown wire that i found which likely burnt my solenoid up. But now i need to find that wire and trace it to the short
You are aware that the BROWN wire is actually a 12 volt POSITIVE feed from the ECM, yes?

At first I thought Brown was always chassis or 12 volt Negative but in this particular instance it is not!

Keith.

PS Have you tried unplugging the valve, clearing the code then re-scanning for new codes? Try it and report back please.
 
Last edited:
You are aware that the BROWN wire is actually a 12 volt POSITIVE feed from the ECM, yes?

At first I thought Brown was always chassis or 12 volt Negative but in this particular instance it is not!

Keith.

PS Have you tried unplugging the valve, clearing the code then re-scanning for new codes? Try it and report back please.
yes code has been cleared and comes back immediately. After tracing these two wires the the ecm i have found no break via resistance.
I have further pin pointed the problem i believe. With engine and key off, the brown wire (Solenoid circuit) shortS to ground at the solenoid pigtail This only happens when the first connector on the ecm gets plugged in (The other 4 connectors ARE plugged into ecm at this time) I unplug the first connection on ecm and NO short to ground.
The third connection on ecm contains the solenoid circuit not the first so something on the first connection on ecm is causing this short to ground on the solenoid circuit.

Have i explained this well enough?
 

loudecuz

New member
The ECU connection 3 number 6 17 22 35 48 I had to check I did not believe that a break in the wire was the issue but it was right under the radiator ran new wires an wala fixed my original solenoid was still good replaced it 2 time
s. Part of the issue was it could kind of giggle and re connect every time i would replace the part .

1 18BR/DG INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR GROUND
5 18BL/RD ACCEL PEDAL POSITION SENSOR 5 VOLT SUPPLY
6 18WT/DG BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR SIGNAL
7 20BR/YL MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR GROUND
8 18BR/GY ACCEL PEDAL POSITION SENSOR GROUND NO. 2
9 18GY/DG ACCEL PEDAL POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL NO. 2
10 18BL/DG ACCEL PEDAL POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL NO. 1
12 18DG/WT INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL
17 18WT/RD BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR 5 VOLT SUPPLY
18 20YL/DG MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR SIGNAL
19 20BR/BK MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR 5 VOLT SUPPLY
20 18VT IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START)
22 18BR/WT BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR GROUND
23 18BR/BL ACCEL PEDAL POSITION SENSOR GROUND NO. 1
25 18BK/RD GLOW PLUG MODULE CONTROL
28 20BL/YL K-ECM
30 18RD/BL STARTER MOTOR RELAY 12 VOLT SUPPLY
33 20YL/RD MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR 12 VOLT SUPPLY
35 20BR BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID 12 VOLT SUPPLY
40 20DG/YL ENGINE RPM
43 18VT/DG STARTER MOTOR RELAY CONTROL
46 18YL/BL ENGINE CONTROL RELAY SIGNAL
48 20WT BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID CONTROL



BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID - BLACK connector
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 20WT BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID CONTROL
2 20BR BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID 12 VOLT SUPPLY
 

loudecuz

New member
Note: All symptoms listed above are diagnosed using the same tests.
The title for the tests will be P1470-BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID
CIRCUIT - PLAUSIBILITY.
When Monitored and Set Condition:
P1470-BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID CIRCUIT - PLAUSIBILITY
When Monitored: With the ignition on.
Set Condition: The Boost Pressure Sensor indicates less boost pressure than the ECM is
commanding.
P1470-BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID CIRCUIT NEGATIVE DEVIATION
When Monitored: With the ignition on.
Set Condition: The Boost Pressure Sensor indicates more boost pressure than the ECM
is commanding.
P1470-BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID CIRCUIT POSITIVE DEVIATION
When Monitored: With the ignition on.
Set Condition: The Boost Pressure Sensor indicates less boost pressure than the ECM is
commanding.
POSSIBLE CAUSES
INTERMITTENT CONDITION
CHECKING VACUUM SUPPLY
BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID
ENGINE CONTROL MODULE
122
DRIVEABILITY - DIESEL
TEST ACTION APPLICABILITY
1 NOTE: If the ECM detects and stores a DTC, the ECM also stores the
engine/vehicle operating conditions under which the DTC was set. Some of
these conditions are displayed on the DRB at the same time the DTC is
displayed.
NOTE: Before erasing stored DTCs, record these conditions. Attempting to
duplicate these conditions may assist when checking for an active DTC.
NOTE: Ensure all turbocharger inlet and outlet tubes are connected properly,
without damage and restriction before continuing with this test. Also
ensure the vacuum chamber actuator and actuator rod are attached and
functioning properly.
Turn the ignition on.
With the DRBIIIt, erase ECM DTCs.
Test drive the vehicle.
Monitor the DRBIIIt for ECM DTCs.
Did this DTC set again?
All
Yes ! Go To 2
No ! Go To 4
2 Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect both vacuum lines at the Boost Pressure Solenoid.
Using a vacuum line connection tee, connect the vacuum supply line to the Boost
Pressure Solenoid Output line at the Boost Pressure Solenoid.
Disconnect the vacuum line at the Boost Pressure Vacuum Unit.
Connect a vacuum gauge to the Boost Pressure Solenoid Output line at the Boost
Pressure Vacuum Unit
Start the engine.
With the engine at idle, note the vacuum gauge reading.
Is the vacuum above 20 inches?
All
Yes ! Go To 3
No ! Inspect the vacuum hoses/tubes for damage, restriction and leaks.
If OK, refer to the Service Information to check the Vacuum Pump
operation.
Perform ROAD TEST VERIFICATION - VER-2.
3 Turn the ignition off.
Install a substitute Boost Pressure Solenoid in place of the vehicle’s Boost Pressure
Solenoid.
NOTE: Ensure the ECM and Boost Pressure Solenoid harness connectors
are connected.
Turn the ignition on.
With the DRB, check for this DTC to set again.
Did this DTC set again?
All
Yes ! Replace and program the Engine Control Module in accordance
with the Service Information.
Perform ROAD TEST VERIFICATION - VER-2.
No ! Replace the Boost Pressure Solenoid.
Perform ROAD TEST VERIFICATION - VER-2.
 

loudecuz

New member
all of my issues were right under the radiator area even the outside temp failed when I opened the harness up in the curve before the radiator I found all of my issues the outside temp wire just pulled right out when i pulled on it. The other wires were shorted so I created a new set of wires an went around the radiator so I did not have to remove the old harness and ran all new wires. I used trailer wiring harness way cheaper than individual wires and the led wires are small just like the originals. Hope that helps
 

loudecuz

New member
From my notes P1470 - 4 means 'Charge pressure control valve - Cable has Short circuit to Positive' and is usually a sign that the vacuum control solenoid has failed electrically with too low a resistance and hence too high a current.

More info here... https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/67865/

Keith.
You rock your posts are super helpful and I am grateful for all of the information you provide to people who are in need of help THANK YOU AGAIN you make the world a better place!
 
The ECU connection 3 number 6 17 22 35 48 I had to check I did not believe that a break in the wire was the issue but it was right under the radiator ran new wires an wala fixed my original solenoid was still good replaced it 2 time
s. Part of the issue was it could kind of giggle and re connect every time i would replace the part .

1 18BR/DG INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR GROUND
5 18BL/RD ACCEL PEDAL POSITION SENSOR 5 VOLT SUPPLY
6 18WT/DG BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR SIGNAL
7 20BR/YL MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR GROUND
8 18BR/GY ACCEL PEDAL POSITION SENSOR GROUND NO. 2
9 18GY/DG ACCEL PEDAL POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL NO. 2
10 18BL/DG ACCEL PEDAL POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL NO. 1
12 18DG/WT INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL
17 18WT/RD BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR 5 VOLT SUPPLY
18 20YL/DG MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR SIGNAL
19 20BR/BK MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR 5 VOLT SUPPLY
20 18VT IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START)
22 18BR/WT BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR GROUND
23 18BR/BL ACCEL PEDAL POSITION SENSOR GROUND NO. 1
25 18BK/RD GLOW PLUG MODULE CONTROL
28 20BL/YL K-ECM
30 18RD/BL STARTER MOTOR RELAY 12 VOLT SUPPLY
33 20YL/RD MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR 12 VOLT SUPPLY
35 20BR BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID 12 VOLT SUPPLY
40 20DG/YL ENGINE RPM
43 18VT/DG STARTER MOTOR RELAY CONTROL
46 18YL/BL ENGINE CONTROL RELAY SIGNAL
48 20WT BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID CONTROL



BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID - BLACK connector
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 20WT BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID CONTROL
2 20BR BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID 12 VOLT SUPPLY
Do you have the schematic for connection 1 on the ECM? I believe my problem with the boost solenoid circuit lies there
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Wiring diagrams for a 2003 Sprinter are on 'DIY Sprinter' under '2003SprinterManuals.zip' here...


The wiring for the Boost pressure Solenoid is on page 8W-30-6.

I suspect the 12 volt feed from the ECM also supplies several other components and one of those has the short to ground but the ECM is reporting this as the BPS as this is the first it checks on start up.

Keith.
 
Wiring diagrams for a 2003 Sprinter are on 'DIY Sprinter' under '2003SprinterManuals.zip' here...


The wiring for the Boost pressure Solenoid is on page 8W-30-6.

I suspect the 12 volt feed from the ECM also supplies several other components and one of those has the short to ground but the ECM is reporting this as the BPS as this is the first it checks on start up.

Keith.
My suspicion as well. Thanks for the insight! And info
upon diagnosis at MB they said that putting a new tranny in was the solution because it had a tranny code among others....that was a 200$ well spent...
 
Okay, after doing some reading I have noted that c3 on the ecm contains the BPS pin 35 & 48 in which the brown wire (+) has a short to ground(my main issue). While testing there is no short when c1 on the ecm is unplugged. C1 only contains supply (+) and grounds to the other circuits in ecm. So c3 get its power and ground from c1 pin 5&7
so to me this means there is an internal short in ecm between c1 and c3? Do you think the issue could be anything else other than ecm being faulty?

This van has 109k on it and throwing many codes
 

Attachments

The codes are:
P1470-000 , p1470-001, p1470-002, p1470-004, p1470-016, p1470-064
P1481-000
P1482-000
P2204-000, p2204-001,p2204-002, p2204-004, p2204-016, p2204-064
C3501
P2316-000, p2316-032, p2316-064
P2313-000, p2313-032
B1004-008

the BPS short to ground is the only one that comes back immediately Followed by the CAN BUS codes

on a side note when i got this thing i did not know much about MB and saw the tranny codes Via dealership scan and printout and replaced the valve body checked the harness to TCM and replaced TCM This did not fix my no boost LHM issue so i got a scanner and here i am
 

Scottdi90

New member
Okay, after doing some reading I have noted that c3 on the ecm contains the BPS pin 35 & 48 in which the brown wire (+) has a short to ground(my main issue). While testing there is no short when c1 on the ecm is unplugged. C1 only contains supply (+) and grounds to the other circuits in ecm. So c3 get its power and ground from c1 pin 5&7
so to me this means there is an internal short in ecm between c1 and c3? Do you think the issue could be anything else other than ecm being faulty?

This van has 109k on it and throwing many codes

Hi, old thread I know, did you ever get a solution to this problem as I have exactly the same issue regarding short when plugging C1 back into ecu.
 

loudecuz

New member
I sent my ECU to the people who redo them and it solved that problem. I had to replace the pressure sender the turbo control and all of the wiring that controlled anything related to the turbo from the harness forward the ecu sensor wires all and finally success we even replaced the turbo which it kid of needed oil in the air intake RUNS great!! first test this week 3 state trip!
 

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